Topic: CL350 electrical gremlins....help!

[Scott S]

 Got the '73 CL350 basket case assembled and installed a brand new, freshly charged battery this morning. I've run across a couple of electrical head scratchers and could use a little guidance.

 1) The lights all function as they should EXCEPT the LH turn signals. The RH signals light up bright and flash properly. But when I turn on the LH signals, they're dim AND the headlight and tail light flash along with them. I've checked the connections and don't see anything wrong. Installed a new mechanical flasher.
 I'm wondering if it's the handle bar switch? Could something in there be causing this? Where else should I look?

 2) Gave up on that for the day and tried to adjust the points/timing. The light stays on and the points are hot ALL the time. Makes zero difference where the timing marks are, whether points are open or closed, etc. New points, condensers, caps, and plugs. Coils are original but ohm'd out good.  Checked connections around the coils, condensers, etc. Checked the Black/White wire in the headlight bucket. Checked to make sure points wires are not touching the plate. What else should I check here?

[calj737]

The Left Turn issue has to be the handlebar switch. Only reasonable explanation or harness is "stock".

Pamco, Baby. Pamco. 

[Scott S]

 Harness is stock. And the Pamco is looking attractive right about now.

[Scott S]

 And to clarify, this is how I'm (trying) to adjust the points/timing. My test light just stays on always.

[Scott S]

Another thing I plan on tracing out this morning (ran out of time last night) is that I noticed that I had the BLACK wire from the front brake switch plugged into one of the 4-way GREEN ground wire housings. Thought maybe that had something to do with it, so I switched it to BLACK. But then the brake light didn't operate. Put it back in the GREEN and the front brake switch works. That makes me want to check that one GREEN ground wire receptacle. Make sure something funky isn't going on there.


 I also noticed that if I continued to rotate the engine that my test light would eventually go out. Makes me wonder if I have the points cam installed 180 degrees out? I ran out of time last night and I really need three hands to test some of this stuff. I'll try to work on it today if I can get some help.

[Scott S]

 Hot on  the trail!!!

 I found out I have the aftermarket tail light wired up wrong. It came unlabeled and I figured I'd get it sorted once I have a battery. That, I believe, was keeping a "hot" circuit in the turn signal wiring. I now have it wired correctly, I think, but I managed to damage the BLACK multi connector in the headlight bucket. I have one from the donor harness and it still has the plastic protector on it. BUT....I need assistance soldering it together. I just can't hold everything and work in such a tight space. Maybe later today once my GF gets home we can get it repaired and test my work.

 Also, I had the cam on the advancer out 180 degrees. It's fixed and I now have the test light coming on and off when it's supposed to.....or, at least close enough that I can time it. Still need to adjust the points/timing but, again....not enough hands and I need to repair that BLACK power wire in the headlight bucket.

 I'll report back later.

[eigenvector]

Sounds like you're figuring it out - better than I've done that's for sure.  Ask me about the time I about shot up the neighborhood because my trailer lights were doing the exact same thing your turn signals were doing the day before I had to take a cross-state trip.   Solution - poor ground connection fixed and the whole thing worked like magic.

something that I picked up a while back to help when I don't have the 4 arms I need - https://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Magnifying-Glass/dp/B000RB38X8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483026565&sr=8-3&keywords=hobby+helping+hands

I dumped the base, and just used the 2 clips and the bar.  Helps hold things in place so that I can focus on soldering.  Only thing that has to be corrected though - the alligator clips are WAY Too sharp - they cut through 16 Ga insulation like butter.  I wrap them in duct tape first.

[Scott S]

 Sorted out the tail/brake light wiring. It's an aftermarket unit that I picked up in the swap meet at Barber. I was able to test it out using jumpers to the battery and now having working as a tail and brake light when either brake lever is used.

 Got the timing/points set.

 Double, triple and quadruple checked all the connections in the bucket and inside the LH control switch. Even made jumpers for ground on the LH signals, straight to the frame. Still exhibits the same symptoms; dash bulbs, headlight and tail light flash with LH signals.
 Then, we noticed a secondary "click" when the turn switch was turned on AND after it was turned off. It was coming from the LH side of the bike, down low. Perused the diagram and the ONLY thing down there that shares any power or ground that would be going to the lights is the reg/rec unit.
 I installed a new Sparckmoto combo regulator/rectifier and wired it up just like the one on my '71 CL350, but there's definitely something going on down there. The BAD news is that I have to remove the exhaust just to get to it.....GRRRR!!!!

[Scott S]

OR.....  the more I think about it, maybe that's just a safety switch in the reg/rec I hear and the problem is in the RH control? All power must run through the RH control. The LH control is just switches and ground for the horn.
 

[Scott S]

 OK....the "clicking" was the battery tender going on and off, not the reg/rec.  (totally red faced about that one).

 Traced wires, plugged and unplugged connections, made jumpers to ground, battery positive, etc., etc., etc.
 As of this writing, everything is working as it should except the signals. No more flashing dash, headlight, etc. The next chance I get, I'll try a modern, electronic, 3-prong flasher and start trouble shooting the turns again.

[calj737]

OK....the "clicking" was the battery tender going on and off, not the reg/rec.  (totally red faced about that one).

 Traced wires, plugged and unplugged connections, made jumpers to ground, battery positive, etc., etc., etc.
 As of this writing, everything is working as it should except the signals. No more flashing dash, headlight, etc. The next chance I get, I'll try a modern, electronic, 3-prong flasher and fix my turn signals.

FTFY 

[Scott S]

 I'm glad you're so sure!

 I wasn't going to mention that Cal coached me through most of this over the phone until I had resolved the problem, but I probably wouldn't be this far along without him.
 He's confident, I'm just bumbling along, still.... 

[calj737]

You're right, I am confident you're just bumbling along!  Damn, spit espresso out my nose just now 

[540nova]

Calj737 is one of the guys that make this a great place. He's a very generous, knowledgeable gentleman.


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[calj737]

Calj737 is one of the guys that make this a great place. He's a very generous, knowledgeable gentleman.

I don't know about that...  (See what I did there?)

[Scott S]

You're right, I am confident you're just bumbling along!  Damn, spit espresso out my nose just now 

 I'm not too proud to admit it!
 At least I learn a little something every time.

[Scott S]

Installed a new LED 3 prong electronic flasher and had the same symptoms.
 Once again, I called on CalJ to help do some more tracing and he figured out that the diode is in the regulator and I'm somehow getting bleed by between the LH and RH sides.
 I'm using LED bulbs everywhere except the headlight. One thing I noticed is that the turn signal indicator in the dash has never lit up. He suggested unplugging the LIGHT BLUE and ORANGE wires from the dash indicator. When I did that, everything works as it should!
 For now, I'll just leave that circuit unplugged. I can install a diode inline to the dash indicator and it should work but, at this point, I'm OK without having a turn indicator in the dash.