Author Topic: This is my first CB750F (Read 14452 times)

Johnny340 · « **Reply #50 on:** February 13, 2018, 10:31:45 AM »

Quote from: slikwilli420 on February 13, 2018, 10:28:29 AM

Bad ass! Is that a wrap or hydro dip?

Hydro Dip. It stretched a bit at the bottom but turned out pretty well for so many compound corners. The adhesion promoter and flex agent were for the primer and clear coat on the ABS seat pan/cowl.

Johnny340 · « **Reply #51 on:** February 22, 2018, 03:43:14 PM »

More progress today.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Johnny340 · « **Reply #52 on:** February 22, 2018, 03:45:08 PM »

Temp sensor bracket and master cylinder bracket to be powder coated. Front and rear brakes bled, shifter and clutch hooked up today.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Johnny340 · « **Reply #53 on:** February 22, 2018, 03:46:22 PM »

Motogadget stuff is super high quality!

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #54 on:** February 22, 2018, 04:24:35 PM »

Are those the hard or soft M-Grips?

Johnny340 · « **Reply #55 on:** February 22, 2018, 04:27:39 PM »

Soft

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Godffery · « **Reply #56 on:** February 23, 2018, 06:45:20 PM »

Dig'n your solution for the Shifert / RearSet alignment!

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #57 on:** February 24, 2018, 12:24:32 AM »

Quote from: Johnny340 on February 22, 2018, 04:27:39 PM

Soft

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Cool. Let us know how they work out. They look grippy but I'm wondering if they offer enough "give" to dampen vibration and combat fatigue.

Johnny340 · « **Reply #58 on:** March 08, 2018, 08:33:28 PM »

Wiring done! It's like cheating using Motogadget.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Johnny340 · « **Reply #59 on:** March 09, 2018, 06:15:25 PM »

Only some tinkering left to do.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #60 on:** March 10, 2018, 11:15:47 AM »

Looks cool...how's it ride?

Johnny340 · « **Reply #61 on:** March 10, 2018, 04:29:35 PM »

Quote from: seanbarney41 on March 10, 2018, 11:15:47 AM

Looks cool...how's it ride?

Thx. It's a beast. I only have 10 minutes on it so far.
I need to figure out the jetting. I put in bigger pilots, and 4 steps up on the mains but it still hangs high and doesn't want to idle down right away. Sounds lean so I think I'll try raising the needles. Make sense? Also 2 carbs seem to have sticking float valves because they overflow...
Comments welcomed.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #62 on:** March 10, 2018, 07:40:55 PM »

A pipe that short wants a lot of gas...I learned from my hand bent Yoshimura...plus you got pods. I would suggest an inner fender of some sort so the back wheel doesn't fling crap all over that neat oil tank and the engine. All it would take is some alloy sheet tie wrapped in there to look good too...looks unfinished to me without something

Johnny340 · « **Reply #63 on:** March 11, 2018, 10:37:22 AM »

Quote from: seanbarney41 on March 10, 2018, 07:40:55 PM

A pipe that short wants a lot of gas...I learned from my hand bent Yoshimura...plus you got pods. I would suggest an inner fender of some sort so the back wheel doesn't fling crap all over that neat oil tank and the engine. All it would take is some alloy sheet tie wrapped in there to look good too...looks unfinished to me without something

Originally I didn't think I needed an inner fender but you are right, it definitely could use one. Plus it's amazing how much crap flicks up from the clean roads! That's on my list now.
I did powder coat a few last items. Any suggestions on how to secure the wires for the speed sensor pickup which I mounted near the rear hub? It needs to attach to the swingarm somehow.

calj737 · « **Reply #64 on:** March 11, 2018, 05:00:32 PM »

Quote from: Johnny340 on March 11, 2018, 10:37:22 AM

Any suggestions on how to secure the wires for the speed sensor pickup which I mounted near the rear hub?

Yeah, move it. Install it under the front sprocket cover, with the magnet being one of the front sprocket bolts (you can find 6mm Magnetic bolts for this exact install). The sensor then is installed within a small tab of sheet metal (you fabricate) that is positioned opposite the sprocket bolt. All this is neatly tucked under the cover, the sensor wires run with the stator/oil/neutral wires up to the gauge. Clean, neat, out of sight. And dead nuts accurate.

Johnny340 · « **Reply #65 on:** March 11, 2018, 08:57:32 PM »

Quote from: calj737 on March 11, 2018, 05:00:32 PM

Quote from: Johnny340 on March 11, 2018, 10:37:22 AM
Any suggestions on how to secure the wires for the speed sensor pickup which I mounted near the rear hub?
Yeah, move it. Install it under the front sprocket cover, with the magnet being one of the front sprocket bolts (you can find 6mm Magnetic bolts for this exact install). The sensor then is installed within a small tab of sheet metal (you fabricate) that is positioned opposite the sprocket bolt. All this is neatly tucked under the cover, the sensor wires run with the stator/oil/neutral wires up to the gauge. Clean, neat, out of sight. And dead nuts accurate.

Isn't that a genius idea?! Where were you when I was making the rear bracket... I'll do that. So to set the correct 'wheel size' based on the counter sprocket size is it simple math: 48/(counter sprocket teeth) * 1884 Yes?

