Topic: Oil change and clutch check

[bomorr]

Just did an oil and filter change on my 76 CB750 while I was doing that I decided to check my clutch disks to see how worn they were. clutch disks were within tolerance and disks weren't warped at all. So I deglazed the plates with some 220 and cleaned it all up. reinstalled and put new oil in (which by the way scared me because after I put 3 qts in the resevoir was completely full)
The oil was a 20-50 Castrol synthetic.
I used the kick starter to Cycle the oil through the motor about 3 complete compression cycles. started it up and took it for a quick ride and I noticed that it was more difficult to shift through the gears than normal but easier to find neutral now. I checked my clutch cable adjustment and everything seems to be correct. Is this normal right away after an oil change?

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[BomberMann650]

The type of oil does matter.  But it is best we not have this discussion 

[bomorr]

The type of oil does matter.  But it is best we not have this discussion 

yea I was really trying to avoid that
 I have been doing some research and found an old post by hondaman specifically saying not to use the v twin oil, which is what just used.... so I'll be doing a quick oil change when I get some spectro synthetic. That has to be the main issue here.
This is the first old CB750 I've owned so I'm still getting used to all the quirks of the ol' girl.

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[ekpent]

 Re check your oil now that it has circulated through the engine. Best time to do it is shortly after running. Should take a little more then 3 qts to the full line.

[bomorr]

volume of oil did go down after the quick ride just below full, it should be about 3.5- 3.7 qts right?

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[Handlebar]

I just did a end of season oil change on my 78 750F. Total oil replaced was about 3.5 to 3.7 quarts, I have been using Valvoline 10 w40 for 4 stroke motorcycles. Seems to be working good.

[BomberMann650]

The zinc content of valvoline and castrol ** is notably less than Honda's offering.  Thats what keeps me going back to the dealership for oils.


**conventional - haven't seen specs for synthe

[PeWe]

There are several threads about good oil, oil additives with ZDDP etc etc.
Red Line motor cycle oil has plenty of zinc, no more needed. That oil is not cheap but additives cost too.

Sure the clutch is working properly, clutch mechansim properly adjusted and cable is routed correctly?
Operate clutch is easy as before, shift gear feels different?

Last oil I used was a very cheap semi-synthetic motorcycle oil for cleaning engine after work. Clutch and shift gear worked Ok, but not as with the mentioned Red Line oil.

I'll use that cheap oil as burn in oil for the first 300km.