Topic: "I will git 'er done, eventually" 750K8 project

[Marks78]

A few photos to get started,(till photobucket f#@$*d it). Not in the best of shape but hey it starts and runs! Just don't try to ride it    No working front brake, throttle cables so stiff once you managed to turn it a bit it wouldn't even think about snapping back on it's own. Bald, almost 40yr old front tire, F model side covers, etc... but it did include some extras that made it all worthwhile  two vetter fairings with matching (for one of them) lowers and correct mounting bracket, one spare front tire (only 7yr old) and a trunk that might make a good parts bin and one very clunky old hard-frame mount for unknown brand of side bags.   
 
as it is today, waiting for fork rebuild and new steering head bearings
Blade style fuse box being retrofitted and one of many new electrical connectors

slight clearance issue between the shock and chain guard (not yet sure of the best solution here)

and the ancient, possibly original front tire

If anyone knows how to decipher this code I would love to know what it tells about the age of the tire

Thanks for looking and wish me luck!  I will post updates as progress is made but it will be one of those slow to go projects.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Definitely in need of new rubber. 

I would perform the 3000 mile service items and get it running safe and reliable before you engage in alterations.  That looks like the direction you're taking. 

What's the overall plan? Run and enjoy, restore, modify?

[Desert-SOHC]

Those brackets are for Vetter bags and I want them if your gunna get rid of them!!

Nice start.

Your chain guard is probably bent...check and see if the chain is centered.

[Stev-o]

Good pics, Mark!   The tire date of manufacture code is typically 4 digits [week and year] but your tire is O-L-D!  Suggest Avon, Bridgestone, Dunlop or IRC.

I may have some nice throttle cables for sale...[sold my K7 before installing]

[Marks78]

Definitely in need of new rubber. 

I would perform the 3000 mile service items and get it running safe and reliable before you engage in alterations.  That looks like the direction you're taking. 

What's the overall plan? Run and enjoy, restore, modify?

It definitely needs a thorough going over before being ridden! The wiring connectors would literally turn to powder when touched! 
Can't decide on the tread pattern I want--vintage/old school or more modern street bike but I need to figure it out soon cause I won't even test ride around the back pasture with those tires! For now I want to clean it up as much as I can and ride and enjoy this summer. It sat out under an Oak tree for about 20yrs according to the PO (the air-box was FULL of acorns) so it really needs to be stripped down to the frame and cleaned from top to bottom to do it right. That just sounds like too much work for me right now. Though I do plan on painting it soon. Don't want it to be too ugly. 

[Restoration Fan]

Nice find.  I have a set of Pirelli's on my 750K8 and I really like them a lot.  Good grip in both dry and semi-wet conditions.  I have no idea about how they handle wet conditions because I haven't taken that bike out in wet conditions/rain.

[Marks78]

Those brackets are for Vetter bags and I want them if your gunna get rid of them!!

Nice start.

Your chain guard is probably bent...check and see if the chain is centered.

PM sent concerning bracket.   I will surely check the guard to see if it's bent. The chain and sprockets look original so they are definitely getting replaced! 

[Marks78]

Good pics, Mark!   The tire date of manufacture code is typically 4 digits [week and year] but your tire is O-L-D!  Suggest Avon, Bridgestone, Dunlop or IRC.

I may have some nice throttle cables for sale...[sold my K7 before installing]

Thanks Stev-o, truly appreciate the help with posting pics and the suggestions for tires. Would really like to have matching tread front & rear but haven't found a set like that yet.
PS--Thanks for the offer on the cables. I lubed them really well and they seem to be ok for now, at least till I get it back on the road. But I will send you a PM and take them off your hands so I have a good set for when I am ready for them.

[Stev-o]

It can be hard picking tires especially if you have the stock 17" rear wheel. 
I put Dunlop 404's on my K8....

[Desert-SOHC]

The chain and sprockets look original so they are definitely getting replaced!

Do a 530 conversion on the chain, there are tons of different size sprockets available to fine tune your ratio, and it SO MUCH lighter than the 630 that they came with and the new 530 chains are plenty strong for these old bikes

[Marks78]

The chain and sprockets look original so they are definitely getting replaced!

Do a 530 conversion on the chain, there are tons of different size sprockets available to fine tune your ratio, and it SO MUCH lighter than the 630 that they came with and the new 530 chains are plenty strong for these old bikes

I have read about that conversion and I am interested in researching it some more. Other than the weight savings and availability I'm not sure what the advantages would be. I am definitely not an aggressive sport-rider, mostly like to cruise the highways (two lane black-tops) so don't know if I would notice many advantages or not. Definitely will look into it further though. Thanks for the suggestion!

[Desert-SOHC]

The chain and sprockets look original so they are definitely getting replaced!

