This is getting exciting, I'm anxious to see/hear/ride the results!!
I'm just getting started on installing the Hondaman key switch saver and the ignition module.
Remember this, if you are installing brand-new points: you need to run them about 100 miles or so without the box plugged in, first.
Reasons: the first is simply that nasty coating on the contacts that so far has resisted anything I can find to scrub it ALL off. It is a modern form of cosmolene, and as tenacious as enamel paint. I clean them with lacquer thinner on a sharp points file, then run them about 1 tank of gas, and THEN plug in the box. The Black and Green wires can be connected this whole time: just leave the Yellow/Blue/Orange/Purple wires free until the points are set up and burned clean.
Another reason: the foot and pivot of the points will not seat unless they suffer some initial arcing-breaking action: this puts significant force on them to seat them in. If you wait this 100 miles or so, the points will likely never need to be readjusted again: I ran mine from 2009-2013 with this same 1-2 step process (110 miles per tank of gas, first tank on points) and it never moved the timing, not a hair.
A final (and more recently discovered) reason: today's points are tungsten PLATED, not solid tungsten like they were in the 'old days'. This causes them to act differently with the box when cold, if they are not welded thru their substrate first. Running them reportedly 20 miles is enough to weld the tungsten plate to the underlaying metal (whatever it is) and make them work right. When right: the box will notice the difference between 'cold' points and 'hot' points, and will adjust the current slightly to the coils accordingly. This makes a little bit longer spark while the engine is cold, and everyone notices this right away when they stick the box onto a running bike. If the tungsten is not welded, the junction between it and the underlaying metal acts as a thermocouple and masks the temperature effects from the box.
