Topic: cb550f watts/amps/lights

[MD]

Did the SOHC4 google search about LED lights on a CB550F I did not find a clear discussion of power output of the 550F alternator vs stock lighting.  This is what I came up with from researching the issue.

@4k+ rpms Alternator puts out 12-13 amps @ 14.5v = 174-189 watts.

Head high           50w
Head low           50w
tail                   8w
tail stop           27w
rear directional   23w
front directional   23w
front run           8w
Speedometer   3.4w
Tachometer   3.4w
Neutral          3.4w
Turn signal          3.4w
High Beam          3.4w

Not every light would be used at once so I came up with about 80watts being used by lighting during normal street driving leaving 90-100 watts for charging the battery.

The motivation for doing this is that I want to add driving/fog lights to the crash bar.  By switching the 1157 & 1156 bulbs to LED I can save 18watts.  (I know I will also have to switch the flasher relay)

Switching the panel BA9S-W lights to led will save 9.5 watts

If I switch the headlight to a 35/60watt halogen.  I could gain another 15 watts for the drive/fog lights when not running high beams.    High beams are usually on when running highway speeds so at higher rpms.  I would still be below max output of the alternator.

35 Watts for driving/fog lights is that feasible?

Thanks for your input.

-MD

[Deltarider]

Head high           50w
Head low           50w
tail                   8w
tail stop           27w
rear directional   23w
front directional   23w
front run           8w
Speedometer   3.4w
Tachometer   3.4w
Neutral          3.4w
Turn signal          3.4w
high beam           3.4w

Just for a comparison, this is what we usually have standard in Europe:
Head                55/60watts halogen
pilot light                5w
tailstop/tail       21/5w
rear directional   21 w (18 w is fine too)
front directional   21w (18 w is fine too)
front run           none
Speedometer   3.4w (X 2 on later models)
Tachometer   3.4w (X 2 on later models)
Neutral          3.4w
Turn signal          3.4w
high beam           3.4w
Don't expect too much of 'fog' lights. I had them on the crashbars of my Goldwing 1100D Interstate but they didn't ad anything (not much anyway) to the H4 halogen headlamp, so but for a few times out of curiosity, I never switched them on no more. Do you really intend to ride in the fog? You're braver than me.
What I would do, is skip the front running lights. That's 16 watts saved and as a bonus you'll have better noticable indicators. And have a good 55/60 Watts halogen headlamp like the Philips X-treme Vision Moto.

[MD]

I forgot to factor in how many amps/watts are consumed by the ignition system.  I am running 5 ohm coils dyna coils and ignition.  What would their draw be on the system?

Do I have the power of the alternator correct?

Thanks,

-MD

Calj737,

The 1156 & 1157 led bulbs I mentioned were to replace front and rear directional, running and stop. I probably should have made that clearer.

Delltarider,

The driving lights are to widen the light converge in the first 50' of the bike.  One headlight doesn't spread like a car does.  As for fog,  I live by Lake Superior so fog can roll in off the lake.  I have seen the highway as the dividing line between sunny skies and fog as the sun and lake do battle.

[Dunk]

What headlight reflector are you using? I am very pleased with the width of the pattern using a Cibie reflector.

[MD]

What headlight reflector are you using? I am very pleased with the width of the pattern using a Cibie reflector.

I am leaning towards a sealed beam option. 

-MD

[Bodi]

You're better off with either an H4 reflector that you can put various wattage bulbs in, or an LED headlight assembly. Sealed beam isn't evil or anything, but you're stuck with the wattage - most LED units are be low enough load to not be a problem and an H4 allows you to use 35/35W "scooter" H4 bulbs which are still WAY brighter/better than the 70's era Stanley sealed beams.

[MD]

4into1 has a Wagner 7" Halogen Motorcycle Headlight - Sealed Beam H6024  35/60.  Anyone use one?

-MD

[Dunk]

If you are concerns about night visibility to the point of adding extra lights and introducing issues of an inadequate charging system, you really need to get a proper headlight. Even the newer halogen sealed beams are junk compared to a proper reflector. Cibie is hands down the best, Hella and Bosch are also good but not quite as good from what I've heard. As Bodi mentioned, with a quality reflector you can run a lower wattage bulb and still put more light on the road and in a better pattern than a sealed beam. The reflectors in sealed beams are cheap to manufacture as they are disposable, they're not made to maximize light output where you need it as it would be cost prohibitive for a throwaway item.

There's no reason not to put a proper headlight on your bike if you find the factory lighting inadequate. $44 for a Cibie reflector (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DQV88Q), $10-$20 for a pair of good bulbs and $10-$30 for relays and wiring depending how fancy you want to go. Under $100 for something that can save your life. I put one on my bike and immediately got another for my other bike and got a pair of Cibie rectangular units for my truck along with a RTRM panel to wire it in real nice with relays. No idea how I've managed to drive vehicles with sealed beams my whole life when better options are available. Seriously, give a good H4 reflector a try before adding more lights. Throwing more cheap lights with a poor pattern at the problem will not significantly improve visibility and will likely just throw more light at the trees and in the eyes of oncoming drivers, which can be dangerous.

