Topic: First build new to working on bikes in general. Open to tips, criticism, comment

[Joshhk4]

Hey everyone, first off I want to thank the site and everybody on here for all the information I've learned from you guys so far!  I've had the bike about a week and a half now and I've been coming back and forth to your forums probably daily since a a few weeks before I bought the bike. Figured it was time I join and share my build. 

So about me I love anything 2 wheels!  I'm 25 rode BMX most of my life. had one street bike a few years ago and in the last couple years have picked up cross country dirt bike riding/racing.  So really the only experience I have with working on bikes is coming from the last few years of working on my dirt bikes. But I like to do anything and everything that I possibly can with what I have and love the idea of riding something that I've built myself. 

Now about the bike it's a 74 cb750 that I picked up a few weeks ago from my uncle that I'm wanting to strip down to a cafe/brat style bike on a budget for the time being.  From what I can tell everything is original other than the paint. Bike has 19000 original miles but has sat in his storage container since 2000. It ran with no problems when he parked it, he parked after blowing the rear tire and there it's been since. I gave 500 for the bike.

So far I have done quite a bit of cleaning to a little bit of everything with tons more to do.
I have pulled the wheels and changed out tires for Shinko 712 front and back.
Stripped down the carbs as it'd sat with gas in it the whole time! Man they were a mess still working on them cleaning them a bit, I've bought rebuild kits for them.
I've removed the brakes front and back and have new ones to put on
Android I'm in the process of cleaning out the rust filled tank! I'm using the vinegar/salt method and it seems to be working amazing!

I have not attempted to start the bike yet and plan to do the following before I do.
Finish the carbs-clean, rebuild, bench sync
Check timing and adjust/ replace the points if necessary
Change the plugs and wires
Put on some clip ons
Change the oil and filter
Clean the air box and replace the filter
Soak the rubber boots from carb to intake in xythol and wintergreen oil hoping to rejuvenate them as they're hard as rock.
Replace all the fuel line and filters
Clean the fuel petcock
Possibly convert to lithium battery?
Flush out the forks and replace the oil
Grease the axles bearings and steering stem
Disassemble clean and possibly rebuild the caliper and master cylinder.

Anything else you'd suggest? Remember I'm on a budget  and not much experience and I'm working in my 12x15 shed  with only basic tooling. 

Thanks for reading! I'll try to keep it updated as I progress.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Download a copy of the factory service manual here on the site. 

Perform the 3,000 mile service. 

Use genuine carburetor rebuild kits, and not aftermarket kits.

Ran when parked is a common expression used by sellers and is often inaccurate -- or the bike was poorly stored.  I am glad you are planning to go through the bike's various systems to get it in safe, reliable running condition.

[Joshhk4]

Download a copy of the factory service manual here on the site. 

Perform the 3,000 mile service. 

Use genuine carburetor rebuild kits, and not aftermarket kits.

Ran when parked is a common expression used by sellers and is often inaccurate -- or the bike was poorly stored.  I am glad you are planning to go through the bike's various systems to get it in safe, reliable running condition.

Thanks for the advice! I have downloaded the service manual from here its definitely helping. And I bought the bike from my uncle and my dad as a witness to back up his statement that it ran when parked. And I helped dig it out of his storage container myself where it's been for 16 years.

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[Joshhk4]

And I figure since I'm in Indiana and it's 20 something outside I might as well take my time and get it right and safe in the next month or two hopefully

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[Stev-o]

Check timing and adjust/ replace the points if necessary
Change the plugs and wires

Soak the rubber boots from carb to intake in xythol and wintergreen oil hoping to rejuvenate them as they're hard as rock.
Replace all the fuel line and filters

Disassemble clean and possibly rebuild the caliper and master cylinder.

First off, congrats and welcome. I also have a K4, great bike. A few comments on your list above:

Change the points, but get OEM [not cheap chinese crap]
Your plug wires are most likely fine, plus they do not disconnect from your coils [if they are stock] Do change the plug cap.

Do yourself a favor, buy new "rubber boots"

If you clean the fuel tank properly, a filter is not needed or recommended

Clean the caliper and change the seal [$5]

Good luck!

[Joshhk4]

Check timing and adjust/ replace the points if necessary
Change the plugs and wires

Soak the rubber boots from carb to intake in xythol and wintergreen oil hoping to rejuvenate them as they're hard as rock.
Replace all the fuel line and filters

Disassemble clean and possibly rebuild the caliper and master cylinder.

