Author Topic: Harley hub with gsxr forks (Read 5814 times)

JohnDRitter · « **on:** December 26, 2016, 12:47:03 PM »

Doing a fork swap on 1975 cb550F. Front end is from 2006 gsxr 1000. Hub/wheel is from mid to current 2000's dyna, 19"X2.5". I got the forks mounted to frame with all balls bearing kit. Also got 2003 gsxr 750 rotors with enough "meat" in the center for drilling holes for the harley Rotor pattern. Once I get these rotors mounted and utilize the non-offset rotors to center me up how would you go about correcting the hub spacing on the axle? Aluminum spacers? Using the harley wheel bearings cause they have a 25mm ID and punching out bearings is almost as fun as punching teeth. Also should I be worried about re drilling these rotors and having less material? Could I weld up the stock holes?

BomberMann650 · « **Reply #1 on:** December 26, 2016, 02:13:18 PM »

Do you have close up photos of the harley wheel mounted on the axle?

My concern would be getting the brake rotors in alignment with the calipers, then develop a spacer for the gaps.

JohnDRitter · « **Reply #2 on:** December 26, 2016, 05:11:42 PM »

Yeah, I'll take one once I get back into the shop. Also can anyone confirm the dimensions of the harley wheel bearing # 9276A

754 · « **Reply #3 on:** December 26, 2016, 06:08:36 PM »

Welding up holes in a rotor carrier, usually turns it into warped junk.
Why would there be an issue with pulling bearings. ?

JohnDRitter · « **Reply #4 on:** December 26, 2016, 08:02:56 PM »

True, Didn't think about the heat. I would need the proper tool. Wouldn't be able to punch these out with a drift. Don't have enough gap when the spacer is pushed over.

turboed13b · « **Reply #5 on:** December 27, 2016, 01:46:30 AM »

If they are 25mm then just leave them but they were only used on 08 and up. Older years used 1in and have to be changed.

JohnDRitter · « **Reply #6 on:** December 27, 2016, 07:43:37 AM »

yeah I mic'd the ID at 24.96mm. Does .4mm (25.4mm-1inch) really affect the fitment that much though?

turboed13b · « **Reply #7 on:** December 27, 2016, 04:38:59 PM »

Quote from: JohnDRitter on December 27, 2016, 07:43:37 AM

yeah I mic'd the ID at 24.96mm. Does .4mm (25.4mm-1inch) really affect the fitment that much though?

Yeah it wobbles on the axle.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #8 on:** December 27, 2016, 05:17:32 PM »

Here you go mate, this tool will pop those old bearings out in a minute, for $14.42. I bought the complete kit, but all you need is the one tool and a long handled screwdriver, and a hammer:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motion-Pro-Replacement-Wheel-Bearing-Remover-1-Inch-Black-For-Harley-Davidson-/231460265997?hash=item35e41b600d:g:dCsAAOSwLzdWT6pQ&item=231460265997&vxp=mtr

Cheers, Terry.

754 · « **Reply #9 on:** December 27, 2016, 07:37:18 PM »

.4 mm is 16 thou...1/64 of an inch..
Dink in shirtsleeve clearance, in MachinistSpeak....

Not seeing how that collet expands.. No lip either, is it threaded on not shown end for slidehammer ?

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #10 on:** December 27, 2016, 11:30:07 PM »

Quote from: 754 on December 27, 2016, 07:37:18 PM

.4 mm is 16 thou...1/64 of an inch..
Dink in shirtsleeve clearance, in MachinistSpeak....

Not seeing how that collet expands.. No lip either, is it threaded on not shown end for slidehammer ?

It's dead simple frank, and works a treat. The collet sits inside the bearing race with it's bottom on the garage floor. From the other end you insert a long wedge (an old flat blade screwdriver will work) and tap it into the slot in the collet until it feels "firm". Hold the wheel vertically and wack the end of the wedge and the bearing pops out. I've used mine several times and it works better than any bearing puller I've ever used. Cheers, Terry.

JohnDRitter · « **Reply #11 on:** December 28, 2016, 10:27:41 AM »

yeah that looks like a neat tool. I should be safe though. I wish I had a chart that showed harley wheel bearing dimensions through out the years. The bearing says HD9276A on the seal. Any one have access to get more info on that number besides google? Thanks.

754 · « **Reply #12 on:** December 28, 2016, 10:48:44 AM »

That does sound simple, but makes me wonder why the bottom is so big ?
Poor man in a hurry trick #64
Weld a piece flat bar across the inner bearing, or weld in a nut..then DRIVE-R-McGYVER....

JohnDRitter · « **Reply #13 on:** December 28, 2016, 10:57:09 AM »

haha yeah done that! but man, if these are 25mm to begin with im not touching em!

754 · « **Reply #14 on:** December 28, 2016, 11:00:59 AM »

I am think a lot of guys probably just run the setups with that clearance,, not knowing any better..
God protects the unnformed....

