Topic: Introduction and CB400F winter project questions

[bobagby]

So, I figure now is as good a time as any to introduce myself since I have a question. I'm from the St. Louis area, been riding motorcycles for about 17 years, but this is my first time rebuilding a project bike from the ground up. Proud new owner of a 1975 cb400f and having some pretty good progress on my winter project. It's completely stripped to the frame and ready for paint. Engine has been scrubbed down and is looking pretty. Carbs were rebuilt by a friend of the PO who is an expert, so I trust them. all parts necessary to get it running have been ordered from ebay and 4into1. It's about ready to start putting things back on, just waiting on a wiring harness. 

Sorry if I'm being an insufferable noob here, but I am in fact a noob. I'm sure my questions have been probably been addressed as topics before, but since the search function does not function and I've tried every iteration of the google site: search, I am throwing in the towel and asking my questions.

Question 1:
Rear brake actuator arm:
 As I am going through making an inventory of needed parts and whatnot, I come across the rear brake actuator arm which is broken at the rod end. Looking through 4into1 and ebay, I am finding that this part is virtually impossible to find unless you want to pay dearly for it. Just wondering, what is the interchangeability of these actuators from one bike to the next. Could I use a cb550 actuator arm on my bike without causing any issues? I understand mechanics and realize that the length of the actuator arm is going to have an impact on how well or poorly the brakes work.

Question 2:
Stock air intake parts.
I thought about going the Pods route, but like I said, I'm a noob. I just want to get it running first and then worry about aesthetics later. Anyway, there's a tunnel that goes from the air filter to the air chamber and it's another one of those things that's impossible to find. I found one on e-bay but it's in England and would cost an arm and a leg to ship to the US. But,  I work with a guy who's got a 3D printer in his office. The part itself is metal, but since its job is simply to carry clean air from the filter to the chamber, would it be a big deal to get one fabricated out of plastic on the 3D printer?

Anyhow, if you made it this far, thanks for taking the time out of your day. I guess my real question is "Where can I find those hard to find parts?"

I look forward to your responses,
Jon

[calj737]

Welcome, Jon.

Bookmark this site:
http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb400f-super-sport-400-four-1975-cb400fk0-usa_model444/partslist/

This will help you identify assemblies, locate original part numbers, perform cross model searches, etc...

To answer your question about the rear brake arm directly, it uses a different part number than 550s, but the splines are probably the same. Yours is used on other bikes, 450s, some 500Ts, etc. Easiest to locate someone parting out a bike than snatch it up. Else, you may source a 550/500 and modify your brake rod slightly.

Sourcing hard to find, or no longer in production parts is part of the fun of a 40 year old vintage bike. The parts are around. Just got to scan the For Sale section, keep an eye on Craigs List for junk/project bikes, and post "Wanted" items in the proper section. Plenty of folks here have these little treasures tucked away waiting to help someone out. 

[MoMo]

Welcome.  There is a good chance I have what you need in my pile of spares...Larry

[MikeSimon]

Are you talking about the rod or the actuator arm on the drum?
The actuator arm is the same as on the CB550K or XL175.

[bobagby]

Are you talking about the rod or the actuator arm on the drum?
The actuator arm is the same as on the CB550K or XL175.

It's the actuator arm on the drum that bolts onto the spindle and gets pushed/pulled by the rod. I'll be expanding my searches to look for 550 arms now. Thanks

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Also, thanks to cal for the one stop link for parts reference. That is super helpful.

MoMo- if you have either of the previously mentioned parts, shoot me a price and we can talk about it.

