Author Topic: First build new to working on bikes in general. Open to tips, criticism, comment (Read 5798 times)

AlekStooge · « **Reply #25 on:** February 11, 2017, 07:04:14 PM »

We'll see how it works and looks.

Joshhk4 · « **Reply #26 on:** February 12, 2017, 06:12:52 AM »

Thanks and I might end up having to do a modern reg/rect if I end up going lithium battery from what I've read so it doesn't overcharge.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #27 on:** February 12, 2017, 02:06:44 PM »

Quote from: Joshhk4 on February 12, 2017, 06:12:52 AM

Thanks and I might end up having to do a modern reg/rect if I end up going lithium battery from what I've read so it doesn't overcharge.

Yes. And olid state rectifier is essential when using a lithium based battery.

AlekStooge · « **Reply #28 on:** February 12, 2017, 07:46:33 PM »

Use a modern sealed battery. I got one at Battery Giant, I don't know if you have those by you. I wanted to do a lithium but you have to make some changes along with that type of battery, which I long forgotten what they were. Anyone care to remind me?

Anyways I figured what the heck and got a regular sealed battery that you can flip upside down and still use, reliable. You can save some money this way but do get the reg/rec.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #29 on:** February 12, 2017, 08:17:15 PM »

A lithium-based battery is a better choice if you have a race bike and need to save every pound/ounce OR if you need to fit/hide your battery in a very small, non-stock space.

Otherwise, I'd go with a gel battery.

Lithium batteries are pricey and copious amounts of cold cranking amps BUT IF they lose their charge to a certain voltage level, the will never recover.

rickmoore24 · « **Reply #30 on:** February 12, 2017, 09:37:48 PM »

I find AGM batteries to be the best bang for the buck, especially if you aren't racing (for weight) and want to leave the stock charging system relatively untouched. I've had good luck with the Motobatt stuff, but in reality they are all probably made in the same place and rebranded.

Joshhk4 · « **Reply #31 on:** February 13, 2017, 01:32:19 AM »

The only real reason I'm considering lithium is for space I'm not so concerned on weight because I'm not planning to race or anything. Although the weight loss is not a bad thing either. Short term I will probably use the stock battery box and everything in that area just to get riding it, but long term I want to free up the rear triangle as much as possible which is why I would want a lithium. And probably swap out the oil tank for a front mounted oil cooler. Anybody have suggestions on Which lithium battery would be small enough to do this and still start the bike? Oil cooler suggestions?

calj737 · « **Reply #32 on:** February 13, 2017, 05:15:21 AM »

Quote from: Joshhk4 on February 13, 2017, 01:32:19 AM

And probably swap out the oil tank for a front mounted oil cooler.

Are you sure this actually is sufficient? I've seen plenty of folks use oil coolers on their bikes, I have not seen any that also abandoned the oil tank as a result.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #33 on:** February 13, 2017, 09:55:54 AM »

Shorai, I believe, has the best reliability. I have had 2 lithium batteries (other brands) bite the dust when their voltage fell below the requisite threshold. Just don't make this bike your commuter.

I have not heard of anyone eliminating their oil tank altogether. The oil cooler will not likely provide enough oil to make up for its loss.

Joshhk4 · « **Reply #34 on:** February 13, 2017, 10:41:28 AM »

Thanks, and OK noob mistake on my part I just thought I'd seen bikes that looked like it had been done. I hadn't actually really done anything research into it yet.

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Joshhk4 · « **Reply #35 on:** February 13, 2017, 10:43:17 AM »

Quote from: CB750 Cafe Racer Fan on February 13, 2017, 09:55:54 AM

Shorai, I believe, has the best reliability. I have had 2 lithium batteries (other brands) bite the dust when their voltage fell below the requisite threshold. Just don't make this bike your commuter.

I have not heard of anyone eliminating their oil tank altogether. The oil cooler will not likely provide enough oil to make up for its loss.

Does shorai make one small/powerful enough to start it and hide it?

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calj737 · « **Reply #36 on:** February 13, 2017, 11:03:19 AM »

They do. Their LFA-14XA2 is very popular. 200 cranking amps is more than adequate to turn over your bike.

