Kippstakes, just to make sure, the mark that has to be aligned for setting the timing (static) is the yellow mark in my picture (5o). Forgive me for bringing this up, but I thought I'd better ask after looking at the photo in your Reply #39 where the double marks of total advance line up with the case mark. I suppose that's a coincidence but we must be sure. Another thing. After I studied your photo's once more, I'd like you to do a simple test with the ignition off. First, have some plastic, business card or whatever between both sets of breakerpoints (left, 1+4 as well as right, 2+3) so both sets are isolated (both are open as it were). Then hold one probe of your ohmmeter against the spade connectors at breakerpoint 1+4 and the other against the groundplate and see if these spade connectors accidentely ground. Repeat with 2+3. Please report back.
I inserted cardboard bits in the points and it looks like no grounds are being made-- my light stays on throughout the crank rotation.
However, I did get the bike to start the other day, with more kicking than I would expect to have to do. This happened after it dawned on me that both points don't have to be the gapped the same, and one might adjust each breaker to change timing. It worked, but the bike still starts hard, and wouldn't start yesterday. Something is still wrong.
I will keep at it.
Thank you
Kippstakes, I've been going through the same situation over the last year. i'll try to adjust points 1/4 and then after getting that, i'll go to the plate setting for timing and it's on the max advance mark or close to it. I can bump the plate up and it get's kind of close but still off too far that adjustments don't work anymore, if I go back and try to set the points again, then the plate, same thing.I found out yesterday, that to set the 1/4 points and the timing of the 1/4 side of the plate, the only way i could figure it out was by not shimming nothing, as that would add another task to the procedure and i wanted to set the disc as it rest' naturally in it's recess, i knew there had to be a why to do it. So it occurred to me that loosening the plate threw in too many angles of change, both sets of point cam lobes that change with the advancer and rotation of the crankshaft, would mean a consistent error that i could not figure out, and I could not get the F mark to come back to the mark in the case. so to eliminate that step of loosening the plate, I took into consideration where the recommended procedure left the F mark, it was far advanced. so I thought I'll set the plate first only I'll set it retarded as much as it was ending up in the advanced position, and then I went back to the 1/4 points and the dwell I think was around 35'. so as I was closing that while holding a timing light on the timing change from the points adjustments alone the F mark lined up with the case mark and i was at 51' dwell. I cinched the plate and 1/4 points and they were correct and solid. Now by getting the f mark on it's case mark, changing, any setting on the 3/4 timing plate and dwell would not alter the locked in 1/4 points and timing, then in the morning it took less than a minute to put the dwell and timing of #3/4 exactly as 1/4. it worked, in the past 30 yrs on this bike, I ride it constantly, never synced it, no leak down test. when getting the timing in tune by standard procedures it was pain in the but, with this new way, i realized what matters the most is "where" I was at the end as far as the dwell and timing positions, and "How" I got there was just an easier way, to get control of the F mark, the bike runs very well now. this way would of been a better way for the manual instructions, than what the current instructions read. try it, you'll be surprised on how easy and accurate it is. dwell meter and strobe timing light. that's all.