Thanks, guys

[MikeSimon]

Check whether this looks like the one you need:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/76-HONDA-XL175-REAR-BRAKE-ARM-LEVER-/401041911058?fits=Model%3AXL175&hash=item5d5ff5ed12:g:KPMAAOSwZ1lWb0A2&vxp=mtr

[MoMo]

Is number 5 what you need?

http://www.motogrid.com/OEMpartfinder.htm?aribrand=HOM#/Honda/CB400FA_(76)_SUPER_SPORT_400_FOUR,_JPN,_VIN%23_CB400F-2000001_TO_CB400F-2008280/AIR_CLEANER/CB400F-76-JPN-A/2Y243770AF24377008A

[calj737]

Are you talking about the rod or the actuator arm on the drum?
The actuator arm is the same as on the CB550K...

Not according to the factory part numbers. The 400 does not share the part number as the 550. It does with the 500T, 450s, and maybe the 175. But check the part numbers for definitive clarity when crossing models.

[bobagby]

Is number 5 what you need?

http://www.motogrid.com/OEMpartfinder.htm?aribrand=HOM#/Honda/CB400FA_(76)_SUPER_SPORT_400_FOUR,_JPN,_VIN%23_CB400F-2000001_TO_CB400F-2008280/AIR_CLEANER/CB400F-76-JPN-A/2Y243770AF24377008A

Pretty sure #5 is the one. Your link didn't send me to the right pic, but it's #5 on the air box assembly blowup. I think it's called the air duct guide.

Is number 5 what you need?

http://www.motogrid.com/OEMpartfinder.htm?aribrand=HOM#/Honda/CB400FA_(76)_SUPER_SPORT_400_FOUR,_JPN,_VIN%23_CB400F-2000001_TO_CB400F-2008280/AIR_CLEANER/CB400F-76-JPN-A/2Y243770AF24377008A

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[MoMo]

Is number 5 what you need?

http://www.motogrid.com/OEMpartfinder.htm?aribrand=HOM#/Honda/CB400FA_(76)_SUPER_SPORT_400_FOUR,_JPN,_VIN%23_CB400F-2000001_TO_CB400F-2008280/AIR_CLEANER/CB400F-76-JPN-A/2Y243770AF24377008A

Pretty sure #5 is the one. Your link didn't send me to the right pic, but it's #5 on the air box assembly blowup. I think it's called the air duct guide.

Is number 5 what you need?

http://www.motogrid.com/OEMpartfinder.htm?aribrand=HOM#/Honda/CB400FA_(76)_SUPER_SPORT_400_FOUR,_JPN,_VIN%23_CB400F-2000001_TO_CB400F-2008280/AIR_CLEANER/CB400F-76-JPN-A/2Y243770AF24377008A

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I'll check tomorrow to see if I have an extra, also fairly certain I have the actuating arm...Larry

[MikeSimon]

Not according to the factory part numbers. The 400 does not share the part number as the 550. It does with the 500T, 450s, and maybe the 175. But check the part numbers for definitive clarity when crossing models.

it is a moot point, if Larry has the part, but my records show part-numbers  43411-362-00 which is 1973-75 XL175 and
43411-374-000, which is CB550 1974-76. what do you have?

[MoMo]

I searched but only found one air box sleeve which is needed for my last 400 resto.  Cannot find a brake arm even though I am sure I have a spare somewhere.  Too much stuff.  I've been on a mission to sell or give away unwanted bikes/parts.  Anyone want a 77 400f frame?....Larry

[RAFster122s]

Larry offer it up on the 400/450 build that is putting a CB500X motor in the fframe.  You might have a buyer.  The CB500X motors go for about 650 but you really need a wrecked bike.  Putting feelers out with local insurance companies or cb500X and CR500 owners if a dealer would share the info on owners. 
Buying on ebay would be an expensive route given lack of EFI and similar needed parts, radiator etc.

[RAFster122s]

CBR500R instead of CR500...

[bobagby]

Thanks for all the good info, guys. I am having the duct fabbed on a 3d printer and I found a reasonably priced brake arm on ebay. I'm also going to kludge a backup brake arm from the old broken one I have in case I have any issues with the replacement I am getting.

