Author Topic: 76 CB550 Cafe build (Read 86378 times)

tshrey · « **Reply #150 on:** July 07, 2017, 06:55:34 AM »

Quote from: Lostboy Steve on July 07, 2017, 02:56:53 AM

Jesus Christ, another thread ruined by photo bucket.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a light day, I'm going to fix this today.

tshrey · « **Reply #151 on:** July 07, 2017, 08:29:27 AM »

Trying to fix broken links by using my google photos account. What syntax does this forum want for links to outside pics? I tried the '[img]' but that doesn't work.

https://goo.gl/photos/5Zc94ZWi2NY4jbpx6

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #152 on:** July 07, 2017, 08:58:33 AM »

Quote from: tshrey on July 07, 2017, 08:29:27 AM

Trying to fix broken links by using my google photos account. What syntax does this forum want for links to outside pics? I tried the '[img]' but that doesn't work.

https://goo.gl/photos/5Zc94ZWi2NY4jbpx6

It will be an imbed code or BBCode (what flickr uses) or something similar.

tshrey · « **Reply #153 on:** July 07, 2017, 09:22:19 AM »

For now I downloaded all my pics from Photobucket, cancelled my account and copied everything to imgur. In the long run I want the links to be something I can control so I will still want to link to my google photos account.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #154 on:** July 07, 2017, 09:43:13 AM »

Glenn posted elsewhere that the site can "host" the photos using the attachment (below) for each post. This will provide thumbnails which can be expanded by clicking on the photos. So that's an additional option other than just moving to google, flickr or imgur.

tshrey · « **Reply #155 on:** July 08, 2017, 01:34:05 PM »

Some progress today. Got the rear wheel all laced up and ordered bearings. I just love what these stainless spokes look like against the gloss black hub and rim.

Also, for any of you who own something other than a 40 year old motorcycle I can't recommend Vcyclenuts tuning enough. There are tuning options out there that will remove the fuel cut and other annoyances but they are hundreds of dollars AND you need to buy a power commander and tune that. Just give these guys your modifications and they will build in all the changes, including fueling, to your tune for $200. He also fixed the speedometer being over by 6%, made the fans come on at a lower temp and cleaned up the closed loop fueling. I have more power than ever, it is smoother everywhere and my mileage went from 32 mpg to 37 on the last tank of gas.

tshrey · « **Reply #156 on:** July 10, 2017, 07:40:19 AM »

When Honda lists an oring size are they giving outer diameter and thickness or inner? This is in regards to the rear wheel o-ring mentioned above. I can't find the original product without paying $25 shipping from europe, but I can get orings in whatever size I want.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #157 on:** July 10, 2017, 10:32:04 AM »

vcyclenuts offers a nice service where all you need to do is mail in your ECU and they will reflash and send it back (or even core exchange it).

tshrey · « **Reply #158 on:** July 10, 2017, 10:42:40 AM »

Yeah, the mail it/flash it/mail it back is what I had done.

Godffery · « **Reply #159 on:** July 10, 2017, 02:38:26 PM »

Quote from: tshrey on July 10, 2017, 07:40:19 AM

When Honda lists an oring size are they giving outer diameter and thickness or inner? This is in regards to the rear wheel o-ring mentioned above. I can't find the original product without paying $25 shipping from europe, but I can get orings in whatever size I want.

I can hook you up with one of those rear wheel o-rings and I'm in the US.

tshrey · « **Reply #160 on:** July 10, 2017, 05:28:13 PM »

How does one order from you?

Godffery · « **Reply #161 on:** July 11, 2017, 08:08:31 AM »

Quote from: tshrey on July 10, 2017, 05:28:13 PM

How does one order from you?

You can email me directly at jstephens7@wi.rr.com.

spatrucco · « **Reply #162 on:** July 19, 2017, 04:42:57 PM »

Hi, are you willing to sell the original exhaust?
I'm interested in the the number 4 pipe.
Thanks

S.

tshrey · « **Reply #163 on:** July 19, 2017, 04:49:04 PM »

The pipes were rotted away to nothing inside the covers. They were the first thing to get binned.

tshrey · « **Reply #164 on:** August 30, 2017, 11:31:21 AM »

Quote from: cantarauk on May 29, 2017, 10:24:33 AM

Hi Tshrey,

Here are all the components and bearings pulled from my rear hub for your reference. These are from a cb500 but should be the same as 550.

.

I'm going to turn the spacers out of a single piece of aluminum. If anyone has a set of these free can you measure the end to end length of the two pieces put together?

tshrey · « **Reply #165 on:** September 07, 2017, 07:15:27 AM »

After I get the garage rearranged I'll be ready to go to town!

tshrey · « **Reply #166 on:** September 11, 2017, 08:29:50 AM »

Rear axle spacers all done in aluminum. The outer spacers will get powdercoated. Stock steel vs aluminum.

tshrey · « **Reply #167 on:** September 13, 2017, 09:01:15 AM »

Installed the inner spacer and new wheel bearings from all balls and laced up and trued the wheel. The inner spacer is exactly (within 1 thousandth) the same size as the stock pieces put together, but when I pounded the bearings in flush to the outer race lip things are so snug I can barely turn the inner races by hand. I'm guessing they should be free turning, no? Not sure why I'm running into this unless the all balls center races are a tiny bit thicker than stock - they certainly stick out more than the outer races. Any suggestions?

tshrey · « **Reply #168 on:** September 29, 2017, 03:50:09 PM »

Finally a little progress. 592 pistons installed on rods. Setting the ring gap was a little strange, Dynoman's directions call for .010 on the top ring and .011 on the second. I had to file open all the tops a couple thousandths, but all of the second rings were already gapped at .015. Contacted them and they said to get it as close to what they recommend as I could so I just let the second rings alone.

