Well Mike surely has resources for that type of work too. There is also Big Jay at APE. But some things you can do for yourself.
You can get plastigauge strips and measure your crank and rod bearings and decide if they need replacement. It's rather easy to do, and you can be very accurate without special tools (you do need a decent torque wrench).
A good visual inspection of the crank for any noticeable marring or wear goes a long way too. Mike can help you with cylinder boring too. Or, I can put you in touch with a machinist I use locally here in VA to do the cylinders, valve work etc. He is not Mike Rieck from a performance extracting perspective relative to our heads, but he is a very high quality, experienced machinist and does deal with these motors regularly. (If Mike is backed up, feel free to reach me for his contact).
Likely you'd want to replace your pistons and rings. At 60,000 miles, you can either go first over all the way up to 60mm (yours at stock are 58.5mm). Pistons are available for as cheap as $130 for 4, and as luscious as $600 for a set. Plus machining costs on these.
A decent valve job, possibly guides and springs, and an inspected cam, and you should be good to go (including the primary/cam chain discussed in the other thread). Don't forget member Elan for an oil pump rebuild kit (this is a must!).
You'll be riding in no time 👍