Do a 530 conversion on the chain, there are tons of different size sprockets available to fine tune your ratio, and it SO MUCH lighter than the 630 that they came with and the new 530 chains are plenty strong for these old bikes

I have read about that conversion and I am interested in researching it some more. Other than the weight savings and availability I'm not sure what the advantages would be. I am definitely not an aggressive sport-rider, mostly like to cruise the highways (two lane black-tops) so don't know if I would notice many advantages or not. Definitely will look into it further though. Thanks for the suggestion!

I did it to get lower rpm's at highway speed for better mpg and smoothness.  They'll do 6K all day long, but I don't like the buzz in the mirrors up there, 4,500 is much smoother.  That's why I went to a 530, I have to do 80+ mph on the highway or get run over around here, and couldn't find the sprockets to do that for a 630 chain, but could do it in a 530 conversion.

[Marks78]

It is time to decide--Do I rebuild the Tach and Speedometer or do I replace them? They are not in terrible shape, the speedo has a worse dent in the black metal part of the housing than the Tach in the photo and they definitely need to be painted and polished! I've watched the 'how to disassemble' videos and feel like I can do the deed but I can't decide if doing it just for the experience would be worth it or if I should just buy replacement gauges and spend my time doing other repairs. It appears as though I could spend as much on parts as I would on replacements.  Also, the chrome portion of the Tach is slightly out of round in the bottom left portion, don't know how tricky that will be to fix. Anyone taken them apart and rebuilt them successfully? What do you think? (the black spot on the gauge face is a dead spider  )

[Desert-SOHC]

All that stuff is available new from CB750faces.com if you want to do it, or you can ship them off and they will rebuild them for you.  I picked up another set  for cheap and tested them on Mable, they will be rebuilt and will replace the ones on her now and I will sell the ones I'm using.   

[Marks78]

Thanks for the input Chuck. Took the Tach apart over the weekend and decided to order new face plates for the gauges and see how they turn out after lots of cleaning and a new coat of paint. Pretty easy to disassemble. Curious to see how easy it is to re-crimp the ring for reassembly. 

[Desert-SOHC]

Thanks for the input Chuck. Took the Tach apart over the weekend and decided to order new face plates for the gauges and see how they turn out after lots of cleaning and a new coat of paint. Pretty easy to disassemble. Curious to see how easy it is to re-crimp the ring for reassembly.

New rings are available and there is a video on youtube about it from what I gather...I havent got there yet.

[Marks78]

I stumbled across a set of gauges for a "to good to pass up" price so, for better or worse, I ordered them instead of refurbishing mine. At $45 each I couldn't say no. 
Fork seals, fork cap o-rings, carb clamp and breather box gasket should be here in a few days. 

[Marks78]

A little update with a big question. I took the forks apart today and cleaned them up in preparation for installing new seals and oil and found something that has me stumped. First off I was not aware that the tubes have a long (non removable) metal sleeve in them, one of the metal sleeves is perfectly smooth inside - no problem there - the sleeve in the other tube has what looks like a welded seam running the entire length of the sleeve  . This seam is rough enough that it has worn several grooves in the sealing ring of the damper rod.  So...my question is, do I need to replace the tubes or does someone know of a way to smooth out the rough seam?!? All help is much appreciated!

[Marks78]

Decided to try my hand at re-spokeing a wheel so I ordered spokes from "4into1" and wrenches off Amazon. Spokes have arrived and wrenches are on the way. Had/chose to cut the front tire off as it was older and stiffer than I am and I didn't feel like fighting it.  Anxious to find out if I can figure this out without screwing it up!   Haven't found any info concerning the funky seam in the fork tube so it will get replaced. Found a set from CycleX for a good price. Springs are at their wear/sag limit so they are getting replaced as are the wheel bearings. Slow but steady progress is better than no progress, right?!?

[Desert-SOHC]

Brave guy....I haven't tried that yet, but its coming.

[Marks78]

Maybe just a glutton for punishment?!    I'll find out over the next couple of weeks and, for better or worse, post the results.    Any thoughts on whether or not a steering bearing race driver is helpful? Like this one,  http://www.vintagecb750.com/parts/480/35-9124.jpg

[Stev-o]

   Any thoughts on whether or not a steering bearing race driver is helpful? Like this one,  http://www.vintagecb750.com/parts/480/35-9124.jpg

For removing races? Not necessary, I use a piece of SS round stock. Simple...

[Marks78]

Thanks Steve!  You never know when a specialty tool will actually be helpful or just an unnecessary expense. Will pass on the driver and gladly spend that $30 on something else. 

[JoeCooley]

I just use a long drift/punch and hammer for removal. A long 3/8 extension would work also but make sure it's one you don't care about. To reassemble, use a big socket and tap it in.

[Marks78]

The long drift & hammer method sounds like what I will use since I already have those tools in the shop. It usually works fairly well without doing damage (if your careful and the drift doesn't slip). I'm curious to find out if the original ball style bearings are still in there or if they've been replaced with some good taper style bearings.