Author Topic: 76 CB550 Cafe build (Read 86463 times)

calj737 · « **Reply #300 on:** August 25, 2018, 05:15:32 AM »

Remind us, did you re-torque the head after building the motor and letting it sit for 24 hours? If not, do it now before adjusting the valves.

tshrey · « **Reply #301 on:** August 25, 2018, 05:31:38 AM »

Only by accident since I had to pull the head back off to fix the orientation of the cam chain guide

Godffery · « **Reply #302 on:** August 26, 2018, 07:30:39 PM »

Quote from: tshrey on August 24, 2018, 09:09:07 PM

What keeps your Tach plug in place?

tshrey · « **Reply #303 on:** August 27, 2018, 05:19:16 AM »

Sheer force of will?

It is a really tight fit with the oring I machined into it, was going to ask how much actual pressure is in that area. I could always add a screw with a tab on it.

flatlander · « **Reply #304 on:** August 27, 2018, 05:33:34 AM »

i'd add a screw. not sure i trust a piece of alu to have much of a will of its own

tshrey · « **Reply #305 on:** August 27, 2018, 05:52:39 AM »

That would be ridiculous. It's MY force of will keeping it in place

flatlander · « **Reply #306 on:** August 27, 2018, 06:00:06 AM »

well then... i have nothing else to say than: may the force be with you!

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #307 on:** August 27, 2018, 08:20:30 AM »

Use it!

Godffery · « **Reply #308 on:** August 31, 2018, 01:14:07 AM »

This forum is always good for a chuckle!

tshrey · « **Reply #309 on:** September 04, 2018, 10:12:30 AM »

Engine is in the frame, have installed almost all of my ARP 12pt bolts. I did what Cal suggested and ordered some 10mm and 12mm stainless bar stock to make the long through bolts for the back of the engine. They are in the lathe now for thread cutting. Have to powder a couple things yet and then can assemble the front end of the bike. Going to start looking like a motorcycle soon.

calj737 · « **Reply #310 on:** September 04, 2018, 10:14:03 AM »

Looks yummy!

tshrey · « **Reply #311 on:** September 07, 2018, 07:31:27 AM »

Can someone tell me if something looks wrong in this pic (GSXR front end)? The first time I assembled the front end I used the thinner washer under the lower steering bearing but I don't remember having to use a washer on top. And I don't remember the bearing cup sticking out this much or the oil seal sitting like this. Could just be I never really looked at it, but I'm about to assemble the front end for what I hope will be the final time and don't want to have to take it apart again.

calj737 · « **Reply #312 on:** September 07, 2018, 08:41:13 AM »

That’s not correctly assembled. Is that the stock GSXR stem or the CB stem?

tshrey · « **Reply #313 on:** September 07, 2018, 08:44:44 AM »

SF · « **Reply #314 on:** September 07, 2018, 11:56:02 AM »

CB stem for CB frame

Cognito sells them

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

tshrey · « **Reply #315 on:** September 07, 2018, 12:36:42 PM »

The all balls bearing kit I used is for a gsxr stem in a CB550 frame. I do not need a cognito stem.

calj737 · « **Reply #316 on:** September 07, 2018, 12:49:28 PM »

Quote from: tshrey on September 07, 2018, 12:36:42 PM

The all balls bearing kit I used is for a game stem in a CB550 frame. I do not need a cognito stem.

True , the AB conversion bearings adapt the stem diameters. But, they do not account for the stem length differences.

You might pop Devin a quick email with the particulars of your components to get the proper sequence for installation.

tshrey · « **Reply #317 on:** September 07, 2018, 01:03:18 PM »

Not really the length I'm concerned about, that is easy enough to remedy (I already popped out the lower race and installed one of the washers between the race and the seat). It's more how the top race sits above the neck and the oil seal is just sitting on top of it. It will definitely seal it as is, but it seems like there should be a mushroom-shaped trim piece over all of it just to keep moisture off out of the frame/race interface.

tshrey · « **Reply #318 on:** September 07, 2018, 05:26:09 PM »

So from what I see on other swapped front ends this whole exposed bearing race and oil seal thing seems like that is just how it is...

I removed the upper race, masked off the inside and painted the outside with satin black paint before reinstalling it. I'm going to make myself a cap/cover piece that acts as a washer over top of the spanner nuts and extends cover the top lip of the stem.

tshrey · « **Reply #319 on:** September 08, 2018, 09:16:34 PM »

Got to spend a good portion of the day in the garage. I'm learning that cutting threads is kind of an art form, but I managed to get the two rear engine through-bolts made today.

I took Cal's suggestion of welding the nut on to the upper of the two bolts and then facing it. Looks freaking gorgeous.

Also got some powdercoating done. The breather cover had a web of corrosion too deep to just sand out so I did a trick I learned from my powder guy. Get a nice size pile of aluminum filings and mix them in with JB Weld. The JB will survive the baking and the aluminum matrix will give you enough conduction that you can't see a difference in the finish of the powder.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #320 on:** September 09, 2018, 02:03:37 AM »

Neat tip on the powdercoating and nice work on the bolt, almost looks like Cal did it!

calj737 · « **Reply #321 on:** September 09, 2018, 03:30:34 AM »

Nice lathe work! And you did a really nice job TIG welding that beforehand

When I cut threads on my lathe, I only make the first few passes with the machine, just deep enough to guide the die. Then, with the rod still in the lathe, I use a collet to hold the die, and press it on while the lathe is spinning down. That guarantees a dead square, centering of the die. I finish the threads by hand at that point.

You’ll notice those ARP fasteners have a loose, but strong engagement so it’s easy to get a really beautiful fit with them. I use some 0.024 316 wire to weld the nuts on. Doesn’t take much heat to get them to weld.

Yours looks really, really nice!

tshrey · « **Reply #322 on:** September 09, 2018, 06:58:47 AM »

You put the collet in the tailstock? I'm having a hard time visualizing what you mean. Any pics? That definitely sounds like a superior way to do it. Hardest thing I had was getting the beginning threads cut, the rod would deflect a tiny bit when the carbide first touches it. I have a shoptask so I have to cut threads in a funny way compared to a true lathe.

calj737 · « **Reply #323 on:** September 09, 2018, 10:08:12 AM »

My tailstock can hold a variety of tooling/fixtures. Expose the minimum amount of rod from the head stock, I often use a 6 jaw self centering lay precise round stock. For cutting threads on small diameter rod, I expose maybe an inch past the head stock, then cut. On my lathe, metric threads must be cut with the lathe remaining in gear to maintain timing. Once I’ve made a few passes to initiate the timing, I position the tailstock with a thread die, turn off the lathe and just push the tailstock to the end of the rod. The die grabs and starts threading on.

I only maybe push it on 2-3 threads before the lathe stops fully. Then I finish turning by hand with the die in the tailstock, pushing it forward to keep pressure on it while I spin the die with a wrench.

tshrey · « **Reply #324 on:** September 09, 2018, 08:09:15 PM »

My facebook feed reported that it was two years ago I uploaded pics of a sad, beat-up CB550 that I brought home on my trailer. I assembled everything that is done'ish' to document my progress. Two years sounds like a lot of time to not have finished a bike, but when I think of everything I've learned, done, fuc!ed up and redone it is a pretty great feeling of accomplishment.

Thanks to all that have helped steer me in the right direction, especially Cal.

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Author Topic: 76 CB550 Cafe build (Read 86463 times)