Topic: JMR billet engine build

[Syscrush]

Your engine has some torque.
DID  520ZVM-X or similar might work. "MAX. 1200 C.C.   Super Strong/High Mileage"

People are using 520 chains on 180+ hp racebikes. If you're willing to keep an eye on it and change when necessary it will have absolutely no problem keeping up with any SOHC4 Honda you could build. I would expect it to be less maintenance than a non-O-ring 530 chain - there's also a question of looks/style. I think a 520 looks great, but obviously that's a personal thing and it's up to FrodeF2!

[slikwilli420]

Im doing a 520 conversion on my race bike. Modern chain materials blow the old stuff away. 630 chain is ridiculous and 530 is pretty overkill on these bikes. 520 come in a ton of flavors like o-ring and x-ring. I went with the DID 520 VX2 chain. The x-ring design cuts down substantially on friction compared to traditional o-ring versions and is very strong. Rebel gears will hook you up with 520 conversion sprockets for a decent price.

[PeWe]

Im doing a 520 conversion on my race bike. Modern chain materials blow the old stuff away. 630 chain is ridiculous and 530 is pretty overkill on these bikes. 520 come in a ton of flavors like o-ring and x-ring. I went with the DID 520 VX2 chain. The x-ring design cuts down substantially on friction compared to traditional o-ring versions and is very strong. Rebel gears will hook you up with 520 conversion sprockets for a decent price.

OK, so DID 520 VX2 chain withstand a modfied CB750?
I have a DID 530 VX for my next project, probably 836cc and around 80 RWHP. I thought it should be too weak for my 1005cc
Good that the chains have improved.

[innovativems]

Im doing a 520 conversion on my race bike. Modern chain materials blow the old stuff away. 630 chain is ridiculous and 530 is pretty overkill on these bikes. 520 come in a ton of flavors like o-ring and x-ring. I went with the DID 520 VX2 chain. The x-ring design cuts down substantially on friction compared to traditional o-ring versions and is very strong. Rebel gears will hook you up with 520 conversion sprockets for a decent price.

OK, so DID 520 VX2 chain withstand a modfied CB750?
I have a DID 530 VX for my next project, probably 836cc and around 80 RWHP. I thought it should be too weak for my 1005cc
Good that the chains have improved.

I run 520 on my 1000cc sport bikes and they hold up great.  They are more then enough for the inline fours


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[PeWe]

OK, good to have that verified. Snapped chain thru the block is the nightmare....

[frodef2]

Good news. I found a cheaper solution. Mount the shocks according to the manual.



I had mounted the shocks the other way.  After turning the cleavis and putting the spacer on the right side on the frame mount, i have loads of space



Frode j


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[frodef2]

I spent the better part of this morning designing a housing for my motogadget chronoclassic rpm/speedo.  Then the next 7.5 hours 3d printing it.






I made the inner diameter of the bowl at 80mm. The same as the outer diameter of the motogadget speedo. The fit was so tight i had a hard time getting it to the bottom.

I made a small cut in the bowl, and it is still so thight i had to expand it with a screw driver to make it fit.



I am still waiting for the clamps to print.


Frode j


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[kmb69]

I spent the better part of this morning designing a housing for my motogadget chronoclassic rpm/speedo.  Then the next 7.5 hours 3d printing it.
.....
I made the inner diameter of the bowl at 80mm. The same as the outer diameter of the motogadget speedo. The fit was so tight i had a hard time getting it to the bottom.
.....
I made a small cut in the bowl, and it is still so thight i had to expand it with a screw driver to make it fit.
.....
I am still waiting for the clamps to print.

Frode j

Are you printing aluminum? What brand is the printer?

[frodef2]

No, plastic. Metal 3d printing is out of my leauge. I print in PETG plastic on my Prusa i3 mk2.

The plastic happened to be grey, almost like cast aluminium.


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[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

No, plastic. Metal 3d printing is out of my leauge. I print in PETG plastic on my Prusa i3 mk2.

The plastic happened to be grey, almost like cast aluminium.


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Pretty cool.  Is the printed housing just for prototyping or will it have the strength to hold up as a working mount?

