Topic: idle issues

[evinrude7]

just went thru the carbs pretty well.  they're clean.  still having issue with idle and cutting out.  unless i have the idle screw set at or above 1200 rpm it seems to want to die.  also, after riding for a bit the bike idles up around 2000 rpm and i have to back the screw out to get the rpms down.  any ideas?  throttle play never seems to change and i believe it's within spec. 

waiting on stock air box from ebay.  currently crappy pods. 

[Stev-o]

How old are your rubber carb insulators? Check for air leaks with the motor running by spraying carb cleaner around them.

[evinrude7]

calj the stock airbox should be here end of week.  stev-o the carb insulators?  do you mean the boots/large black tubes that run from carb to head?  i imagine they are original.  they are hard as hell but not cracking they have some flex.  when i put the carbs back on the bike it's a bear.  i get 1 and almost 2 on then i have to line up 3 and 4 and whack the set of carbs on the back of #4 with a piece of wood against it and a hammer.  then it goes on.  is that a sign i need to replace them?   

also i noticed today when taking the carbs completely apart and putting back together, i had the carb upside down.  only #3 float seemed to have any spring when touching the float valve. 

[evinrude7]

no calj, i had the carbs turned upside down when cleaning them.  notice that 3 was only one that the needle valve felt springy on.

btw: if i spray carb cleaner what's the expected result if i have a vacuum leak?

[Stev-o]

Another thing to check on, there are rubber O-rings between the intake manifold and the head.

He's got a 750, Cal.

[evinrude7]

regardless of the needle valves feeling springy or not the carbs fill and stop filling with the floats, so they work.  the floats and float valves are functioning.  was curious as to why 3 out of 4 felt different. 

[evanphi]

COuld have been an aftermarket float valve.

[evinrude7]

word evan.