First off, congrats and welcome. I also have a K4, great bike. A few comments on your list above:

Change the points, but get OEM [not cheap chinese crap]
Your plug wires are most likely fine, plus they do not disconnect from your coils [if they are stock] Do change the plug cap.

Do yourself a favor, buy new "rubber boots"

If you clean the fuel tank properly, a filter is not needed or recommended

Clean the caliper and change the seal [$5]

Good luck!

Thanks! Good tips! I was just assuming to use filters because there were already some on it when I bought it figured they came with them. Definitely hoping the tank comes out clean enough to not need them it is looking pretty good so far. I have bought new wires and plug caps. I was under the impression that's the old wires could be removed from the coil and replaced. Maybe my source on that was wrong, thank you I'll look into it.

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[Joshhk4]

Here is what it looked like straight out of the container onto my trailer

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[Joshhk4]

This is before and after letting the tank soak for one day with salt and vinegar in it, draining that rinsed with a pressure washer what I could (it basically came right off could a used a normal hose) and then I put that back in to let it soak some more.

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[calj737]

If you swap to clip-ons, your cables will be too long (throttle, clutch and brake lines) so be prepared to spend a little money and get the correct length ones. Clip ons really work much better with rear sets, so before you go haywire, you might give some Norman Hyde M bars (lower rise, less pull back upright bars) as thought. That will give the option of rear sets, stock pegs, and a more forward position for riding.

It would also prudent to give the chain and sprockets a good look over and possible replacement. Their age alone probably makes them crusty and due for the junk pile.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

This is before and after letting the tank soak for one day with salt and vinegar in it, draining that rinsed with a pressure washer what I could (it basically came right off could a used a normal hose) and then I put that back in to let it soak some more.

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Once you get it clean, you'll want to hit it with some rust preventative at least until you try to fire the bike or you'll get flash rust immediately.  A better long term solution is to coat the tank with Caswell epoxy (withstands ethanol based fuels).

[Restoration Fan]

Congrats on the purchase and the even better decision to join this forum.  They'll get you there; I know because I knew absolutely nothing about bikes when I joined and the guys on here helped my son & I rebuild a 78 750 for his senior project.  I still have it and it's running marvelously.

If it were me, before I went too far, I'd make sure there's oil in the engine and I'd fire it up just to see how it runs and if it leaks oil, etc.  That will let you know if you need to rebuild.  With only 19K miles on it, it may only need the 3000 mile service that Don (CB750 Cafe Racer Fan) recommended.

Best of luck and make sure to keep us updated.  Remember that there is no question too stupid to ask.  And I know that for sure as well because I asked some doozies!

[754]

Often the oil will drain into the motor, during a long sit. So dont fill the tank right up .if there isca few inches in it..fine.. It will return within a minute of running. Draining the pan would be a good idea, if it leaked down, could be several quarts in there.  If there is any water, best find out before you start it.
 I would not line a tank unless it leaks . If ordering parts you may get the clutch locknut tool..20 bux or less , may need it in the near future.
 Bike looks good, nice buy.. It has the earlier emblems on the sidecover, they are nicer. The orange diamond is on the wrong side..... If you try to change it and break the oin, you will wish you left it.

[Joshhk4]

Thanks for the feeback everyone!
 
Calj  I have already bought some clip on or I would definitely consider those they do look good.  I have thought about rear sets not sure yet on them. And definitely going to give the Chain at minimum a good clean and oil although it is actually in very good shape no rust on the chain whatsoever not kinked anywhere and well oiled.  Sprockets are also in very good shape.

Cb750 caferacer fan I am definitely planning on using rust preventative inside the take once cleaned. Not planning on lining it unless really necessary.

Restoration fan.  Thanks and yes definitely a good moving joining the forum already having so much good feedback tips and suggestions.

754  I will for sure drain all the oil and fill it back up to spec before attempting to run it.  Let's hope there's no water.  Shouldn't be it's been in a well sealed container the entire time it has sat. Are you saying the I'm most likely going to need clutch plates soon?  And the emblems aren't correct for 74? Just curious on that I'm mossy likely going to end up aiming for a clear rear triangle anyway in the long run so probably won't use the covers. 

Again thanks everybody I really appreciate the feedback.