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[bobagby]

So I broke a bolt putting the oil sump back on today. Any words of wisdom or advice? I have an ezout for 6mm bolts, but damn, it never felt like it was getting snug enough to stop cranking and then the bastard snapped.

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[flybox1]

Yeah....happened on my 550 oil pan. 
I prefer left handed drill bits to easy outs.  Much cleaner.

[bobagby]

Yeah....happened on my 550 oil pan. 
I prefer left handed drill bits to easy outs.  Much cleaner.

I'm becoming an ezout magician.

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[DaveBarbier]

Carbs were rebuilt by a friend of the PO who is an expert, so I trust them.

Don't trust PO's or their friends for that matter. Ever. Verify what was done or you'll likely be chasing your tail if/when you have running issues. Generally, you always want to keep the OEM brass bits (jets, needle, etc.) unless they're damaged. And even then, buy new OEM parts. Most of the time, the brass just needs cleaning.

Yeah....happened on my 550 oil pan. 
I prefer left handed drill bits to easy outs.  Much cleaner.

I'm becoming an ezout magician.

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I've used EZ outs and they really only work for bolts, like yours, that snap on the way in. The bolts that snap on the way out are the one's that I'd avoid using an EZ out on. But still, as Fly mentioned, left handed drill bits are amazing!

Welcome!

[RAFster122s]

you have to buy a good quality ez-out or you have something stuck in there that can't be drilled.
Snap-On, Matco, and a few others make decent Ez Outs but having a good sharp Left Hand Drill bit would be the better solution... Having several for common sizes on our bikes is a smart thing to have on hand.

There is an old mechanics trick for removing corroded fasteners where you immerse the part in a pot of hot paraffin wax on a double burner setup outside on the grill...  Cook it for about a half hour and after it has cooled down some in the hot wax you pull it out with your well insulated gloves or tongs and cinch it up in the vice to work on the stubborn bolt. Then give it a few good whacks on the end before starting and then see if it won't release its grip. The wax is able to work its way into the threaded part and makes it yield much easier before it breaks the bolt off  or stud off.

Hot Paraffin wax is very flammable and a huge burn hazard.  So, no grease and water in the part... preheating it in an oven to drive out the moisture is a good idea if it has been in water.   Grease, you know how to degrease...followed by acetone wipe down.

David

[bobagby]

I got Inez fired up yesterday. Going to take her around the cul-de-sac later on when it warms up a bit outside.

 Question: what's the cheapest battery I can throw in there to start her up if I plan on primarily using the kicker?  I will eventually get the "correct" battery, but for the sake of diagnosing and fixing problems and dialing in the tuning while she's in the garage , I just need something to give enough juice for that spark to get her going. I've been using the riding mower battery and big gator clips, but if I take her around the neighborhood and stall out I'd rather not have to push her home.

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[calj737]

A Scorpion AGM. <$60

[MoMo]

A Scorpion AGM. <$60

that would be my suggestion too.   Great battery for the price...Larry

[bobagby]

Thanks for the info. I just thought about it and am going to put myself in time out for not just googling the info myself. Bad forum poster! You all should have hit me with a LMGTFY for that one.

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[bobagby]

I apologize if i'm double posting, my last post appeared to fail.

So, I have taken Inez out for a couple adventures in the neighborhood. We've gone all the way to the end of the street and back. The first couple times she stalled out under power and carb overflow #2 was puking fuel. So I administered some percussion therapy with the butt of a screwdriver and problem solved. Took her out a couple more times and she still sputtered under load. I clutched and revved to get her going again a couple times, had to push her home a couple times. Seems to be getting better with each trip, but still losing power under load. Also, I might just be getting better at feathering the throttle.

First thought was fuel starvation, so I opened the fuel cap and got the same result. Sputter under load.

I'm not an irresponsible owner, but her air filter is not currently attached during the diagnosis and trial period. I currently have a lint free towel jammed in the black box. Would this be the issue? Like, too much air getting in?

Thanks for input in advance.
Jon

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