Topic: Another '76 CB550F Survivor

[Smudgemo]

I'm nowhere close to finished on '76 CB550F #1 and just sort of cruising CL in SF and ORD/MKE and I find an ad for a bike just like the one I'm working on.  The tank looks close to perfect and the saddle just needs a new cover.  I'm even thinking the headers are relatively rust-free and the guy only wants $325 for the whole thing. 

I text my brother and ask if he'll drive an hour to get that stuff.  He suggests grabbing the whole thing, rents a trailer and only asks for me to buy him and his wife breakfast for the effort.  My arm is twisted and I decide to go for it.  Besides, these fools around here think these things are gold and I'll get my money back after swapping what I want to project #1. 

But then Hauls Bikes shows up and I start looking closely at what is close to a time capsule.  A little here and there that needs attention, but it really looks like the PO neglected maintenance for awhile and parked it 15 years ago, but never really chopped up anything except for ditching the gaitors so he could mount a wind screen.  Now I'm thinking I'll pause the #1 project and start figuring out if I can get this thing on the road.  The tires are old, the front brake is seized, the shift lever missing, the clutch and throttle are stiff, and I'm sure the carbs need attention, but it looks like it should run.  I'm also clueless as to why the gauge faces look like they do.

Anyhow, that's what I'm going to start looking at this weekend.  I haven't done a leakdown yet.  Should I expect a blown head gasket with the oiliness as shown on both sides or is that normal?

[jonda500]

Good score! I think that may be a 'K' seat apart from the stainless steel trims? The damage inside the speedo sure is mysterious!
The PO used gaff tape as fork dust boots?
John

[flatlander]

cool find, looks very complete.
also, cool brother. can i borrow him some time?

that oil... they do like to weep a bit but yours seems like a lot. i'd say clean it off, get the thing running (3k tune-up, carb de-gunking etc) and see what needs to be done. it may need a new gasket but it may also need other stuff. when you have a baseline you can do it all together.

[BomberMann650]

Sorry to say this man, but you got hosed.  Bike is junk, you better send it to me and I'll toss it on the pile with monkeyrocco's phony bimota 400.   

[calj737]

Yeah, clean up the fins and consider re-torquing the head to see if that will nip up the leak before tearing it down.

[Smudgemo]

Yeah, my brother came through and then stored it for a couple of months until we could arrange shipping.  I did him better than just breakfast, so we're square.

I'll probably focus on getting it running before spending time on anything else, but I am hoping to skip the tear-down this time.  Do I need to prep the nuts with PB or something before attempting to check the torque?  I also hope I can find something similar for a replacement muffler.  I like it, but it's looking like it's toast.

Yeah, duct tape.  The lower wipers (would you call them?) are split like he didn't pull the fork tube, but the uppers aren't, so who knows.  The tubes look good, so I'll probably replace the seals when I install new gaitors.  The left slider is oily, anyway.

How can I tell if the seat pan is the proper one?  I assumed this one was correct because it fit a lot better than the one from project #1 does, but the pans sort of looks the same at first glance.

[garyS-NJ]

Cool bike.  Getting cold around here and I can't give away my running xj550

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[540nova]

Cool bike.  Getting cold around here and I can't give away my running xj550

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I will take your xj550, where are you at? I am in Lumberton New Jersey


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[Smudgemo]

Leakdown results using 50lbs are:
1 - 37
2 - 11
3 - 48
4 - 9

I tried them all a couple of times and made sure I was at the proper TDC.  #1 plug looked oily, the rest brownish but well used and cruddy, and the PO must have torqued them with a breaker bar.  Just a bit of oil on the dipstick, but black and smelling of gas, I think.

Now what?

[calj737]

Change the oil and filter. Even consider dropping the oil pan for a close inspection of any gunk accumulated in there. Then get it fired up and make sure the valves are properly adjusted and run it some. See what comes of it-

[Smudgemo]

I guess so.  I can always put the engine from the first project in it later if this one isn't working well.

[Duanob]

Nice score I had just like it. I still regret selling it off.

I wouldn't worry about the leak down or compression test just yet. If it sat a a while the rings might be a bit sticky. Get it running first and do all the maintenance and carbs then ride the piss out if it, the rings will probably free up. The forks will probably need to be taken apart and cleaned and new seals if the gators are gone. Water tends to sit an seep through when they are removed. You got a sweet bike to start with.

[Scott S]

  A couple of years ago I scored a survivor, too. :   http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,126113.0.html


 I kinda hate I let that one go. No....I REALLY hate I let that one go.
 IMO, just make it go, stop and turn like it should. There are SO many bikes these days that are getting the Brat bike, cafe, custom, etc., treatment. They're only original once. Even if it's not exactly what you want, only make cosmetic changes and save the stock parts and document everything.
 You can make that a SWEET bike! Tune it up, maybe......MAYBE.....some 400F bars....stuff like EBC pads and shoes, stuff that's invisible but enhances the experience.....in the long rung, you'll be money ahead.

