Author Topic: K3 Project has now started. (Read 34587 times)

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #175 on:** August 13, 2017, 09:22:58 AM »

That and the smell of plumeria and pikake in a breeze.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #176 on:** August 15, 2017, 08:14:26 PM »

Putting some stuff together. For my steering head bearings I had to leave out the spacer they sent, made for too loose a fit for the headlight ears. Races went in fairly nicely. Still waiting on my paint for the engine.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #177 on:** August 16, 2017, 03:24:57 PM »

Man, these are tedious to prep for painting!!

MauiK3 · « **Reply #178 on:** August 16, 2017, 03:29:15 PM »

For those that want to take the carb rack apart......
I had trouble with the little tiny cotter pins on the choke linkage, hard to find. The washers were easy, 5mm. The pins are about .046". I don't have them yet but I ordered them from Grainger. If they work out I'll pass on the part number to anyone interested.
Actually, I'll have extra, you need 4 and I think I had to order 50.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #179 on:** August 16, 2017, 07:52:30 PM »

This was a bit labor intensive. 3 sessions with paint remover, wire brushing by hand and with the dremel, 45 minutes in the ultrasonic, lots of cleaning with solvent, lots of taping. It came out ok I think.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #180 on:** August 16, 2017, 07:53:31 PM »

Finished product

MauiK3 · « **Reply #181 on:** August 16, 2017, 07:57:29 PM »

There's a short video on that one post but it doesn't seem to load. Here is a still of the paint turntable, courtesy of my most supportive wife.

HondaMan · « **Reply #182 on:** August 19, 2017, 08:27:29 PM »

Quote from: MauiK3 on August 16, 2017, 07:53:31 PM

Finished product

Nice hand-masking!

MauiK3 · « **Reply #183 on:** August 20, 2017, 12:47:14 PM »

Cotter pins for choke linkage
I have not been able to find any "Honda" parts for this so I went looking. I checked the hole size with my number drills, the drill that passes through is a #56 drill, or 0.046". It fit loosely but a #55 would not go in. The #55 is 0.052".
I ordered Grainger part 5UU54, cotter pin, 3/64" diameter x 1/2", pack of 100 for $2.22.
They would not go in the hole because they actually aren't quite round. The caliper says they are 0.046 across opposite the split but a bit larger diagonal to the split. Also, the holes may have had some corrosion.
I took the 55 drill that fit and ran it through the hole a few times to clean it up and they work fine now.

budman · « **Reply #184 on:** August 20, 2017, 01:13:05 PM »

They do still make them. I bought some OEM cotter pins for my bike. They're so thin I had one slip through and I lost it. Got a piece of doubled over mig wire in there now doing the job at the moment.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #185 on:** August 21, 2017, 09:57:55 PM »

So back to clear coating.
The one part that I used two part urethane on that seemed to work was the fork lowers. Then today I went to do some assembly. I noticed that there was whitish corrosion under the clear. What I think caused it is part of the process. Before you coat the instructions tell you to wet the bare metal with the etching liquid for a few moments and rinse in pure water. I used reverse osmosis water. What I think happened is that it all did not get rinsed out of the pores and caused corrosion.
I stripped it all off, rebuffed and coated with Duplicolor clear. We'll see how that works.

HondaMan · « **Reply #186 on:** August 24, 2017, 08:26:39 PM »

I discovered yesterday that I am out of the sleeving for the Fuseblocks, had to order some more. It will be a short delay...

MauiK3 · « **Reply #187 on:** August 24, 2017, 11:12:35 PM »

No worries, I still have plenty to do. I'm working through fasteners, etc. I'm also getting the forks together. Ordered a set of seal drivers, screwed up a seal, had to order more seals. Installed some decals, put the center stand together, worked on the steering. There are so many details!!
I ordered the calipers and associated stuff for brakes.

HondaMan · « **Reply #188 on:** August 27, 2017, 12:28:58 PM »

Quote from: MauiK3 on August 24, 2017, 11:12:35 PM

No worries, I still have plenty to do. I'm working through fasteners, etc. I'm also getting the forks together. Ordered a set of seal drivers, screwed up a seal, had to order more seals. Installed some decals, put the center stand together, worked on the steering. There are so many details!!
I ordered the calipers and associated stuff for brakes.