JohnDRitter · « **Reply #15 on:** December 28, 2016, 03:06:48 PM »

also need advice with a master cylinder. The forks came with radial calipers with 2 pads each side. I would prefer a coffin style master cylinder and not the pee cup style. The only info I can find on the stock MC is a chart saying it has a 3/4" (19.5mm) bore. does that mean I can possibly find a 19mm nissin MC or something similar?

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #16 on:** December 28, 2016, 06:07:37 PM »

When I replaced the MC's and hoses on my Honda VTR1000 I went cheap and bought a pair of MC's from Ebay, my logic being, "If they work, great, if they don't, I haven't invested much in my failure". The good news is they work perfectly, only took 5 minutes to bleed up, and on my first ride, I accidentally pulled a "stoppie". (lifted the rear wheel) Not bad for $31.72 for the pair. They do sell just the brake MC too, for just $15.48. Cheers, Terry.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-8-UNIVERSAL-MOTORCYCLE-HYDRAULIC-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER-CLUTCH-LEVER-RIGHT-NEW-/281440264963?hash=item418725a303:g:11cAAOSwKIpV-7ns

JohnDRitter · « **Reply #17 on:** December 28, 2016, 09:17:34 PM »

i just want to make sure my MC bore size works well with the Tokico calipers. theres a ratio between the two that creates a sweet spot. I dont want to grab some brake and have nothing happen until BOOM(too big MC). also dont want to have a lever that hits the grip (too small MC).

turboed13b · « **Reply #18 on:** December 28, 2016, 11:07:55 PM »

Quote from: JohnDRitter on December 28, 2016, 10:27:41 AM

yeah that looks like a neat tool. I should be safe though. I wish I had a chart that showed harley wheel bearing dimensions through out the years. The bearing says HD9276A on the seal. Any one have access to get more info on that number besides google? Thanks.

That is a 25mm bearing sounds like you have a midglide hub?

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #19 on:** December 28, 2016, 11:48:42 PM »

Quote from: JohnDRitter on December 28, 2016, 09:17:34 PM

i just want to make sure my MC bore size works well with the Tokico calipers. theres a ratio between the two that creates a sweet spot. I dont want to grab some brake and have nothing happen until BOOM(too big MC). also dont want to have a lever that hits the grip (too small MC).

Yeah, mine are 6 piston Tokico's, I think the piston size is on that Chinese MC is 14mm, but I don't know for sure. Cheers, Terry.

JohnDRitter · « **Reply #20 on:** January 09, 2017, 10:34:28 AM »

update so far. Definitely making headway. PROS: Forks mounted, fabbed up a new stearing stop for the head tube, wheel bearings turned out to be 25mm so no need to remove, got my nifty collared 5mm spacers for the radial calipers to fit 10mm wider rotors, and got my rotors drilled and mounted on the hub. CONS: Harley hub measures 5" wide (127mm) and GSXR wheel is 128MM wide from rotor mounting face to face. so that means my rotors are .5mm too narrow inside the calipers. its resulting in a bit of drag. what a drag! (Dad joke of the day) Im really surprised how closely the pads hover above the rotors. What amount of drag is acceptable? I pushed pistons back into caliper and re clamped on rotors and same result. I ordered some (.4mm) .016" X 5/16th round shims to sandwich between the rotor and the hub. next on the list is to get shims installed, install wheel. Clamp on brakes to center wheel. Place shouldered axle against left bearing race and tighten things up, then measure gap between right bearing race and other fork bottom to get me my spacer measurement. photos coming soon.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #21 on:** January 09, 2017, 02:24:57 PM »

Good work mate, the only thing that worries me (and you too I'm betting) is moving the disc rotors away from the hub with spacers. Usually you'd have custom full width spacers made to support the rotors for their entire circumference, not just "washers" behind each bolt hole, which won't support the disc as well as the shoulder of the hub did previously, and could lead to the discs warping, binding, shattering etc. do you know anyone with a lathe or a mill who could make you some full width spacers? Cheers, Terry.

JohnDRitter · « **Reply #22 on:** January 09, 2017, 07:46:25 PM »

i see your point. but surely the rotor flexs naturally more then .5 mm with or without spacers? Im baffled that .5mm even makes the wheel drag in the first place. Shouldnt those pads be spaced out more then that? id be worried using inconsistently thick pain old washers but im using machined .016" thick SS shims.

JohnDRitter · « **Reply #23 on:** January 09, 2017, 07:59:56 PM »

maybe i need to rebuild the calipers?

63SSRagtop · « **Reply #24 on:** January 09, 2017, 09:32:16 PM »

Interesting read! I'm doing a CBR600RR front end on a 77 CB750 and its been bugging me cause I wanted the bike to have spoke wheels.. Did see where there are sometimes clearance issues between the calipers themselves and the spokes but you didn't have any issues there it seems?

Haven't given up on the idea personally yet but cannot get my hands on CR450 wires or any other wheels local that I could measure...

Curious to how the spacers with work, I'd think a solid larger spacer would be better than singles for the .5mm...
Dig this build though!

News:

Author Topic: Harley hub with gsxr forks (Read 5814 times)