Topic: To those with ultrasonic cleaners

[eigenvector]

So I bought one a while back, took a bit for me to get it hooked up and all that.

Don't know if this is normal, but it came with zero documentation.  This isn't a HF ultrasonic, it's a 5 gal model.  But it doesn't really need a manual - set temp, set time, off it goes.

The bit that has me a bit concerned is how loud it is.  This things sets your teeth on edge when it's in operation.  It is an "ultrasonic" cleaner, so you expect vibration at least.  I was expecting gentle vibration - not ear shattering harmonics (I'm exaggerating, stand back 5 feet and you can't really hear it).

But more importantly for me - is how long should you set them for when cleaning a carb bank?  I can easily put an entire rack in the unit - but the timer only goes to double digits.  So at the most 99 minutes ~1 1/2 hours.  Is that long enough to clean a carb, even if the water is 160F?

[Thekramer666]

Depends on what your using to clean with like if I was using the green degreaser it's not going to hurt anything if I leave it in too long but I'd check after a lil while and if they need more then have another go at it, have fun

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk

[Don R]

 Mine isn't too loud, I can't quite get a rack of carbs in it. I guess they need to come apart anyway. I agree try a set time and check. Adjust accordingly.

[eigenvector]

I suppose that's all I can do.

I think I made a mistake getting a huge one.  The dang thing takes 5+ gallons of water to fill.

Incidentally - do you think the ultrasonic will hurt rubber diaphrams (needle slides) and the like?  It's not like I'm using carb cleaner as the medium - just 5 gallons of distilled and 1/2 gallon of Simple Green.

[RAFster122s]

It makes a buzzing sound and the one I have was around $60 and it isn't a 5 gallon model for certain... maybe 2.5 quarts...don't recall.  Mine only runs for about 15 minutes and generally heat is not a bad thing.  I have to basically have it going and work on something else while it goes until it times out.  Wierd thing is heat continues without ultrasonic so you can heat solution then start.  My manual indicates to not run heater non stop.  Not sure why.  I just alernate cycles one with and one without. I usually run it for 30-45 minutes and by then it is pretty dirty even if the carbs had been sprayed clean with carb cleaner.  So, dump and put in fresh batch of distilled water and Home Depot Purple Simple Green.  It is more friendly to aluminum than the green formula.  Reality is it is better to buy an industrial ultrasonic from a reliable company known for ultrasonic cleaners.  That being said my HF unit has done well for me...

[ekpent]

  On my cheapie Harbor freight on some carbs I did recently because they were so varnished I went with real carb cleaner/dunk first to get that off and then ran the carb bodies through the ultrasonic with some simple green because I had an extra jug mixed 50/50 with water and a little shot of Dawn for only 3 cycles or so of 180 seconds each. Not long at all. They came out very clean and shiny. I put hot water in to start to save time etc because the heater is slow but heat is important. Put a piece of tin foil in one sometime and see the perforations if it is working correctly. Because of that I would be a little leery of putting in any expensive fragile rubber diaphrams. On some CX500 carb tops I put in there once it started taking the clear coat off the aluminum.

[eigenvector]

Noted, I'll leave the diaphrams out of it then.

Based on what I'm hearing there's no problem with time - doesn't sound like soaking it overnight is a requirement.

I'll be cleaning my Nighthawk carbs while I wait for the replacement alternator shaft circlip to arrive.  Since it's so big I can just put the carbs in plastic bags and clean them all at the same time.

[Steve F]

It won't hurt rubber diaphragms, as they just bounce the sound waves off.  I would be leery of placing hard parts in contact with others as they can vibrate strong enough to start to erode on each other, needle jets and other finicky parts like that.
Oh, and KEEP FLESH OUT. don't be tempted to place your fingers in the solution as it's vibrating.
Heat is good, but avoid using any volatile solutions. 

[ekpent]

 Good to know on the rubber. Did not see any problems on some bowl gaskets. I had read that you could put the cleaner in a jar and submerge the container in the machine and tried it with some carb plate screws in a plastic one and it worked nicely . Pretty cool stuff.

[eigenvector]

I put in my test parts to see what to expect.

No before after shots - carb bowls and vacuum chamber tops. 

it took about 30 minutes to clean them, nothing stellar, but the vacuum chamber caps were pretty bad castings and awful plated chrome so it would have taken a miracle to get them to shine.  The carb bowls look clean, the gunk has been removed, except in the really really tight spots near the drain.  I suspect not enough fluid could move down there.

Any rate, I have the carb bodies in there now.  In a half hour I'll take them out and see about getting a before/after shot.  They weren't awful to begin with, but the enrichment circuits were all mucked up, so as long as they get cleaned out all's good.

4 gallons of water and 2 quarts of Simple Green 30 minutes at 45 degrees Celsius.

[ekpent]

  Sounds yummy,making me hungry !!

[MoMo]

I have the HF model. Once it comes up to temp it usually takes several  cycles to clean using one third distilled water, one third cleaning vinegar and the rest Krud Kutter. Mine is not loud...Larry

[eigenvector]

Well for what it's worth here is the before and after shots.

Not bad for 30 minutes

[RAFster122s]

Put some tape over the holes for jets and air passages and glass bead the outer bodies for a nice finish that makes them look great.  Or spring for Nils to vaporblast them for amazing results.

[RAFster122s]

Are you using the green or purple formula Simple Green.  I use the purple at about 50% concentration.  The purple is a lot more aluminum friendly than the green.
Does the manual tell you to use that much liquid or are you just filling it up ?
 Staining, but the glass beading or vapor blasting make them look better than new.
A brass brush or stainless brush on the exterior can help the finish with some of the

[ekpent]

 Hmm - my Harbor Freight put that nice iridescent sheen back on some CB750 carb bodies I did recently.

[eigenvector]

No, just plain old Simple Green.

had no idea that it would harm aluminum.

As for the how much water - well the instructions talk about filling the tank between two imaginary fill lines on the side.  I'm not sure what lines they're referring to - so I had to squint while looking at lofty 2 page manual.

4 gallons puts it about 3/4 of the way up the side.

Comments about making them 'shine' 
Making these carbs shine would be like putting lipstick on a pig.  I just want the idle circuits to work - looking pretty, HAH!

[eigenvector]

You piqued my curiosity about Simple Green.

Great - "do not use on aluminum".

I'm not too worried, it's pretty heavily diluted - like 12 to 1.  But now I know not to use it.

[Steve F]

According to Simple Green website, use on aluminum is fine if you limit the exposure to no more than 10 minutes, followed by a complete and thorough rinsing.  The say it is used even on aircraft, but caution is necessary to avoid corrosion later on.
MOST carburetors are NOT made of aluminum any way, but rather die cast in ZINC, so following the instructions for Aluminum may not pertain to carburetors made with Zinc.
 

[eigenvector]

I didn't know that about zinc.  I suppose it makes sense - easier to cast, and cheaper too.

[RAFster122s]

The corrosion from it being so alkaline is the reason to keep it dilluted to not more than 50% solution and lots and lots of water.  Yes they are a cast die metal which is often a zamac based metal which is primarily zinc but also contains aluminum , magnesium, and copper.  But it is possible the carbs are zamac 3 which is 96% zinc and 4% aluminum.  There are many formulas of zamac, at least 6 I know of.