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

calj737 · « **Reply #66 on:** March 11, 2018, 09:02:34 PM »

Nope, continue to use the rear wheel diameter. You may need to slightly adjust the gauge’s calculations if you can pace your bike with an auto using Cruise Control. I did mine from 30, 40, 50 and 60. I think I. Needed a 10mm change (if I recall correctly the adjustment measurement).

Johnny340 · « **Reply #67 on:** March 11, 2018, 09:07:29 PM »

Quote from: calj737 on March 11, 2018, 09:02:34 PM

Nope, continue to use the rear wheel diameter. You may need to slightly adjust the gauge’s calculations if you can pace your bike with an auto using Cruise Control. I did mine from 30, 40, 50 and 60. I think I. Needed a 10mm change (if I recall correctly the adjustment measurement).

Oh ok I was thinking that it would be going around roughly 3 times as fast. Yes pacing would be the most accurate. I like that clean install idea!
So how do I get the Motoscope to read the oil temp? I see T1 for air or water temp but no oil temp setting..
Thx

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

calj737 · « **Reply #68 on:** March 12, 2018, 05:32:02 AM »

Well, you have a MotoScope Classic if your pictures aren't lying. Oil Temp requires use of their Temperature Sensor (https://motogadget.com/shop/en/checkout/cart/)

The Oil Temp sensor wires to WHT/BLK of the gauge.
From the manual: "11.3.8 Temperature Display T2, Oil Temperature (oil)
This value shows the current oil temperature as soon as it is inside the measuring range of the sensor. The definition of limits is equivalent to the one described for T1." Page 12

Johnny340 · « **Reply #69 on:** March 12, 2018, 07:43:44 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on March 12, 2018, 05:32:02 AM

Well, you have a MotoScope Classic if your pictures aren't lying. Oil Temp requires use of their Temperature Sensor (https://motogadget.com/shop/en/checkout/cart/)

The Oil Temp sensor wires to WHT/BLK of the gauge.
From the manual: "11.3.8 Temperature Display T2, Oil Temperature (oil)
This value shows the current oil temperature as soon as it is inside the measuring range of the sensor. The definition of limits is equivalent to the one described for T1." Page 12

Yes I meant to write Motoscope classic! Ok I am connected to that white wire and I have that one wire sensor in the link. The oil pressure red light doesn't work either.. Assuming the stock Honda sender works for that, I'm thinking I haven't set up the limit ranges for these and that's required??

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

calj737 · « **Reply #70 on:** March 12, 2018, 10:15:31 AM »

WHT/BLK wire for Temp, right?

The stock OIL pressure switch is BLU/RED and wires to gauge WHITE. This is the "pressure" input on the gauge. You won't need the OIL warning light range. The switch opens and closes based upon pressure, interrupting the signal. If you want pressure range, you'll need to use the MotoG pressure switch.

Johnny340 · « **Reply #71 on:** March 12, 2018, 04:03:46 PM »

Quote from: calj737 on March 12, 2018, 10:15:31 AM

WHT/BLK wire for Temp, right?

The stock OIL pressure switch is BLU/RED and wires to gauge WHITE. This is the "pressure" input on the gauge. You won't need the OIL warning light range. The switch opens and closes based upon pressure, interrupting the signal. If you want pressure range, you'll need to use the MotoG pressure switch.

Yes WHT/BLK for the Oil temperature input.

I need to proofread before sending...
I connected the Honda Oil Pressure switch to the WHT. (I also have a direct mechanical pressure gauge.)
So once I set the limits in both the Temp and Oil pressure both indications worked perfect. Thanks Cal!

I also have a sticky neutral switch too. (oh those 40 year old parts...) If I remove the locking tab and pull the entire brass unit out without draining the oil, will it look like the Exxon Valdez in my garage?

Johnny340 · « **Reply #72 on:** March 12, 2018, 07:45:02 PM »

Carbs synced.
Lowered needle clips. Running really good now. Especially after cleaning the tank...Again.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

calj737 · « **Reply #73 on:** March 13, 2018, 04:32:34 AM »

Johnny - Is your tank bare metal inside? If so, you might try this product Master Series Silver. Another member, Pete was so damn adamant about it, I gave it a go. Its a moisture cured "primer" that you dump in, tumble once or twice, pour out. Let stand for 2-3 days, voila, done. Ethanol and gas resistant, and super thin, and no other chemicals. I'm impressed with it.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #74 on:** March 13, 2018, 08:19:44 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on March 13, 2018, 04:32:34 AM

Johnny - Is your tank bare metal inside? If so, you might try this product Master Series Silver. Another member, Pete was so damn adamant about it, I gave it a go. Its a moisture cured "primer" that you dump in, tumble once or twice, pour out. Let stand for 2-3 days, voila, done. Ethanol and gas resistant, and super thin, and no other chemicals. I'm impressed with it.

Hey, Cal. Are you referring to the Primer/Sealer Silver product: https://shop.masterseriesct.com/product.sc;jsessionid=E94EE496B956F91F16821D32D396CC33.p3plqscsfapp006?productId=6&categoryId=1 ?
It looks like a pint would be sufficient for a gas tank. Probably a lot thinner coat than Caswell epoxy.

News:

Author Topic: This is my first CB750F (Read 14452 times)