Regarding the oil tank/cooler, perhaps the bikes you've seen are either 550s (no oil tank) or 750s with the oil tank relocated under the seat hump or within the fuel tank. Its pretty easy to relocate them and and others have used a thinner tank mounted in front of the rear wheel, between the frame rails. Looks like a fender almost.

Joshhk4 · « **Reply #37 on:** February 13, 2017, 11:09:16 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on February 13, 2017, 11:03:19 AM

They do. Their LFA-14XA2 is very popular. 200 cranking amps is more than adequate to turn over your bike.

Regarding the oil tank/cooler, perhaps the bikes you've seen are either 550s (no oil tank) or 750s with the oil tank relocated under the seat hump or within the fuel tank. Its pretty easy to relocate them and and others have used a thinner tank mounted in front of the rear wheel, between the frame rails. Looks like a fender almost.

Awesome! Thanks I'll look into that battery and yeah probably hidden and I just assumed. Good to know I'll look into my options.

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rickmoore24 · « **Reply #38 on:** February 13, 2017, 11:29:08 AM »

Devin over at Cognitomoto makes a bolt on oil tank solution that cleans up the triangle really well. Electrics will have to move though.

https://cognitomoto.com/products/bolt-on-cb750-oil-can

Joshhk4 · « **Reply #39 on:** February 13, 2017, 03:05:17 PM »

Quote from: rickmoore24 on February 13, 2017, 11:29:08 AM

Devin over at Cognitomoto makes a bolt on oil tank solution that cleans up the triangle really well. Electrics will have to move though.

https://cognitomoto.com/products/bolt-on-cb750-oil-can

That does look good thanks for the link!

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Joshhk4 · « **Reply #40 on:** February 20, 2017, 03:42:25 PM »

Update on what I've got done in the last week or so since I updated.

I have finished soaking in vinegar and cleaning inside the gas tank and it looks great! (What I can see at least) I neutralized the tank with baking soda and water then dried it out with a towel the best I could, I then put 2 stroke mixed gas in it shook it up well drained and repeated a few times leaving some in it the last time with some heat gas treatment In there with the mixed gas to draw out any moisture that might be left.

I couldn't get the caliper bleeder out as quick as I'd wanted to it took a lot of soaking, so I could use the air compressor to pop out the caliper piston so I actually found a screwdriver that the handle fit in the piston tight and wiggled it into the piston and was able to pull it back out with the piston attached. However unfortunately now the screwdriver was stuck to the piston! Ended up wrapping a shirt around the piston and using vise grips on it to pull the screw driver back out. Scratched the piston! Bought a new one and a seal and cleaned the crap out of it and put it back together. Caliper is done and ready to go on the bike.

I also tore down the master cylinder and gave it a good clean and reassembled it. Fought that darn c clip for probably 3 days off and on soaking and prying using just seal picks, but I finally got it! Now it's ready to go back on the bike.

I did rebuild the carbs with all new jets and seals put them back together. Waiting on new fuel lines to finish putting them on the bike. I half ass bench synchronized them but I'm sure it's definitely half assed as I've never done anything with multiple carbs.

I changed the oil and filter, put some seafoam in there and plan to do another change shortly after getting it running.

I pulled the forks off and going to clean, change oil and seals. I'm thinking about taking the fork shrouds with the stock turn signals off and leaving them off, haven't figured out how I want to mount the head light if I do that but that will make mounting the clip ons easier.

I think that's about it for now I'm sure I missed some small stuff I did, getting closer to attempting to start this thing! I'm ready to hear it run!

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Joshhk4 · « **Reply #41 on:** March 11, 2017, 03:47:46 AM »

Update on where I'm at now.

I put new seals and oil in the forks got rid of the stock fork shrouds and turn signals and put on a headlight bracket and got them back on the bike along with the wheels and brakes. Still need to put on the master cylinder on but haven't put on my new bars yet.

I was planning to use the stock airbox box and stock type filter but my airbox to carb boots were junk so I ended up just buying k&n pods. Wanted to go that route eventually anyway but wanted to save myself on jetting hassle some guys say they get with pods.

