Topic: Drill vs impact driver vs hammer drill

[AlekStooge]

I'm thinking about getting myself an early Christmas gift. I mainly work with metal. From what I'm told I won't need a hammer drill since I never intend on working with concrete....but sometimes I do need to drill steal as thick as 1/4 in. I've used a regular drill on steal that thick and had a lot of trouble drilling through.

An impact drill seems like a step up from the regular drill because of the rotational impact force. However the downside seems is the bits all will need to be hex's.

Trying it to keep it $$$ conscious, since I'm not the only one I'll be buying presents for.

What do you guys recommend?

[martin99]

An impact driver is a device for loosening tight screws (and sometimes tightening screws). Impact drivers usually come with a selection of bits. Impact drivers are not used to drill holes.

Never heard of an impact drill, although I can see how some may refer to a hammer drill as such. Hammer drills are good IMO - as long as you get a quality one. They are generally a bit heavier and more substantial than a regular hand-held drill, and can be set to 'hammer-off' if that's what you want.

Often the nature of your work and application dictates the equipment you need. For most of us here, who are not engineers by trade, a decent pillar drill and a decent hand-held (battery or mains) is all we need to get by.

You should not have any trouble drilling a hole in 1/4 steel using a conventional hand-held drill, unless it's stainless then yes I agree that can be a different story. Ever heard the saying 'a bad workman always blames his tools?' (not that I am intending to cause offence). Mostly it's about technique (speed and lubrication, choice of pilot hole) and importantly, that your drill bits are sharp.

[AlekStooge]

Martin, I got tied up on my words I meant impact driver not drill.

I guess the hammer drill is not necessary. I rather spend the money on the quality drill bits. I won't be drilling metal on a daily bases so I won't need the mag drill. I primarily plan on drilling so the impact driver is out.

Decision made, an 18V drill is what I'll get + quality drill bits.

Thanks guys

[martin99]

Hey, sorry if I sounded picky, I think you've made a good decision there, you can always add to your tool collection later on, although I would recommend you add an impact driver to your Christmas list too, these don't have to be expensive and the first stubborn case screw you come across you'll wish you had one. Mag drill eh? Gotta love this forum, never even heard of one, still learning!
 

[70CB750]

For steel drilling it is important to be able to slow rpms down.  Bench top drill press is all you need.

[grcamna2]

I use a Craftsman 19.2vt. cordless drill and just upgraded to a 19.2vt. Li-ion battery for it and she will cut through most size steel that I need done.I use a very hard 'starter bit' 1/8", to start the hole and then go up incrementally one bit at a time to the one I need.
I bought a 'hammer drill' about 10 yrs. back for $59.00 on sale,it has a 1/2" drive Jacobs chuck w/ a removable side handle but it's not a large size drill and fit's in my roll-away toolbox drawer easily along w/ my other power tools.The drill is 115vt. house current and has to be plugged in.I like that it has 2 settings,one for hammer drill or the other for just standard drilling.The drill is a 1/2 hp. Craftsman,variable speed and geared-down powerful for it's size;when you're drilling through thick steel you need the accessory side handle screwed-in tight as that drill is powerful enough to spin your hand w/o it.

[grcamna2]

For steel drilling it is important to be able to slow rpms down.  Bench top drill press is all you need.

I need one of those too,you have a pic of yours Prokop ?

[70CB750]

For steel drilling it is important to be able to slow rpms down.  Bench top drill press is all you need.

I need one of those too,you have a pic of yours Prokop ?

I bought one from TSC, cheap floor model, it works ok, but ever since I got a milling machine I use it for almost everything.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/black-bull-16-speed-drill-press?cm_mmc%3DSEM-_-Google-_-DynamicAdGroups-_-AllSiteTSC2016Week49CyberSale&gclid=CjwKEAiAyO_BBRDOgM-K8MGWpmYSJACePQ9CY8tJP8uhkfyflHmFQQyvPEYumLV_zhsHa2hKGvMlHBoCoNLw_wcB

[grcamna2]

Nice looking milling machine and the floor standing model drill press from Tractor Supply.
I would like to get a bench-top small drill press that does the job,you ever have one of those ?

[AlekStooge]

Drill press is defintely on my to get list. The hand drill will do for now.

[70CB750]

For steel drilling it is important to be able to slow rpms down.  Bench top drill press is all you need.

Unless you need to drill a 6'x4' piece of 5/8" steel... Or drill something overhead, upside down, or on a vertical plane 

You never bench pressed drill press? 

