Topic: First Honda, 73 CB500

[PsyKottok]

Hi there!

I just picked up my first Honda! I'm usually dealing with Kawis or Suzukis, so this is a slightly new venture for me, also the oldest bike I've owned.

I didn't pay too much for this bike, thankfully, as I think I need to just turn it into a barebones rider. As in, kickstart only, no turn signals, no electronic hand controls, no instrument cluster, that kind of thing.

First thing is, the bike will not start without a jump. Runs fine once started, but battery is straight drained if the bike dies again. I'm thinking r/r may be the issue, but I haven't looked yet. Also, are there any components I need to add if I were to do away with the battery all together? Just run it kick only?

[Deltarider]

How old is the battery? Charge it with 1,2 A maximum. Then leave it disconnected for some time. If after 4-6 hours voltmeter doesn't read at least 12,6 V, battery is too old to hold charge and should be replaced. It's no use for us going through other points before the quality of the battery has been established. Having said that, you could connect a voltmeter (a cheap DMM will do) to the + and - of the battery with the engine running and see if voltage rises at a higher rpm. Looking at your pics, may I suggest you clean the terminals and also check for solid connections? Please report back.

[b52bombardier1]

Maybe it's just me but my 72 CB500 is quite cold natured and would be a major chore to kick start on a cold day. So think carefully before getting rid of the battery. However, this bike kick starts easily after it is warmed up.

  I'm also not sure if your stator would like it very much.  The battery is a big part of the proper operation of the regulator / rectifier - battery provides the load.  With poor voltage regulation, you could also be burning out lamps all over the bike.

Rick 

[calj737]

You can't eliminate the battery for "kick only". That is a function of the stator, not the battery. You definitely need to troubleshoot your charging system fully before making any further modifications.

The 500 properly tuned and properly setup carbs kicks on just fine. Opting to run "kick only" is fine, but if you're determined to remove the starter motor, you'll need to plug the case. This doesn't really get you much, but it can be done.

[grcamna2]

Welcome to the forum PsyKottok.

[BomberMann650]

Welcome to sohc4 

Cool bobber.  +1 whats already been said.  There are batteryless conversion kits available.  But is it worth it...unless zombies?

If you're looking to improve on the bike, I'd start with removing the fuel filter and the excess fuel line making that giant loop.  Don't garbage the line though, Keep the excess in the toolbox for spare 

[PsyKottok]

Thanks guys!

I spent gobs of time today working on the old goat. Found the problem, the insulation on the 12v and ground on the rectifier had worn off, causing shorts and corrosion. Needless to say, the wiring harness was already hacked to shreds, hand controls non-functional, so I stripped all the wiring back and redid it. Barebones, just a headlight, no gauges, a tail/brake light, and whatever is needed to make the bike move. Local shop didn't have a replacement separate regulator and rectifier, just could order new ($140). I ended up grabbing a mystery honda one (6 wire unit) and rewiring it to work for this beast. Also snagged a sportbike starter relay which worked out quite well. No keys for the bike either, ignition switch was shot, so I picked up an O'Reillys universal one. I did need to get a new battery, it had been sitting a while, on a constant heavy drain it was shot. I've got a few kinks to work out, I had the neutral light working correctly, but when I buttoned everything up, it stopped working. I'm waiting on a new set of push/pull throttle cables. Idle is a bit weird. Really long throw on the clutch, might just need new a cable, i've got it backed all the way out already. Left side (#1?) carb leaks I think the float is stuck or just needs new bowl gasket. Also a bit of backfiring from the left 1/2 of the motor. Oh, and the oil leak between the head and block, ugh the worst.

Bright side, insurance is 1/2 of what I was paying for my KZ1100 

[PsyKottok]

Welcome to sohc4 

Cool bobber.  +1 whats already been said.  There are batteryless conversion kits available.  But is it worth it...unless zombies?

If you're looking to improve on the bike, I'd start with removing the fuel filter and the excess fuel line making that giant loop.  Don't garbage the line though, Keep the excess in the toolbox for spare 

Oh yeah, I also did that too, dude had two filters on it, and about a mile of plumbing  It was causing a massive air bubble to form in the long line. Cleaned that up really easy.

[BomberMann650]

Makin good progress!

Clutch could be out of adjustment forcing the cable to pick up the slack.
Just a guess - I don't know the 500's clutch.

Put a clear tube on the overflow from the leaky carbs and you'll know if its the float level or the bowl gasket ezpz.

[calj737]

Probably the clutch pushrod is broken and the adjuster cam needs lubrication. That's the slotted item on the left side cover. The pushrod runs laterally through the motor under that cover. Very common for it to break. Rare as hen's teeth to find new. Also, there's a single steel ball bearing beneath there.

[jonda500]

When I replaced my 2 piece (broken) push rod and the seal, I actually noticed no difference in the clutch operation... it fixed the oil leak though
John