Bought a scorpion lithium iron battery that is super tiny compared to the stock battery so I needed to make a smaller battery box. I made one up that fits pretty well where the old on was just a lot shallower. I made it to fit with the stock oil tank for now until I decide if I want to relocate it or not. Still have quit a bit of cleaning up to do on the wiring it's not the prettiest. I did put on a modern regulator/rectifier to take care of the new the battery.

I finally attempted to start the bike!! No luck at first but I will say I was really impressed with how well the new battery turns the bike over! So I wasn't getting spark tested the coils but they were in spec so I checked out the points that I spaced checking out like I said I was going to. I got antsy and couldn't wait to hear it run. They were pretty burnt but cleaned up well with a little sand paper. Then just checking for spark not meaning to start it it fired right up with three plugs in. Only ran it for a few seconds but it seemed to run pretty smooth especially considering it was on 3 cylinders.

I was leaking out the over flow on a few carbs and on the ts between the carbs the fuel lines attach to. Readjusted float level and bought some of rings from the local hardware for the ts wasn't a perfect fit but got it back together and no leaking from there. However carb 1 still leaks a little out of the overflow. Not sure on the issue there yet. But tried staring again and it ran pretty well.

Still need to sync the carbs and clean up the wiring and finish fitting the new battery box and I think I'll be ready for a test ride.

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calj737 · « **Reply #42 on:** March 11, 2017, 04:12:37 AM »

You may have a split in the overflow tube inside the carb bowl. Drop the bowl from #1, and really carefully examine the brass tube. If you don't see anything, fill the bowl with gas while off the carb and see if you notice a hole.

It could be just that your float height in that carb is off, or you used aftermarket brass valves and jets and you're not getting get a good seal on the float valve seat.. $:-\$

Joshhk4 · « **Reply #43 on:** March 11, 2017, 05:07:30 AM »

Thanks goods idea on filling it off the bike I'll do that for sure. I did look at it pretty close already but I didn't think to fill it. And I did use a cheap jet kit so I guess that's a possibility to worth the needle valve not seating properly. You guys Advises me against cheap jets but I already had them bought I'll know now for next time. I did try adjusting just the number 1 carb after noticing it was still leaking but no luck yet.

Joshhk4 · « **Reply #44 on:** March 11, 2017, 05:10:41 AM »

Heres a video of the second start up

rickmoore24 · « **Reply #45 on:** March 11, 2017, 10:00:32 PM »

If it's not a crack in the overflow tube, it's more than likely the float is set to the wrong height and/or the needle/float valve is having issues. Make sure you have the washer/gasket on the float valve too. If it's a cheap kit the needle may not seal perfectly in the float valve either so it could be a combination of things at this point. Hope fully you can find the issue without too much trouble.

What I like to do is drop the float bowl and hold up the float with the needle fully compressed and turn on the petcock. If it's leaking with the float fully engaging the needle and sealing the float valve then you've found the issue, if it's not leaking from anywhere else. Thankfully it's the #1 and easy to get to!

Joshhk4 · « **Reply #46 on:** March 12, 2017, 07:35:43 AM »

Thanks rickmoore24 good ideas as well I'm pretty sure the washer is in there but I'll definitely double check. And I'll try manually compressing the valve with the gas on that's a good idea. Thanks

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Joshhk4 · « **Reply #47 on:** March 13, 2017, 05:05:34 PM »

Quick question if I should ask somwhere else let me know I'm still pretty new. I work nights so a lot of my riding will be at night. I do like the stock headlight look but could sacrifice a little on looks for it to be brighter. It doesn't work right now so I'm assuming it's toast anyway but haven't looked into it much yet. But what does everybody use to get more light? Stay with stock typed sealed headlight and clean everything up, halogen, led, hid? Or what and what's required to do so?

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calj737 · « **Reply #48 on:** March 13, 2017, 05:48:47 PM »

Many replace with a quality H4 unit. Be mindful of the wattage as they draw a lot of current from our older charging system. 45/55 Watt units work just fine.

Joshhk4 · « **Reply #49 on:** March 13, 2017, 07:40:36 PM »

Thanks calj I did put on a new regulator/ rectifier you think that'd allow me to get by with a higher wattage bulb? Or should I still aim for 45/55?

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Author Topic: First build new to working on bikes in general. Open to tips, criticism, comment (Read 5798 times)