Also turned an aluminum insert with an o-ring to close up the hole where the starter went. Have to cut it down a bit and drill a hold for the hold down screw that I tapped into the engine case.

tshrey · « **Reply #169 on:** October 05, 2017, 10:14:26 AM »

Got the cylinder sleeves on. Not as trivial as I expected, one of the pistons kept wanting to get crooked just past the oil rings and I though the rings themselves were holding things up. Didn't think about the bottom gasket sticking out, that green looks pretty ridiculous...

RAFster122s · « **Reply #170 on:** October 07, 2017, 04:40:09 PM »

You will need to back out that bearing...
Hopefully this can be done without destroying a bearing but...probably not.
The bearings are likely thicker. Yes they should have some free turning to them. If you do them like Honda recommends there is a bit of side loading on the race and this will wear out the bearing prematurely. (According to HondaMan, I once read where he shared that wisdom).
The spacers should engages the inner races only, not the outer races... This is likely not an issue since they are identical to stock.

I am surprised the outer races are not a bit larger than stock. Maybe Honda sourced some that were spot on. Often I've seen a few just a bit wider on some new bearings than the stock Honda. It only bites you on these kinds of applications for wheels.

Good luck sorting it out.
Very nice work.

That is a very nice Mill. how much did something like that go for and where did you find it? Did you have to refurbish it/rebuild it or was it in great shape and ready to go. That will be so handy for lots of things if you tinker with things like I do.

I once had a part made by a guy who had a mill and metal lathe in his workshop. Apparently he was a machinist his whole life. I took him a measured drawing of what I wanted made and the rubber insert and he machined up a nice part for me...taking into account the tolerances and use of the cup.
Was a starter cup using a readily available Miller brand starter insert, I was making a 1/2A engine (0.09 to 0.020) sized electric starter using a RC Car motor. Turned out nice.
Rarely used on the 0.020 which is actually a 1/4A size.

Very nice looking motor and pistons. Little bike porn...
You going to use a GPS equipped speedometer/tach unit? Then put a plug in the camshaft cover?

Green gasket, should be able to paint it with black paint before it goes in the motor with a fine brush... I don't think I would risk cutting through the powder-coating using a hobby knife. A scalpel is far sharper than a hobby knife you do want to trim it, but you will still see the green line.

David

RAFster122s · « **Reply #171 on:** October 07, 2017, 04:43:42 PM »

ARP fasteners...you've been watching Cal and drinking his koolaid I see...

NICE

tshrey · « **Reply #172 on:** October 07, 2017, 08:21:20 PM »

Got the bearing sorted. Found another thread where someone talks about how the bearing stack works on the rear wheel. The side with the threaded retainer is supposed to be seated in the wheel, the other side is supposed to 'float'. The sleeve for that bearing is pretty damn snug, not sure how much floating that side will do. Anyway, I put the axle spacer and the axle on the retained side and gave it two whacks with a hammer while I held the wheel suspended. That was all it took, both inner races turn freely. It was probably only tight by half a thousandth.

You don't even want to know what I paid for the bridgemill

Had a friend who started a business out of his one car garage and needed it gone. Gave him $300 for it. I'm getting pretty good using it, also have a four jaw chuck for precision work. Plan on a motogadget Chronoclassic flushed into the headlight bucket and a digital speedo off a magnet on the rotor. Already turned the plug for the camshaft...

calj737 · « **Reply #173 on:** October 08, 2017, 02:16:24 AM »

The Chronoclassic has a speedo built in. Also, its pretty large to recess into the headlight bucket if you're using a standard bucket. Their Chrono Tiny works pretty well recessed because of its size. FYI

tshrey · « **Reply #174 on:** October 26, 2017, 07:02:00 PM »

These wheels are going to be the end of me. Got the rim tape all done, had the tires mounted and balanced and after a day they were flat. Marked the tire so I could maintain balance and removed them. Let me tell you, taking a 100/90R18 tire off a 2.15 rim is a real #$%*. After they were removed I could see that when they threw the tire on the machine it drove the bead down so far it peeled the edge of the tape off. So I retaped it with 3m 4411 tape instead of the 4412 - it is about half the thickness and a lot easier to work with. Remounted front tire and got the bead set. Remounted rear tire and the bead wasn't even close enough to use air, had to pull out the ratcheting tie down trick. Anyway, the bead is mostly set but about a 9" section of the tire is still stuck down in the groove. It seals enough that it holds air and you can hear the bubbles screaming when you spray windex on it. My question is, how high in air pressure can I go to try to make this bead pop into the seat? I'm at 70 psi, bouncing the tire on the ground, everything I can and it doesn't move.

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Author Topic: 76 CB550 Cafe build (Read 86378 times)