Topic: Motogadget Nuetral Switch

[bambuhiphop]

So having a hard time getting the Neutral indicator on the cluster to work. I've done some reading and seen two ways to wire. Probably missing something simple, but could use some assistance.

The manual shows connecting the idiot light to the switch and then connect to the AUX port. This did not work for me.

I also have no clutch safety switch. I haven't tried it but I know I can run the Neutral to the idiot light and split off to the start. Not opposed to this but I figure if it isn't lighting per the manual I am missing something. (Same goes for the Oil Pressure light as well)

And on the subject of the AUX port... What are some nice ways to split out? I have more than two wires that need to come into it.

[540nova]

Motogadget makes a 4 port splitter for the M-Unit. I have one, but ended up just making my own with a Molex connector, 1 lead out of aux, and jumped across the other connections. You could also use a simple bus bar.


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[bambuhiphop]

Motogadget makes a 4 port splitter for the M-Unit. I have one, but ended up just making my own with a Molex connector, 1 lead out of aux, and jumped across the other connections. You could also use a simple bus bar.

You happen to have a link for the 4 port splitter? I wasn't seeing that on their site...

[bambuhiphop]

Bambu - the light behaves "in reverse" to your others. The NEU switch is the ground side, bring power to the light from AUX. Same for OIL indicator.

If you wanted to use your clutch safety switch, better to wire it into the START button on you controls (making the CSS required for the START to find its ground before heading to m-unit START input).

It's called the AUX multiplug. No longer selling them, but you might find a few around on the shelves. Apparently the next iteration of the m-unit will have multiple ports for things like AUX and feeds to powered circuits. That makes the AUX plug obsolete.
https://www.novolightingconcepts.com/product-page/433a37f8-2b78-05e5-81fb-e391e698b005

Like Nova, I use a store bought 4-way plastic self locking connector. I jumper the 4 sides from AUX together, than run a single Brown from 1 plug to gauges, 1 BLK/WHT to skill or Coils, 1 to License plate light, 1 to idiot lights. (You get the idea).

Thanks for the link.

My brain is having a hard time working out that path. I did a quick mock up. I know it is wrong.

[bambuhiphop]

Nope.

The GREEN/RED wire from your NEU switch goes to the ground side of the NEU light at the cluster.
AUX provides power to the NEU idiot light, "hot side".

BLUE/RED behaves just like GREEN/RED.

Make sense? These 2 wires are "grounds" where nearly every other colored/striped wire on your bike is "switched power". so its got you backwards.

Here's a diagram I did recently for a member that shows these 2 wires and the power from AUX feeding these gauge lights as a reference. These 2 switches are in the upper right corner of my diagram.

I get the concept. What I am seeing on the bike doesn't jive though. I really only have a single wire coming out of the Acewell for the Neutral. I need to play with it some more and isolate out the switch for function and the idiot light for function. I think then my brain will better understand the flow.

Diagram is super helpful. Actually answered another question I had about the Reg/Rec wiring. Thanks!

[greenjeans]

I always test anything with LEDs.     A simple 9v battery (the square ones) will work.   There is a + and - to those batteries.  It has to be correct.

[bambuhiphop]

What I am seeing on the bike doesn't jive though. I really only have a single wire coming out of the Acewell for the Neutral. I need to play with it some more and isolate out the switch for function and the idiot light for function. I think then my brain will better understand the flow.

Well why didn't you say you had an Acewell? Keeping secrets from the class doesn't help Johnny get good grades. Which Acewell?

Is the "switch for function and idiot light function..." a reference to your handlebar controls operating the Acewell? Or which harness wire connects to which at the Acewell? (I suspect the latter because the Acewell's generally have a button on their face to toggle thru the menus). 

But if I keep the secrets I am the only one who can get the good grades (or be the only one who fails), hahaha!

It is an ACE-2853. No connection to the hand controls. It connects to the harness.  At the moment I have RED on AUX and BROWN on a 12v constant. It does have menu buttons.

Found a diagram online for reference. Ignore the handwritten stuff.

[bambuhiphop]

Try this instead

So aside from the Brown on the solenoid this is how it is wired now. May be something else going on. I will have to get a separate light and and switch and test further.

[bambuhiphop]

So whats not working?

Light on the Acewell is not lighting.

[bambuhiphop]

Neutral light on the Acewell doesn't light up when bike is in neutral.