[frodef2]

If i can get the layer bonding to be as strong as possible, it will hold up. But i have had problems with delamination with the PETG carbon fill plastic. So for now i am using straight PETG.

I made a test print with basic PLA plastic. It was surprisingly strong and had great layer adhesion. I was unable to make it delaminate. Too bad PLA has low temperature resistance. It starts to get soft at around 60c.

I will have to continue to tweak the PETG profile on my 3d printer to get the peints to be as stong as the PLA print.


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[Bankerdanny]

I spent the better part of this morning designing a housing for my motogadget chronoclassic rpm/speedo.  Then the next 7.5 hours 3d printing it.






I made the inner diameter of the bowl at 80mm. The same as the outer diameter of the motogadget speedo. The fit was so tight i had a hard time getting it to the bottom.

I made a small cut in the bowl, and it is still so thight i had to expand it with a screw driver to make it fit.



I am still waiting for the clamps to print.


Frode j


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Slick, but you need to run a metal nail file through that opening to clean it up.

[MRieck]

I don't know how robust that material is but that slot is and there isn't a lot of material below it. You can tell me to shut up anytime Frode.

[frodef2]

I don't know how robust that material is but that slot is and there isn't a lot of material below it. You can tell me to shut up anytime Frode.

No worries, its is only meant to be a prototype. I am currently printing a new version where i have corrected a few mistakes that i made in the design. the current revision is 6.4 according to Fusion360.

version 5 failed to print, and made what i can only describe as a hairball.

i will use the test item to see how durable it is, and to test what paint i can use.

frode j

[turkey4me]

I'm digging your build Frode.  Would love to see a side by side photo of your block compared to stock.  I do have one question, is that phone hanging on the wall a smart phone?

[frodef2]

I dont have pictures of a stock block and the billet together.

But check out the sticky over at the high performance forum

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,49438.0.html


It has all the information on these wonders.

Frode j


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[frodef2]

Finished the headlight bracket and put on the stock seat and a modified k rear fender.

The shortie seat is at a local upholstery company. Too bad they had a 2 month backlog so with the summer holiday maybe i get it in august.

Anyway.. the stock f look is almost better. Guess I'm getting old.

The speedo mount might have to be changed, as it looks a bit strange with the headlight in this position. I will decide later what to do.

Frode j



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[frodef2]

I tried to do a road test today, but had to abort after about 3km (2 miles). The front wheel was about to sieze up on me. There is a problem with either the master cylinder, or the calliper.
.


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[frodef2]

The selfbraking front brake was caused by a improperly mounted brake lever. I reseated  the piston arm in the lever and it works. No wonder the brake was a nightmare to bleed.


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[frodef2]

I have now driven about 100 miles on the bike. And its very clear that the clutch that was ok with the 900cc HA kit with the stock cam, is no match for the 1000cc of awesomeness that is the JMR billet. I have a APE clutch kit on its way to Norway as i write this.

I am also in the process of mounting a datalogger on the bike. There are no bikeshops around me that are good at adjusting carbs anymore. Its all powercommanders and stuff. So i decided that i should get a datalogger,  and check the afr myself.

I have made this bracket for the rs34 carbs to be able to mount a TPS.





Together with wideband lambda and rpm input i should be able to dial in the carbs perfectly.







The tps is a cheap unit sourced from a hyundai tiburon. And the bracket is printed on my pla 3d printer. If anyone want the drawing, let me know and ill send it to you.


Frode


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[MRieck]

Nice work Frode. Very useful too.

[frodef2]

Testing the logger with temporary wiring.



Lambda position



Just need to hook up the rpm signal from the dyna. Since I'm using the 1/1 signal for the motogadget, i will use the 1/2 signal for the logger.



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[Sam Green Racing]

Looks awesome Frode, well done on a great build.
Have you any objection to me nominating it for the Bike Of the Month competition when the nominating thread opens shortly ?

Sam.

[frodef2]

The ZT-2 is installed.

Here is a short video of the bike at idle. sorry for the vertical video.

Now i only have to wait for it to stop raining. And receive and install the new APE clutch.

Frode

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Badass!! Love the way the 1000's sound. Great install with the meter setup. A lot of work but it will be right.