Topic: 76 CB550 Cafe build

[tshrey]

Your pic won't load for me.

[Godffery]

How about this one?
 https://godfferysgarage.com/wp-content/uploads/27072333_320340425140644_7041716569698117587_n.jpg
or:
https://godfferysgarage.com/project/custom-chain-guard/

[tshrey]

I'm still going to run the stock cover, it's already powdercoated I just don't have it on the bike in the pics.

[RAFster122s]

Second link above works, first one returns an error.

[Godffery]

I'm still going to run the stock cover, it's already powdercoated I just don't have it on the bike in the pics.

Ah, okay.  thought I'd check.

[tshrey]

Got my tray welded up and in place for the battery and starter solenoid this weekend.  Also got my Rick' R/R - it is the mosfet based unit that is made for LiFePo batteries.  It claims it does not get very hot - anyone have experience with it?  I could mount it underneath the electronics tray but it is pretty damn big and don't really like how it looks down there.  I would like to put it inside the tray, but that means under the seat with very little airflow.  I was considering cutting an air inlet flap in the bottom of the tray and an outlet at the back.

Also decided on how I'm going to route the exhaust.  I will take off most of the 2.75" section of the collector and weld in a stainless cone down to 2".  Then a slight bend and stubby straight section to mount a Leo Vince LV-10 canister.  I heard one on a cbr1000 and it was very subdued and it is very small (4" diameter at the large end, 6.4" long)



Cut a length of PVC pipe to show where I want to put it.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Are you going to have a rear fender/inner fender to keep dirt/water off the electronics tray? If so you may want to mount the RR upside down with a cut-out for the cooling fins.  It might be cooler where you are, but in SoCal I would not hide the RR in a small enclosed space with no air flow.

[tshrey]

So here is my solution: Inlet wing upstream of the R/R and and outlet hole behind it  Will probably stuff some air cleaner foam into those openings to keep the electronics tray cleaner.  Have my battery and solenoid mounted with the R/R, mUnit will go in that tray.  An mLock will go behind the battery tray on that carbon fiber fender liner.  Waiting on a wire order and I will be able to complete the charging part of the system so that I can run the motor longer and charge the battery.  I need to extend the starter motor wire and was going to try to splice in a second wire but I think more secure way will be to put a lug on the extension and just bolt the two together.  Also mounted an mButton into the upper triple for a start button.  Doing all my wire planning now. 

Silly question - how does one shut off the bike when using an mLock?  Is there a kill trigger in an mUnit that can be connected to a button or do I have to wind up installing a switch in the power line to the coils?

[RAFster122s]

Airflow tip, outlet needs to be about twice as large as opening...

[tshrey]

Tough to see from that pic,but that is about what I have. Also having the outlet right in front of the smooth fender liner should make for a low pressure zone to pull air out.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

So here is my solution: Inlet wing upstream of the R/R and and outlet hole behind it  Will probably stuff some air cleaner foam into those openings to keep the electronics tray cleaner.  Have my battery and solenoid mounted with the R/R, mUnit will go in that tray.  An mLock will go behind the battery tray on that carbon fiber fender liner.  Waiting on a wire order and I will be able to complete the charging part of the system so that I can run the motor longer and charge the battery.  I need to extend the starter motor wire and was going to try to splice in a second wire but I think more secure way will be to put a lug on the extension and just bolt the two together.  Also mounted an mButton into the upper triple for a start button.  Doing all my wire planning now. 

Silly question - how does one shut off the bike when using an mLock?  Is there a kill trigger in an mUnit that can be connected to a button or do I have to wind up installing a switch in the power line to the coils?

Very nice set up!

With the M-Lock, you will have a start button that will also serve as the kill switch.  The M-Lock will then be used to power on/off the system.

[river]

That hole in the intake is a bummer. Somehow I got one in mine too. I tried JBWeld but it wouldn't work for me. Hope you have better luck.

[tshrey]

Doing a lot of wiring the last couple days.  Starter wire is extended, alternator to R/R is done, coil wiring harness done and today I finished up the harness that goes to the tail/signal/brake light.

Also worked out a test of the rear brake.



That is just the stock actuator bent into a dogleg pulling on the stock arm flipped up vertically.  I really want to figure out a way to quickly disengage the brake lever to get it out of the way so I can make the bike a kick start only.  I'm thinking of making a stiffer rod and the u shaped linkage in the picture will be replaced by an aluminum end with a slot in the shape of an arc cut in it.  Normally the lever will make the bolt in that pic push against the end of the arc (toward the front of the bike) and pull the brake actuator forward.  When I want to start the bike I can lift the brake lever all the way up, rotating the bolt back through the arc until it falls out  of the linkage and the brake lever swings freely down to the vertical position.  Start the bike and rotate the lever back through the same path to reengage the linkage.  Wouldn't really every be able to rotate out accidentally, but just in case I could machine a hole to capture a spring-loaded ball bearing so that it take force to lift the lever out of its normal position.  This sounds like a good engineering project.

