Topic: This is my first CB750F

[Johnny340]

I've read a lot of posts and builds and have learned a lot from you guys already!!  Thank you!
I started this post to gain more knowledge & opinions and maybe even help somebody else who reads this.  Thanks in advance for your help!

I'm starting with a 1975 CB750F with 35000 miles on it (which I plan to rebuild).  I have decided to use '07 GSXR forks and a Cognito Moto hub.  I just built both wheels which are 17" to hopefully make up for the difference in offset of the triple clamps.  (I may still need longer shocks.)  I have some Motogadget goodies including M-unit and Chronoclassic.  I decided to use the Suzuki top triple clamp to incorporate the steering lock (see below) as well as the GSXR switches which will be a challenge to wire up, I'm sure.

The question for today is, what do you guys think of this roughed in mount for a bates style headlight which allows the steering dampener to move below it.  Do you foresee any problems with this setup?  I think I'll need to space it up a bit higher so the headlight bolt clears the dampener once I drill the hole for it.
Thanks,
John

[WesTenRacing]

Looks and sounds like a cool project.
To answer "todays question", operationally it will be fine.  If you want the light to be as low as possible use a button head from the bottom up.  The clearance needed for it is minimal. IMHO if you want the light higher make taller risers instead of spacing the light itself.   

[70CB750]

Following.

[GV1390]

Really digging that wheel setup! Looks mint.

[BLAC]

I agree, that color looks great on those hoops!

[Johnny340]

...and, you might create a small recess on top or from below, to help "lock" the headlight into a position so that it doesn't rotate due to vibration or turbulence. That's the only weakness to the Bates style mounts is their single screw. 

Thanks for the replies guys.  Cal I like your idea of a recess to keep it from rotating.  I haven't done that yet because I'm not sure I like it's position sticking out so far to clear the ignition switch. (didn't you recommend the M-key to go with my Motogadget stuff once  ....but I was infatuated with having a steering lock..)  I raised it up to clear the damper better but then it had to go outward to clear the ignition switch..  I might be able to push it in a bit.

Before I add a recess and make it perfectly symmetrical, etc what is the feeling with this size of headlight mounted like it is?

[Johnny340]

I'd prefer the light be lower, more centered within the top clamp-lower clamp space.
Is there a reason you don't run your stabilize underneath the bottom clamp?

I wasn't sure how I could mount the body of the stabilizer to the frame any other way.  I welded in a bung as low as possible on the headtube and the boss on the triple clamp was there already which was convenient. (see pic)
I could slim down the actual mount that came with the headlight or as already suggested use a button head style bolt but I don't think that would make enough difference.  Maybe I could make a rectangular Bates lower block that I could bolt in from the top directly into the bracket I made which could then be lowered at least 1/2" with nothing sticking out the bottom??

[Johnny340]

Maybe what's throwing me off is the silver tubes, silver triples, and chrome headlight bucket. It just makes everything look busy to me visually.

Once I'm done with the fab work I'll powder coat the triple clamps satin black and probably do the damper too.  The fork tubes have been re-anodized that colour which hopefully doesn't clash with the chrome headlight.  (maybe I should have got a black headlight?)

I took apart the Bates mount hardware and will be able to bolt in down to my bracket from the top.  This will lower the headlight 1/2" and with nothing sticking out the bottom of my bracket, I can lower that a 1/2" as well.  That should make it look more centered.

[Johnny340]

I should add: sometime during mock up things look out of place. So you can ignore my comments about what looks right... It's hard to know what's in everyone's mind when they're building a bike and I've fallen victim to offering an opinion that's irrelevant.

I appreciate all opinions so I don't powder coat something and then discover it's not right!
I think I have it better now.