[Deltarider]

Dunk gave good advice. To us here it is unbelievable that your market has had these sealed beam units for such an incredible long time. Did this have to do with legislation? They were bad, very bad and they knew they were bad and so for cars they came with a typical American solution: offer two. As if quantity can replace quality. But... they were still bad. Legislation even forced foreign carmakers like Mercedes and Peugeot that had their associates like Cibié, Hella or Bosch develop excellent headlamps to replace these by the sealed beam junk in order to become type approved for the American market. Crazy. If you want good light on the road at night, you need nothing more than a good projector like Cibié, Hella, Bosch or Maréchal combined with a 55/60 Watts halogen and then choose a good one like the Philips X-treme Vision Moto (first choice) or the Osram Nightbreaker and you'll have nothing left to desire. If you're worried about the charging capacity* you could also choose the Philips Ecovision halogen that offers better light than a conventional 55/60 Watts halogen with 20% less draw. If you ad extra lamps of an unknown (Chinese?) brand you don't know what you get. Those extra lights I had on the crashbars of my Goldwing had even a negative effect: they seemed to lighten the air just in front of me causing my eye pupils to narrow so that I had in fact less vision.
* You shouldn't. It seems to be a problem only in the US. For instance models like the CB550K3 in Europe came standard with a 55/60 Watts halogen, be it without those silly running lights in the front indicators. You could start by disconnecting them. They bring nothing, consume 16 Watts and make your front turn signals less noticeable.
 

[Dunk]

To us here it is unbelievable that your market has had these sealed beam units for such an incredible long time. Did this have to do with legislation? They were bad, very bad and they knew they were bad and so for cars they came with a typical American solution: offer two. As if quantity can replace quality. But... they were still bad. Legislation even forced foreign carmakers like Mercedes and Peugeot that had developped excellent headlamps to change these for the sealed beam junk in order to be approved for the American market. Crazy.

Yes, it is the US government at work. They mandate particular DOT lighting requirements for headlight (as opposed to ECE that just about everyone else has standardized on). The biggest offending part of their DOT requirement is that about 20% of the light be shining up into the trees and oncoming drivers eyes. They mandate a very sloppy reflector, so even H4 reflectors that are DOT compliant and legal here suck compared to even cheap lower quality ECE reflectors. Fortunately motorcycles can legally use ECE headlights, and if you properly aim them on a car it is not enforced by law enforcement, so if you live in a state with no vehicle inspections (fortunately I do) you can run good lighting on your four wheeled vehicles too.

[MD]

I forgot to factor in how many amps/watts are consumed by the ignition system.  I am running 5 ohm coils dyna coils and ignition.  What would their draw be on the system?

Thanks,

-MD

Before I run down the reflector trail,  I would like to know the answer to amperage draw of the ignition system.

-MD

[b52bombardier1]

The answer to your ignition system power consumption question will likely depend on engine RPM. 

Rick

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk

[MD]

The answer to your ignition system power consumption question will likely depend on engine RPM. 

Rick

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk

I'll agree.  Let's rephrase the question.  How much amperage/wattage does the ignition system draw per 1000 rpm?

1000 = x
2000 = x
3000 = x
4000 = x
5000 = x
6000 = x
7000 = x
8000 = x
9000 = x

-MD

[Deltarider]

Why not test it yourself? Connect an ammeter (in case of a DMM: select the 10A scale) between the black/white twin connector (somewhere under the tank) and one of the black/white wires of one of the coils. Start the engine and multiply the reading by two or - for an optimal reading - connect between that same twin connector and both black/white coil wires. Don't worry, reading will certainly not exceed 10A. I've planned such a test myself with even more variables knowing: 1. running with my transistorized ignition and 2. old style Kettering. But that may take a while. Due to low temperatures, most likely I will not start riding before April. It could well be that Hondaman has had the same curiosity and has performed this test before already.
Are you familiar with Ohm's law? It's dead easy. An example: if you have a 60Watts headlamp in a 12V vehicle, it will draw 60:12 = 5 A (and in a 6V system 60:6 = 10 A). If a fuse says it's 7 A, in theory the maximum Watts you can use in that circuit is 7 x 12 = 84 Watts. (In practice you need a margin however.) Now back to your question. Using Ohm's law you can calculate and make a pretty close estimate. Think of your coils as lamps. If you have standard coils that are rated around 4,8Ω such a coil will draw around 2,7 A each. But depending on your breakerpoints gap that coil is 'on' only for say around 53% of the time. There are two coils however so total draw will be 2 x 53/100 of that 2,7A which will result in 2,9 A. In Watts that's about 38 Watts. It's an estimate because voltage in a running motor ofcourse varies somewhat. Now you should be able to calculate what every item you've listed draws and we are eager to hear from you what the total will be. You could also connect your ammeter as I described and see if your bike has understood my calculation