Got the jacketing, sent the kits out yesterday.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #189 on:** August 31, 2017, 09:04:56 AM »

Mark
Parts came in while we were off island for a little getaway. A bunch of other stuff came in as well, I can make some progress now.
Very nice looking stuff!
Thank you
Steve

MauiK3 · « **Reply #190 on:** September 04, 2017, 02:15:51 PM »

As I slowly fit things together, since I have some time, I decided to do the clear tube float level test. Does anyone know where, on the outside of the float bowl, the float level should end up? It looks like it should be somewhere just below the bowl gasket but I'm guessing.
Here are a few photos on progress, waiting on wheel weights to finish tires and rims.

calj737 · « **Reply #191 on:** September 04, 2017, 02:21:55 PM »

3-4mm below seam

MauiK3 · « **Reply #192 on:** September 07, 2017, 09:34:38 PM »

The gauges arrived from Marcel in the Netherlands, they look great. I'm also assembling a lot of sub-assemblies to find out what I'm missing. It's amazing how many little things you run into. I forgot to order the rubber cushions for the gauges, old ones are pretty crispy. I'm going to assemble the forks and front wheel to check the right caliper angle. Yamiya has a shim for this which I may use, or I may make it. Wish I had a lathe!

Stev-o · « **Reply #193 on:** September 08, 2017, 06:33:30 AM »

Quote from: MauiK3 on September 07, 2017, 09:34:38 PM

The gauges arrived from Marcel in the Netherlands, they look great.

No doubt, his work is impeccable! I have a restored set on the shelf waiting on my K1 resto.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #194 on:** September 08, 2017, 07:57:51 PM »

As I assemble the forks I am wondering how much shimming I need to do for the right caliper on a K3 with the "T" bracket. Has anyone done a K3 or similar? The instructions I've found all refer to the "C" bracket like what is on the K0. I suppose it will be obvious once I get the wheel and discs put on. Waiting for my weights before I take it out of the truing stand.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #195 on:** September 10, 2017, 10:06:56 AM »

Dual disc caliper alignment
I assembled both caliper brackets to check alignment. The left one (from riders view) is about 3/16" or 1/4" inboard of the disc. The right one is centered over the disc. Looks like I need to make some shims to move the right one in to mimic the stock left one. Have to take some careful measurements. The lower shim will be a washer of some sort. I may make the upper shim the shape of the foot of the "t" part of the bracket.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #196 on:** September 11, 2017, 09:26:15 AM »

Got some paint on the engine. Now on to putting them together! POR15 Detail paint, cast aluminum. Went on very nicely. Seems like a good product. Also got the rear tire on the rim.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #197 on:** September 11, 2017, 09:05:35 PM »

Mounting the right side disc and caliper on a K3
I mounted both left and right assemblies. Using a feeler gauge I checked the alignment between the disc and brake caliper of the left side disc, front to back, top to bottom, discovering that it is essentially parallel to the disc. Of course this will vary as the pucks wear. These pucks are new. Measurements were taken between the dead side puck casting area and the disc. With this info in hand I went to the right side and started figuring out the shimming to create the same alignment. The K3, as all know, uses the "T" bracket with three mounting points, two on top, one on the bottom. I started with the same on all. This was wrong, it placed the caliper at an angle, vertically, to the disc. What I ended up with is 0.204" on the top two and 0.086" on the bottom. This placed the caliper assembly fairly parallel to the disc, just like the stock left side. I will guess that there may be variations between bikes, depending on calipers and forks. Another check that helps is shining a flashlight behind the disc to see the gap, it really helps visualize the alignment. Of course the proof will be when I get it on the road and test it.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #198 on:** September 11, 2017, 09:09:34 PM »

Correction, I measured between the live side and the disc. Both have new pucks.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #199 on:** September 11, 2017, 10:51:51 PM »

Also, the top two bolts need to be about 5mm longer.

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Author Topic: K3 Project has now started. (Read 34587 times)