[Johnny340]

I took a break from the headlight today and drilled my rear rotor.  It's not my favourite pattern but it matches the GSXR fronts.
Easy to do yourself btw.  I used a pattern over the rotor and center punched each hole then drilled a 1/8" pilot hole followed by a 9/32" final hole.  I got a good cobalt drill bit, used lots of cutting fluid to keep the heat down, and only needed one bit of each size.  I chose to chamfer the holes after.

[Johnny340]

I decided to make the swingarm brace on the bottom.  It had to be slightly non-symetrical to clear the chain with this gearing but once everything is powdercoated I don't think it will be that obvious.  I've seen bracing with additional tubes attaching midway as well as something at the front but I think I'll stick with just the two I have at the front now.  Comments on that idea?
I also had to cut the rear caliper stay to go wider so it would clear the 160 tire.

[WesTenRacing]

Nice job on the rotor.  I like the swingarm brace. I did the same.   

[Johnny340]

Nice job on the rotor.  I like the swingarm brace. I did the same.   

I see you did the extra bracing I was debating on.  That looks really good! Especially with the round 550 tubes.  Any opinions on adding that to the 750 swingarm?

[Johnny340]

Does the F arm still use the same square tubing as the early Ks?
And honestly, the bracing looks great, but its pretty much overkill for a near stock bike in my opinion.

I believe it does have the same tubing style (but may be a little longer  )  Yes, round/round matches better and I agree the whole idea is overkill but admittedly it's more for looks.

[WesTenRacing]

Nice job on the rotor.  I like the swingarm brace. I did the same.   

I see you did the extra bracing I was debating on.  That looks really good! Especially with the round 550 tubes.  Any opinions on adding that to the 750 swingarm?

I agree with Cal that the bracing is overkill but aesthetically I like it.    You don't need the extra tubes but it may help the look you're after.  I was going to use the 750 swingarm and cut up another 750 one so that the tubing was uniform but I don't believe the result would have been acceptable.  There would be a lot of sectioning to make that idea work.  I took the easy route.   

[WesTenRacing]

Country?!  We're from different countries       OCD must be international 

[Johnny340]

Can you source another, cut and section it, and make your new brace from the donor? It would give you the same tubing and dimensions.

I never even thought of that.  (I have 3 'spare' 750 swingarms in my shed too!)  That 'tubing' is pretty thick so I have a feeling it would have had to stick out the left side a bit too far to clear the chain..  I'll probably stick with what I have started on now.  Easy route! 

[Kafe]

Looking good. Love the 160

[Johnny340]

Got the oil tank finished today.  Still need to polish the stainless steel and make mounting tabs.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Hey that looks pretty good.  You might want to think about installing a sight glass to be able to check the oil level without having to open the tank.

[Medyo Bastos]

I should add: sometime during mock up things look out of place. So you can ignore my comments about what looks right... It's hard to know what's in everyone's mind when they're building a bike and I've fallen victim to offering an opinion that's irrelevant.

Just bust out that bike and get it on the road!

that is a really good point.  build it the way that you want, and ride it with your head up high!  good work young skywalker!

[Johnny340]

If you heat that up with propane, you can hit with a loose knot stainless brush in your grinder and polish it clean. Use a stainless toothbrush and hit your welds immmediately after welding and they come clean so much easier (when hot). Follow up with a ScothBrite disc, and she'll be mirrored up in no time!

I'll try that, thank you!

I welded on the rearset mounts..Some adjustment and linkage sorting still to do.  Still just mocking things up to see how they fit before I strip it right down and powdercoat the frame and a lot of parts.

[Johnny340]

Making some progress on the engine.. (836 Wiseco with CX-3 Cam)

[Johnny340]

Making some progress on the engine.. (836 Wiseco with CX-3 Cam)

Got the frame kit in.
Now trying to figure out how to mount that seat pan. Originally I was thinking about covering the whole thing in leather but am considering just a seat pad in leather and painting the sides and cowl. Does ABS plastic paint up ok?

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[Johnny340]

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[/quote]Seat pan mounts, battery box, and Stainless electrical box done.

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