[Smudgemo]

From the pictures the seller sent me, I figured this would be a parts bike for my first project and all the lesser stuff would end up here maybe as some sort of mod.  But I'm not much for fashion or trends, and my first project doesn't really need much I can't get via ebay. 

This one came so complete that I'm just planning on making it run again.  I even found a complete tool kit in fine shape.  So far I removed the duct tape and wipers and I found the fork tubes are nearly perfect in the slide.  I also removed the rack and bent the rear turn signal mount back to straight. 

Anyone able to save me a search for  a good step by step how-to for cleaning the carbs?  I know I'm capable, but hesitant to tear into them w/o a proper tutorial.  They look original, so I'm hoping it's going to just be a good cleaning plus new o-rings and fuel lines.

[BomberMann650]

The f model carbs are pretty straight forward.  You can clean most of the passages without seperating the bodies.  Pressurized air and carb cleaner can at least get you runnin confidently.  Just remove the float bowls and you're in the action zone.

I didn't take much for photos as I was tearing down my spare A series carbs.  But trust me, the throttle linkage pieces are full of little springs and bearings and you may find yourself posting in the "pissed off" thread if you lose one to the garage gnomes.

[flatlander]

... and don't separate them if you don't have to. and you always never have to. saves you much trouble and cursing.

[Smudgemo]

I finally got back from a work trip, and started digging in on the carbs.  Not so bad.  I took #1 apart since it was the most gunked-up figuring I'd get the worst out of the way, but it all came apart easily.  I've got the bowl and jets in the carb dip, and I've been cleaning the rack of carbs with carb spray.  I need some better (and clean) brushes to get in the tight spots, and they are going to look great.  I'm going to order the Honda o-ring/gasket sets and reuse the brass stuff.  Figure I'll dig through the electrical box for some stranded copper wire to push through the jets.

Some questions:
1. I don't need to worry about the 1-2 3-4 hose connectors?  Can they be replaced if I don't take the rack apart?
2. Where should I get the fuel and vent lines?  I seem to recall reading something about being odd sizes?
3. Berrymans dip.  Should I limit the time stuff soaks in it?
4. My airbox plenum has a crack near the upper mount.  Fixable plastic or should I replace?

[flatlander]

1. I don't need to worry about the 1-2 3-4 hose connectors?  Can they be replaced if I don't take the rack apart?
> they can be replaced. it's a bit fiddly but we new flexible hose it can be done. but if they're not cracked then it's probably not necessary.

2. Where should I get the fuel and vent lines?  I seem to recall reading something about being odd sizes?
> fuel line is 5.5mm, 5mm also works. get some that is good for modern fuels.

3. Berrymans dip.  Should I limit the time stuff soaks in it?
> don't know that stuff, sure somebody else will chime in.


4. My airbox plenum has a crack near the upper mount.  Fixable plastic or should I replace?
> hard to tell without a pic.

[Deltarider]

In general, these carbs are quite easy to work on and I never had reason to separate them from the rack.

I need some better (and clean) brushes to get in the tight spots, and they are going to look great.

Don't overdo it and personally I would leave it like it is. Positioned in the windshadow of the engine the rack will collect dust again soon enough.

I'm going to order the Honda o-ring/gasket sets and reuse the brass stuff.

I have a complete set of new Honda O-rings and gaskets lying around, but I doubt I will ever use them. So far I've replaced only some little O-rings around the mainjets and some bowlgaskets. In spite of all the rough treatment they've received (trying to bring on new fuel lines), the O-rings that seal the T-joints still live. Yet if any gasket will start leaking, I don't know if I would use the new Honda O-rings I have. One could look around for viton seals as they're supposed to deal better with changing gasoline qualities. I've posted an article not that long ago where in you find explained why changing gas properties can become a problem for seals. After bike has stood for a long time like hibernation, you can expect some leakage that often will cure itself as soon as the O-rings have swollen again. Sticking floatneedles or needles that will not close completely is another thing to expect.

Figure I'll dig through the electrical box for some stranded copper wire to push through the jets.

That's what I recommend, you can twist the stranded wire somewhat to make it firm enough, yet the material it self remains softer than the brass jets. I wouldn't dare to use harder stuff like guitar strings. These parts get damaged easily when you use anything harder than what they're made of.
About the fuellines. If yours is a CB550F or CB550F1, standard length is 17 and 28 cm ⌀ 5,5 mm.
For some reason the CB550F2 had ⌀ 5,3 mm and had the tubes arranged differently. You may consult p. 31 in the CB550F2 Parts List found here: http://www.honda4fun.com/pdf_parts_list/pdf_spac550/CB550F2/CB550F2_2.pdf
In general when you use standard ⌀ you will not need clips to secure the tube ends at the T-joints, if you go wider, like ⌀ 6 mm, you will.