[Joshhk4]

Finished cleaning/greasing both wheels today threw in some new shoes,
checked on the tank rinsed it out and put in fresh vinegar, it's looking good, put some elbow grease on the fork lowers, frame and exhaust, started tearing into the caliper but the piston is seized so it soaking then going to try to pop it out with compressed air, also pulled the shocks and made sure the swing arm moved freely and it is super smooth.

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[calj737]

Be mindful with the duration of the vinegar soak. Vinegar is an acid and doesn't have a "stop eating now timer" in it. Get it cleaned up, maybe toss in an old chain, shake vigorously to dislodge any stubborn bits, rinse, neutralize, and fog with gas/oil.

[rickmoore24]

Try the grease gun method of getting a stuck caliper piston out. Never tried compressed air. Good luck! Rick.

[rickmoore24]

BTW, the compressed air method tends to fire the piston like a canon, so I've read. Sounds like fun! Grease gun method is nice and safe. LOL 

[BLAC]

BTW, the compressed air method tends to fire the piston like a canon, so I've read. Sounds like fun! Grease gun method is nice and safe. LOL 

But that doesn't sound near as exciting!

[rickmoore24]

BTW, the compressed air method tends to fire the piston like a canon, so I've read. Sounds like fun! Grease gun method is nice and safe. LOL 

But that doesn't sound near as exciting!

This is true! LOL BTW, just caught your build thread (where have I been??), NICE! Looking forward to seeing that progress too.

[Joshhk4]

Thanks yeah I plan to neutralize it soon then will probably rinse it out with some mixed 2 stroke gas I have. And good idea with the grease gun I never thought about that. And  yes the compressor method makes a cannon. I don't like to admit it haha but the last time I did it in wasn't being careful and turned the caliper towards myself....boooom!  Thought my nose was broke! Haha

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[Stev-o]

BTW, the compressed air method tends to fire the piston like a canon, so I've read. Sounds like fun! Grease gun method is nice and safe. LOL 

But that doesn't sound near as exciting!

I typically do the grease gun method but tried compressed air trick, it was more fun!
And no messy clean up.

[MauiK3]

Great bike to get going on. I suggest you read EVERYTHING written by Hondaman, a lot is here on the forum, check for Thoughts of Hondaman. He is one of the, if not the foremost guru of these machines and he is a great help.
For example, your spark plug connectors are likely toast. I read his guidelines to check them and mine were way over the limit for resistance, which really screws things up. My 73 that I'm working on came to me running very rich, this (among other things) is one of the reasons.

You can also purchase his book from Lulu.com. Mine is on the way.

Steve

[Joshhk4]

Great bike to get going on. I suggest you read EVERYTHING written by Hondaman, a lot is here on the forum, check for Thoughts of Hondaman. He is one of the, if not the foremost guru of these machines and he is a great help.
For example, your spark plug connectors are likely toast. I read his guidelines to check them and mine were way over the limit for resistance, which really screws things up. My 73 that I'm working on came to me running very rich, this (among other things) is one of the reasons.

You can also purchase his book from Lulu.com. Mine is on the way.

Steve

Thanks!  Just read thoughts of hondaman a few days ago. He's a guru for sure! I might have to look into that book! And yep already bought new plug caps and wires expecting that.

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[AlekStooge]

Josh, only thing I might recommend is updating some of your electrics along with the battery, like a modern reg/rec unit. I know I had a problem maintaining charge, my bike would run 100 miles, die, recharge and die again.

If you swap to clip-ons, your cables will be too long (throttle, clutch and brake lines) so be prepared to spend a little money and get the correct length ones. Clip ons really work much better with rear sets, so before you go haywire, you might give some Norman Hyde M bars (lower rise, less pull back upright bars) as thought. That will give the option of rear sets, stock pegs, and a more forward position for riding.

It would also prudent to give the chain and sprockets a good look over and possible replacement. Their age alone probably makes them crusty and due for the junk pile.

Cal, I heard that the only cable that needs to really be replaced is the clutch. I know DaveBarbier routed his throttle cables in a loop around the headlight and doesn't have problems... or is that too dangerous?

[calj737]

Cal, I heard that the only cable that needs to really be replaced is the clutch. I know DaveBarbier routed his throttle cables in a loop around the headlight and doesn't have problems... or is that too dangerous?

You would take advice from Dave?    Only kidding...


It all depends really. Sometimes, re-routing works. Other times it binds the cables up, especially the throttle cables. You're right though, worth checking first.