[strynboen]

have 3 drill presses..low rpm is importment drilling iron
often they use a 1400 rpm engine..better is to thange to a 900 rpm and more powerfull engine..on the small 1 fase drills.
.the 3 fase can better do it stock..i have build working light in mine..use a cup drill to make hole for the led..and put a 12v trafo inside too..

the small drill have got a bigger engine..it helped to drill 10-13 mm holes

thek aut the thepy small ones..some are real fine..but others use plastic. vheels.as belt drive  and plastic handels..they are too soft..thek them personly..dont bay at internet..or best thek somones vho had one for some time..and go spec for that modell

[AlekStooge]

Got a drill driver and impact driver combo because it was a good deal for $150 with 2 batteries and the charger.

[grcamna2]

Got a drill driver and impact driver combo because it was a good deal for $150 with 2 batteries and the charger.

 
                got any pics of it ?

[grcamna2]

That is a good quality looking bench-top drill press stryboen.
Does that one have a date of manufacture in the 1980's or 90's ?

[strynboen]

its 1990..both.

..think they put more plastic in later...so go after a old used..both china is fine for moderat hard Work..a oldscool drill is alvays better..but costs and vaight a lot more..

[bill440cars]

      Myself, I have a variety of drills: 18v Cordless, that works pretty well, for most of what I need. Then, I have 1/4", 3/8" & 1/2" Corded Hand Drills. Then I have 2 Drill Presses (1- Bench Model & 1- Floor Model). The Bench model came from my Granddad's Motorcycle Shop & though it is very old, still works great. Then, the floor model is  Probably from Harbor Freight (Inherited from my Dad). And I thought I had a decent supply of drill bits, til I got those from my Dad, He had a sizable collection of all kinds of drill bits (for Wood, Masonry & Metal.  When ya gotta drill, ya need to be prepared and I think I am pretty well covered myself.   

And, an impact driver was mentioned, if a person doesn't have one of those and tries to remove some of these screws on a motorcycle, you can end up having to drill the screws out and getting new screws. But, even if you DO have an impact driver, be sure to hold it firmly, or you can still mess up some screws. Speaking from experience, on this too. SMH        

[AlekStooge]

Got a drill driver and impact driver combo because it was a good deal for $150 with 2 batteries and the charger.

 
                got any pics of it ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/282262528592?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[firebane]

1/4" impact will be more useful than you could imagine. Need to fix that deck with some screws? Use the impact. Need to hang something on the wall and need to drill into that stud? Impact.

I picked up a used Milwaukee 1/4" Impact for $100 the other and won't look back.

[AlekStooge]

Got Hertel cobalt 1/16-1/2 drill bits from MSC. I was going to get the oxide or bright finish but these were on sale down to $125 from $225. 

They also had an oxide 115 piece set with wire sizes for $160 but I don't need to make holes that precise so I passed.

[Duke McDukiedook]

Damn, Stryn. How did you get a 3 phase hookup at your house?
I looked into phase converters when I was looking for a delta unisaw but for the size I needed I was better off just getting the single phase motor saws since a three phase drop at the house would have been insanely expensive and I don't think they would have done it anyway.
 

[strynboen]

in denmark ve had a veak singel fase..only rated to 10 amp so to pull heigher effekts all houses had 16 amp 3 fase 380 volt. as minium

.but today ve have gone to eu standart..vho have more amps in the singel fase think 12-16 amp..but all viring and konnektors..need some years to grov /thange to thikker vires..back then all heating dinner/ vashers vas 3 fase

....nowEU thanged the 3 fase to 400 volt..but most home Machinery vho are sold now is singel fase    singel fase make the new EU standart..

but a vaste as the 3 fase vas powerfull in vater heaters- elektric huose Varming..and all elektric motore vas nice powerfull..and not need kondensators and start kickers...so ve are going backverds to more old primitive systems..strange the germens not can hold the heigh standart in Europa..a small contry as denmark can not go solo..ve have 70% vind energy..and need to be koupled to the big grid..to get power the less windy days..
i have tryed to bay a 3 fase vashing machine..but they are gone

[MikeSimon]

Impact drivers provide a rotational/tangential impact used to loosen and tighten fasteners. Hammer drills/drivers use an axial impact to drill holes into masonry.
Neither one is proper for drilling holes into steel or any other metal. As previous posters point out, the proper bits are essential to drill steel.
I have two drill presses, one bench-top and one large self standing, a hand-held 24V cordless (Black & Decker Firestorm) with a hammer setting and a 110V impact driver. All potential jobs are covered.