I shift it out of neutral and still no light on the Acewell. I'm not sure if my neutral switch is installed correctly. So, I am going to wire in a temp momentary switch in its place and see if I get any different result on the Acewell. From there my thought was to wire in a temp led with the temp switch and test function, then add in either actual Neutral switch or neutral light on the Acewell to figure out what isn't right.

[bambuhiphop]

A far more simple test would be to wire a temporary jumper to ground as the input wire to the Acewell NEU wire. If you touch ground with that wire, the light should glow. If so, your switch is improperly installed or bad. If it does not, there's an issue with the gauge.

That simple test worked on both neutral and oil idiot lights. Down to the switch. I'm thinking it is installed improperly because it is a NOS switch that was unopened when I got it. Pretty sure there is user error here.

[540nova]

I wouldn't be surprised if it's a bad from stock switch. Seeing so much of that these days, even in the aviation industry. I've had a couple bad switches in my last build.


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[bambuhiphop]

If not, check to make sure that your coated cases and/or Glyptal aren't preventing proper contact of the switch housing to the cases.

This is actually what I think is happening. The switch isn't grounding. I am going to play with it this weekend. On the plus side I have the K&S switch fully functional. Signals work, Hi/Low works, horn works, and event got the kill to work and be a config button.

Also had a big, your an idiot, realization. For some reason I got it in my head that the signal rocker had a push function to turn on the Hazards. Nope, just the cancel. I'm a moron. Going to wire up a separate button this weekend and get that working as well.

[bambuhiphop]

CONFIG is not available except under test situations. Don't really need it ever once set up. And don't need a switch anyways. Simple ground jumper to trip it into menu mode.

I know. But its there if I need it!

[540nova]

CONFIG is not available except under test situations. Don't really need it ever once set up. And don't need a switch anyways. Simple ground jumper to trip it into menu mode.

I know. But its there if I need it!

You are not going to need it! It is a set it, and forget it situation.


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[bambuhiphop]

Grounded the switch with a separate wire and the idiot light lighted up. So I think the Glyptal is blocking the switch from grounding to the case.

[RAFster122s]

That is no fun, given the need to take the cases apart again...
Well, you can see the results of your previous gasket. I hope you don't need a new gasket for the case halves. Maybe a super thin coating of HondaBond will do it on reassembly.
At least you have figured it out now.  Sounds like we need to start having a test of the neutral switch added early in the build up of cases so you don't get far down the road and have to redo it...
Helpful tips section for motor reassembly maybe?  One for 550 and 750 and 650 for those who have experiences to share. Probably a motor teardown one would be good for the usual sticking points people often run into...  Could be a worthwhile project/thread(s)...

David

[bambuhiphop]

That is no fun, given the need to take the cases apart again...

This was a joke, David. Just pulling his leg with some crazy notion. Don't panic the guy!

You were joking!!! I already split the case and found a surgeons sponge stuck in there, hahaha!!!

No, didn't split the case. I actually need to borrow my step-dads hex adapters. The bolt is torqued in and my T handle is to fragile. Threads on the rotating piece are clean. No sure about the threads holding the actual switch. Will have it apart tomorrow to confirm.

[bambuhiphop]

Ok, so still trying to work through this. It took the rotating mechanism off to test the mechanical side of the switch. In doing so I pressed the tab side of the switch to make contact with the base and the dash light turns on as wired. My question is what is the articulation of the switch supposed to be? When the rotating piece is on it barely makes contact, not enough to depress the tab all the way down (assuming that is the expected and correct action).

[bambuhiphop]

One more follow up. Does the brass side of the rotor face out or in toward the motor?

[Smowzer]

If you wanted to use your clutch safety switch, better to wire it into the START button on your controls (making the CSS required for the START to find its ground before heading to m-unit START input).

Cal, could you elaborate on this please? I have an M. Unit basic and this is where I am while I wait on a new battery charger to come in.. I have a 76 CB750 and I%u2019m not sure how I%u2019d go about that. I%u2019ll include a diagram of my current wiring if anyone has any input.

[bryanj]

Where did you ground the switch too? I have seen lots where people paint or powder coat the engine mountings stopping the engine grounding to the frame and battery. Coating needs to be removed both sides of r/h rear engine mount for good contact to engine case and ground cable

[Smowzer]

If you wanted to use your clutch safety switch, better to wire it into the START button on your controls (making the CSS required for the START to find its ground before heading to m-unit START input).

Cal, could you elaborate on this please?

Update, I've got it sorted. Just needs to wire the Starter switch ground to the lead of the clutch switch, then ground the other. Thanks for mentioning that explanation!