Author Topic: Paint job on tank  (Read 1148 times)

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Offline Shtonecb500

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Paint job on tank
« on: December 09, 2016, 08:25:37 PM »
Paint job on 550 tank - Boss Maroon
Would it be better to strip the tank raw, clear coat it, sand it rough, and paint over that. Wouldn't that provide better protection?


let me know.

Im going to buy the boss maroon in rattle can and use 2k max clear coat.

I really love the rough look though, I think the scars look good against some very rich old color.



« Last Edit: December 09, 2016, 08:27:16 PM by Shtonecb500 »
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Offline MoMo

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Re: Paint job on tank
« Reply #1 on: December 09, 2016, 08:29:32 PM »
Not a paint expert but for that tank to be smooth you'll need to remove all the paint.  2K makes a good primer as well as their clearcoat.

Offline palepainter

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Re: Paint job on tank
« Reply #2 on: December 09, 2016, 09:49:59 PM »
You don't want to use clear as a primer.  If you sand the paint back to metal, you will want an epoxy or direct to metal acid etch primer before you paint.

Offline RAFster122s

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Re: Paint job on tank
« Reply #3 on: December 10, 2016, 12:32:44 AM »
Palepainter,  I think he meant SprayMax maxes a good 2K primer and clear, as opposed to a 1K paint system. 
A enamel, lacquer, water or solvent based paint is normally classed as a 1K paint system.
A 2K is a 2 part urethane ( highly toxic) paint system with SprayMax's innovative hardener/activator within the charged cylinder of the can's bottom.  Be certain that you take proper precaurtions against skin contact as well as breath and eye protection from the 2 K paint or clear. SERIOUS health issues or even death have occurred failing to take those precautions, during spray or even cure but far mor violatile when spraying.
David- back in the desert SW!

Offline Katana2665

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Re: Paint job on tank
« Reply #4 on: December 17, 2016, 03:10:45 PM »
In an ideal world, you want three spray guns, one for primer, one for color and one for clear. Superior cleaning of the spray gun is essential to get a non contaminated mix.

Acrylic Lacquer is very easy to use and dries well. Best temp to spray should be above 55-60F  if you are spraying outside without a booth or heat lamps.

PPG has a nice system, but there are many others out there.

When spraying metal, you'll want a metal etching rust proof coat, followed by a primer. Then it's a matter of "x" number of color coats followed by "X" number of clear coats.

Fine sanding between coats followed by cleaning the dust (wet sanding) ensures each coat layers properly.

Also the psi you spray with primer is different than color as well as the way the paints are mixed for good flow.

Waiting anywhere from a week to a month before clearcoating as well as optimal times between coats is important as well.

That's a basic overview of what I remember from when I spray auto paint a decade ago.

I'm currently restoring and rebuilding a private motorcycle collection and next year I'll be back to spraying.