Topic: CB350F Oil Pan replacement screws

[Dos]

Hey guys,

Gonna change the oil for winterization and realized I have never cleaned out the sump in the 3-4 years since I have owned her.
I want to do this but my oil pan has one scew that's been snapped off and holding it in there.

I want to get to my sump and get a new gasket but I know more screws are going to break especially in this cold.
Does anyone know where to get new screws?

[Flyin900]

Look at a Honda parts fiche for the correct lengths and they are more than likely 6mm flange bolts and not screws. Those should only have about 8ft lbs of torque, or the spec may be also listed in inch pounds, which is equivalent of a good hand tight twist with no ham fisted gorilla stuff.
So they shouldn't be really tight to begin with and if you have a heat gun and can't run the bike to warm it up apply some heat to the bolts first. If there is just a stub with the head off on the broken bolt then once you get the rest out and remove the pan you may be able to grab the stub with some grips and remove it.

They are 6mmX40mm flange bolts for 11 pcs on the pan. You can still get them from Big Red, or any bolt place that sells metric flange bolts.

[Deltarider]

Dos, if it is not leaking and you have no special reasons to expect something, you might as well leave it alone. I've opened the sump of mine not that long ago after over 50.000 kms and like the previous inspections (at 80.000 and at 40.000) there was nothing in the sump pan but oil and the oil strainer screen well have a look...
I didn't even bother to clean it of those few speckles. 

[jonda500]

I have pulled the sump off my project 500 3 times since I got it going. The first time I found so much crap in there the screen was almost completely blocked! The second time I still found an alarming amount of crap in there (pictured). I think it's mostly the dampening material from the camshaft sprocket but I can't believe how much I found after already thoroughly cleaning it till it was spotless the first time (I removed the rest of the material off from the sprocket). I replaced the screen as well the second time. The third time I removed it I still found a small amount of particles in there - probably nothing to worry about but I just had to look again after being horrified with what I found the first two times!
John

[Flyin900]

Always worth having a look since it could be pristine as in Delta Riders, or full of clutch material or other crap. If you don't know the history on the bike and who does on 40-50 year old stuff; I would pull it to fix the broken bolt at the least and have a look.

[Dos]

Yeah I want to just want to make sure I can bolt it back together lol

I thought there would be an Allan head bolt replacement kit out there

[Flyin900]

Don't use Allen head as you may be tempted to put too much torque on the caps when tightening. Can't see them anyway so what's the use; a flange bolt is the correct bolt and gives you a better head coverage of the oil pan surface vs a cap bolt.
The bolts may feel really tight when removing and that is because the steel bolt has chemically bonded into the aluminum case. For the few bucks it costs for a set of 11 flange bolts I would replace all of them with fresh bolts. Use anti seize if you are planning to keep the bike and if not use it anyway, as the next guy will thank you for the easy removal of those fresh bolts that didn't galvanize into the case.

[Dos]

Just ordered the bolts and looking for a gasket now..

I have a feeling there will be stuff in there. My cam chain smacks around alot and my clutch is funky.. It clunks down to first causing the bike to move alittle lol. When the bike is rolling a tiny bit there is no clunking down to first.  Sometimes when I try to bring to second at certain accelerations it wont let me shift and will start clacking pretty violently and it vibrates to the shifter, I feel it.. So i am sure there is stuff in there.. Removing the gunk doesn't help the engine in anyway though right? the sump just collects it.

[Dos]

Can I use the same gasket that's been on there?

[Dos]

just gonna get this http://4into1.com/ne-brand-oil-pan-gasket-cb350f-cb400f/

[Flyin900]

Use a new gasket as it isn't worth the hassle of doing again, so 4into1 is a good source for the replacement gasket.

Make sure you get both surfaces nice and clean. I use an aerosol chemical carb cleaner when I dont have the Permatex gasket remover handy and a 3M scrubby. The trick is to spray the chemical material into a small container and use a small paint brush to apply a few coats of your chemical on the bottom oil pan cover sealing surface and the lower case area. Let it sit for a few minutes and put some chemical on the scrubby and be sure to wear gloves and start to scrub away. Reapply your chemical again and let sit and scrub and usually after a couple of treatments you have nice clean surfaces with no scraping or gouging of the surface material with metal tools. Pull off any large pieces of gasket if they are reasonably loose to begin with before you start the process.
I will also spray the new gasket with an aerosol copper gasket spray to assist the gasket in sealing, although this isn't necessary and just my OCD.

It also sound like you need to do a cam chain adjustment for sure and the clutch isnt set right if the bike creeps in first gear with the clutch disengaged. These should be looked at ASAP as leaving them will cause damage especially the cam chain being too loose. The cam chain is normally adjusted with the engine idling at 1000 rpm and loosening the adjuster bolt on the front of the engine case. This will only work if the adjuster horseshoe in the lower engine case isn't stuck or damaged from years of neglect. Worth a try as it is self adjusting if working correctly.
The clutch has an adjustment and spec noted in the service manual that you adjust the locking nut and screw adjuster per those instructions on the side case of the motor first and then fine tune the adjustment via with clutch cable adjustment on the handlebar.