Topic: wiring a reg/rec CB550

[hashvm]

Hi all ..

It's winter time and I was working on one of the projects in the garage

I need to install a reg/rec unit on a 550 ..

I salvaged some of the original harness to use since I'm doing a rewiring but I'm a little confused

here's the part I'm taking about specifically



first question: should the orange thick wires be connected (go from one plug to the other)? or where should it connect to?

here's the breakdown of the plugs and tell me if I'm right or not ..

1-Furthest left in the upper picture



This should connect to the reg/rec unit but the orange shielded wire should connect to

2- the middle plug in the first picture



this should connect to the plug coming out of the engine right?

3- the last plug



Should I just eliminate this or where does it connect?

If I understand the wiring diagram right, I should just run the shielded wire straight from the battery's +, and use 3 wires from the third plug: natural, oil light, and the white should connect to the loose white on the reg/rec unit, and then I can jut eliminate the rest.. right? 

I guess I have to say that I'm using an M-unit so the solenoid would be powered through there instead of using the wires in the 3rd plug.

Thanks again

Hashem

[calj737]

Hi all ..

It's winter time and I was working on one of the projects in the garage

I need to install a reg/rec unit on a 550 ..

I guess I have to say that I'm using an M-unit so the solenoid would be powered through there instead of using the wires in the 3rd plug.

What brand and model of Reg/Rec are you using? (That would help a great deal).

Much of the stock plugs can be abandoned when using the M-Unit. Easiest to simply connect the 3 Yellow wires, the White and the Green from the stator to the R/R. Move the OIL and NEU wires (Blu/R and Grn/R) outside of this scheme, and run them directly to your gauges.

The R/R usually also has a loose Red, Black and Green. The Red goes directly to battery +, the Green to chassis ground, and the Black to LOCK or AUX.

[hashvm]

Hi all ..

It's winter time and I was working on one of the projects in the garage

I need to install a reg/rec unit on a 550 ..

I guess I have to say that I'm using an M-unit so the solenoid would be powered through there instead of using the wires in the 3rd plug.

What brand and model of Reg/Rec are you using? (That would help a great deal).

Much of the stock plugs can be abandoned when using the M-Unit. Easiest to simply connect the 3 Yellow wires, the White and the Green from the stator to the R/R. Move the OIL and NEU wires (Blu/R and Grn/R) outside of this scheme, and run them directly to your gauges.

The R/R usually also has a loose Red, Black and Green. The Red goes directly to battery +, the Green to chassis ground, and the Black to LOCK or AUX.

Cal,

It's an Electrosport unit, but it only has a black and white loose wires. with the red being integrated into the plug.

the plug on the unit fits the original rec plug so my plan was to connect the stator to the big plug and connect the reg/rec to the old rec plug and run the natural/oil lights separately as you said.

As wiring on the unit goes, it seems like they have red and green on the plug providing + and GND for both the reg and the rec.

their description for the white and black wires is really confusing they have it listed as:

BLACK: Original sense input for
regulator
WHITE: Field output for alternator

here are a couple of pictures of the unit and its plug




thanks again

[calj737]

I swap the loose White into the plug in place of the Red. Then run Red directly to the battery + terminal. The loose Black needs to be connected to LOCK (well, not "needs" but is best) so that it can monitor the status of the battery under switched mode. The Black informs the Regulator to allow more or instruct less voltage to be sent to the battery.

Reconfiguring in this way you can eliminate the stock plug connectors on the side panel and simplify your layout. You only need the m-unit, the RR, and a solenoid. Solenoid is powered from START output of the m-unit and the other thin wire goes to ground.

[hashvm]

I swap the loose White into the plug in place of the Red. Then run Red directly to the battery + terminal. The loose Black needs to be connected to LOCK (well, not "needs" but is best) so that it can monitor the status of the battery under switched mode. The Black informs the Regulator to allow more or instruct less voltage to be sent to the battery.

Reconfiguring in this way you can eliminate the stock plug connectors on the side panel and simplify your layout. You only need the m-unit, the RR, and a solenoid. Solenoid is powered from START output of the m-unit and the other thin wire goes to ground.

If I swap the white and red, where the white is connected to the orange shielded wire (which run to the straight to the +), wouldn't be the same as if I just kept it as is and connected both the loose white and the shielded orange to the positive terminal?

Sorry I know it's a lot of questions but I'm just trying to grasp it 

[calj737]

It is sort of. For the record, that's not an orange wire, it's red sheathing that has faded. The White wire serves the field coil in the stock configuration and runs through the regulator. The Red wire in stock plug doesn't come from the stator at all, it's re-routed through the plug connections to the battery ultimately. So my suggestion is essentially running it straight as it "functions".

See the attached diagram to more clearly see what I'm saying:

[Bodi]

Green is ground, must go to good solid connection to the frame.
Black is power to the regulator, must go to fused and switched ignition-on 12v power (NOT directly to battery +!).
Red is rectifier output, must go to battery + with no fuse.
3 yellows are rectifier input, must connect to the stator output 3 yellow wires.
White is field coil power from regulator, must connect to one field coil wire. The other field coil wire connects to ground.

[hashvm]

I looked at the diagram cal provided and it makes sense to swap red and white cables if I was connecting the unit straight to the stator, but my unit already has it's connecting plug molded to fit the rectifier plug with the two loose wires to be connected to the loose wires that plug into the old regulator.

I see how this works now, thanks all for the help 

[calj737]

Yeah, since you're using the m-unit, I always ditch the stock panel and connectors and reconfigure for simplicity.