Topic: new welder Q?'s

[Don R]

 I sold my Lincoln invertek power supply and ln17 wire feeder and I'm in the market for a small package welder, Miller or Lincoln probably, I'm thinking one of the 110 / 220 multi process machines. mig/tig/stick  I have a miller 250 synchrowave ac/dc tig already but a smaller package that I can take to the race track and not have a big footprint in the shop would be a plus.

 Any opinions on these new machines or other brands to consider?

[J-Rod10]

http://store.cyberweld.com/mimu200auelw.html?utm_medium=shoppingengine&utm_source=googlebase&cvsfa=2530&cvsfe=2&cvsfhu=6d696d753230306175656c77&gclid=CjwKEAiAqozEBRDJrPem0fPKtX0SJAD5sAyHJnaxGsy2plkf_XnWi4kWpmPiFMTT_nuxE0IhPjfqYxoClY3w_wcB

Spectacular little welders. At 29lbs, makes hauling around a breeze.

[Davez134]

I have a Miller 211 that fits what you're looking for (especially if you want the 220 option) It is 110/220, can be set up for gas or flux core (portability/outdoors) and has a small footprint. Only downside is it's MIG only, and I'm not sure of your budget, but it is around $1,000. Hours

[Davez134]

J-Rod linked to last year's model, here's its replacement. Less expensive, smaller and this company (Indiana Oxygen) has the best online prices and service I've found
https://www.weldingsuppliesfromioc.com/miller-multimatic-215-auto-set-multiprocess-welder-with-tig-kit-951674

Damn! Ive been out of the purchasing game for a while so I haven't been looking, but that thing looks awesome! I think that one is exactly what Don described.

[Don R]

 That's exactly what I'm looking for. I found the Lincoln version that's similar but doesn't include the tig torch. I sold my old Lincoln invertek and ln7 feeder, it was too big and industrial for my needs.

[Don R]

 In the meantime I was given a Hobart 110V mini mig that may need a new gun, (probably never been cleaned out) or just a fresh liner and wire. I've been using CO2 but for sheet metal I may go to a mix so it will cool things off a little better.

[Don R]

 The local airgas has the Lincoln multi process for $1175. A big $20 discount for my good customer deal. There is a chance to get a miller racer deal if you run decals and advertise for them.  We run NHRA and race a series so that's a possibility.  With the tig rig, foot pedal and relay to install in the unit it's just over $1800.

[Bankerdanny]

Eastwood has a new mig/tig/stick machine and several videos at their YouTube channel about it.

I have one of their MIG welders (the 135) and have been very pleased with it.

[2wheels]

In the meantime I was given a Hobart 110V mini mig that may need a new gun, (probably never been cleaned out) or just a fresh liner and wire. I've been using CO2 but for sheet metal I may go to a mix so it will cool things off a little better.

I expect this is a newbie dumb question.  But I read this and wondered , can I use CO2 in place of argon for my MIG welder?  I only used flux core so far.

[Don R]

 We run straight Argon to tig chrome moly and aluminum on the race cars. Arogn with a purge on food grade thin stainless tube. I've used c02 quite a while on mild steel, it runs hot splatters more and requires a closer to perfect "tune up" An Argon mix is more forgiving.
 Welding pipe I used a tri mix of argon/co2/oxy I never understood oxy, I always thought the idea was to remove o2 from the weld.

[Don R]

 For some applications welders are doing dual shield, flux core and a shielding gas. I'm not sure what the advantages are.

 I got a Hobart welder 120 handler mig for free. The PO said it just stopped feeding wire and the local welding shop gave them a huge estimate to repair it. I found the mig wire had a couple loops around the spindle behind the spool. I corrected that, blew out the liner and got new contact tips. I found an adapter to hook up my co2 bottle to the regulator and Voila, it welds pretty nice even on co2. The lower volt settings seem too low to use but that may be due to low input volts where it's plugged in.

 The ground clamp is a big deal on a mig and this one is in bad shape. I put a piece of copper tube on the spring to tighten it up and screwed a piece of copper over and to the hot side of the clamp for a contact piece. I saw on a welding video you can use a copper ground strap like the Harleys or old cars used for the battery to chassis ground or even clamp over a piece of stranded wire.
 I'll buy a nice clamp at my next opportunity.