[algophobe]

not sure if this is what you're talking about the clearance for the kicker... but are you talking about swinging the whole lever back wards pivoting around the foot peg axis? i've seen them make a lever that rotates upwards and out of the way but only at the location of the lever were the rider's toe push down on. much simpler engineering. I thought cognitomoto did it or someone did. can't seem to find that link.

[tshrey]

The rearsets and pegs that I have are from Cognito, so I was thinking this would have been taken care of but there is no way to not hit the lever.  Devin's answer was 'the bike will usually start with only half a kick'.  That might be true but if you go too far you ruin the anodized peg set.  It isn't even the toe stub that it hits, it's the arm and it isn't even close.

This is definitely the most ghetto thing I have ever posted online, but it is the quickest way to show what I'm thinking.  Yes, as you said, the whole lever will pivot around the peg, up and over and then hang vertically out of the way.  To reengage, rotate it in the reverse direction.

[algophobe]

The rearsets and pegs that I have are from Cognito, so I was thinking this would have been taken care of but there is no way to not hit the lever.  Devin's answer was 'the bike will usually start with only half a kick'.  That might be true but if you go too far you ruin the anodized peg set.  It isn't even the toe stub that it hits, it's the arm and it isn't even close.

This is definitely the most ghetto thing I have ever posted online, but it is the quickest way to show what I'm thinking.  Yes, as you said, the whole lever will pivot around the peg, up and over and then hang vertically out of the way.  To reengage, rotate it in the reverse direction.

ghetto but crystal clear. the foot peg doesn't hit? i had the same discussion with Devin many years back and ended up chickening out and keeping old foot rests.  i didn't buy the partial kick answer either. why not just heat and bend the kicker? it's a dumb solution.. but i'm getting to understand you like to use engineering finesse. looks fun.

[tshrey]

The main peg flips up so that is out of the way.  I rigged up a test kicker to see what kind of bend it would have to have to clear the lever and it was pretty ridiculous.

[tshrey]

Got some of the parts for the exhaust.  Cut off the bulk of the Delkevic collector and welded on a reducer.



Next step will wait until I have the canister in hand, have to decide on how much of this elbow to take off to get the bend I want.



Wiring for coils is complete, have a couple of Revival cycle's nice connectors coming for the dyna s side down by the right peg and the alternator connection under the sprocket cover.



Rest of the wiring is coming along.  Starter connected, R/R wired up, rear harness made - using Mizu P25 waterproof connectors for all the 22 gauge wiring.  Next order will be a big one, mUnit blue, mswitches and mBlaze disc signals but at that point I can get almost everything wired and then drive the bike up and down the street.



Also, this is what I had to do to make the pod filters work for the CR26's.  I had about 1 mm of clearance with the frame on the right side and zero on the left, so I wound up cutting down the rubber connector several mm on the outboard pods.  Good clearance on both sides now.

[wolf550]

The main peg flips up so that is out of the way.  I rigged up a test kicker to see what kind of bend it would have to have to clear the lever and it was pretty ridiculous.

I had the same problem with the C type rearset brackets. even with the F kickstart lever it would still hit so I went to the passenger peg locations instead, but you do not have those anymore.
Since you are a great fabricator, you could try and fabricate a rear set brake lever that would swivel on the shaft and have some locking mechanism for when it is in the front position like the F type kickstart lever.

this has been a great build, keep it up.

[tshrey]

I think I've decided that the kickstart is just too much work. I wanted to get rid of the starter for weight savings but it is awfully convenient. The kickstart lever is 1.5 lb and the starter motor is 6.5 lb, so I think I will just take the lever off. If I can't use it anyway what is the point of having it on there? None of my other bikes have a kickstart (although trying to kick over a liter-bike might be a bit much). Looks like the rest of the exhaust is coming today!

[tshrey]

So this is the Alternator, starter and neutal/oil switch bundle coming out of the sprocket cover.  What are people doing to visually minimize this?  Cable ties to the frame upright seems pretty ghetto.

[RAFster122s]

Plastic covered bands that Honda uses on the wiring harness could be used but I haven't seen them used exposed such as in this area.

[wolf550]

was looking for this picture on pinterest where the wires were run through the inside of that tube framing up to the battery tray.
it was a clean look
whether it compromised the frame structure from the two holes I'm not sure

[tshrey]

Weighed the bike this week.  Everything on it except mUnit, switches and mirrors, full of oil, no gas.  340 pounds.  Pretty damn happy with that.  With the motor upgrades this thing should be a fun little scoot.  Finally got front rotor bolts (titanium, they're about the same price as ordering stock GSXR bolts that are dipped in ugly) and ordered a custom brake line from Hel.

The electronics get ordered Friday and then proper wiring can begin.

Cal recommended (and motogadget agrees) that 16 gauge should be used on the output side and 22 gauge on the input.  If I'm using mDisc blaze signals there is no reason I can't use 22 gauge for the output right?  The wires on my led tail light were even smaller than that.  I'm going to run 16 gauge for headlight & hi beam(that will also be led), horn and the clutch switch (I'm sending the ground wire for the starter solenoid through the clutch switch to prevent the bike from starting unless that is pulled in) and already have all the ignition and charging done with 16 gauge..  Everything else I was just going to run 22.

[calj737]

Blaze will be fine on 22awg.