Topic: A few questions/problems CB500

[hudstr]

I am going to keep using this thread for my problems unless you guys think it would be better to use another thread for different topics, ex this thread for running problems, another thread for questions about rims/tires ect.

So I've got de7a's now and replaced all the spark plug boots. I am still having a problem with cylinder 2 and I have no clue what it is. For cylinder 2, I can either have it synced with the other 3 during idle, but not synced when throttle is applied. OR I can have 2 not synced at idle, but synced when throttle is applied. These 2 videos show that.

Here are what the spark plugs look like. IIRC, the bike was only idling for a few minutes before I called it quits, so I'm not sure If i should have let it idle longer. All pictures are 1 to 4 going from left to right.

http://imgur.com/a/XPNuA

When I took out the slides to change the needle, all of the slides had some sort of gunk on them and on the inside of the carb body which made the slides stick a bit and slow to return to idle. I cleaned the slides and the inside of the carb body with the beryman carb cleaner i have and when I put them back in, it slid much better. However, now I think the gunk has returned since the slides stick a bit and are slow to return. Anyone seen this before? Is this a result of bad gas or something? I have the brass screen in the petcock as well a paper inline filter.

I plan on replacing the wheel bearings and so far I have the rear wheel off and apart. I think I made the right choice because one of the bearings says NTN on it. I was looking at getting SKF bearings and so far I've found this place.   http://www.locateballbearings.com/Search    On the honda manual, it lists the rear wheel bearings as 6304U and 6305U. I can't find any bearings other than a honda parts site that has bearings ending in "U". On another thread on here, I saw someone mention 6304 2RS and 6305 2RS. Are these the bearings I need?

[Deltarider]

SKF is first choice (Swedish quality). It doesn't matter much if they're sealed one side or both sides (because of the location where they're mounted), but why not have them sealed both sides?

[Scott S]

 You're still out of sync in the first video. I can get the needles much closer than that. Did you install the dampener valves inline on your gauges?

[b52bombardier1]

Back on your post #11 earlier this month, you mentioned that you reinstalled the tank. What does the inside of your tank look like?  Rusty? Old varnished fuel?

If yes, new fuel in your tank has acted as a solvent and that "gunk " you mention above is now what you are seeing in your carburetors.

You might need to clean the tank and install fresh fuel lines.

Rick

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk

[hudstr]

I had the dampers installed. I'll try again today I guess. The tank was fairly clean. I didn't clean it, but there was only a little bit of rust at the bottom. I wasn't planning on cleaning and resealing but I think I might anyway now.

[Deltarider]

Oh, I forgot... did you check for airleaks between the carbs and the enginehead? If there's a leak big enough in one of the four, there won't be much vacuum in that one. It's easily checked by spraying some carb- or brakecleaner where the rubber boots are and between the inlet manifolds and the head. There are O-rings between the manifolds and the head that harden over the years, become brittle and so result in leaks. As a matter of fact I cannot imagine any CB500/550 escape this happening.

[hudstr]

The bike didn't have any rubber intake boots when I bought it and I bought new airbox boots as well, so it has new airbox and intake rubber boots. I tried the starter fluid trick on the intake boots really quick to see if the rpms would increase which would show a leak, but nothing happened. Would carb cleaner or brakecleaner bubble or something if there is a leak?

I just don't understand the syncing. I am supposed to sync it at idle and then applying throttle should mean the cylinders should draw more vacuum. When I apply throttle however, the needles are all over the place. Is there a place to start from, like should I start at a specific amount of turns out or a specific procedure I should follow?

[Scott S]

 Set the sync at idle. In that latest video, you're still way out, even at idle. Well, off on #1 by a decent amount and a little off on #3.

 Where are you located?

[hudstr]

Ok, I'll get it lined up at idle, but it still feels like something is wrong with it going every other direction when throttle is applied. I'm in buffalo ny.

[Deltarider]

The bike didn't have any rubber intake boots when I bought it and I bought new airbox boots as well, so it has new airbox and intake rubber boots. I tried the starter fluid trick on the intake boots really quick to see if the rpms would increase which would show a leak, but nothing happened. Would carb cleaner or brakecleaner bubble or something if there is a leak?

Just to be sure, I was referring to the rubber boots between carbs and head and the O-rings between manifolds and head. If there's a leak and you spray brake- or carbcleaner there, rpm will change noticeably.
When you restrict the vacuum lines to the vac gauges, make sure all meterneedles are free enough to 'vibrate' the same. Avoid that they hang on.
Also it's crucial slow jets are clean and the idle circuit as a whole.

[hudstr]

Ok so I need to get new tires now. The rims say DID on them so I'm assuming they aren't stock rims. What are on them now are 3.25 19 on the front and 4.00 18 on the rear. I plan on going with avon roadriders but unsure what size for the rear. My choices are 4.00, 100/90 and 110/90, right? The closest to factory 3.500 tire would be 100/90 right? Because 90% of 100mm is 90mm and 90mm=3.54 in.

As for tubes, I think I saw somewhere kenda was a good brand. Should i choose this or is there a better brand? Also, I just need to make sure the diameter is right, 19 and 18, and then make sure it is in the size range for the tube.

Front Tube: https://www.amazon.com/Kenda-Power-Heavy-Duty-Inner-Tubes/dp/B000WJFNSI/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1493076084&sr=8-12&keywords=motorcycle+tube+19+3.25
Rear tube:  https://www.amazon.com/Kenda-05185720-510-18-100-18-Motorcycle/dp/B000WJJ7Y4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493075735&sr=8-3&keywords=motorcycle+tube+18
I think these would work, I just want to order the right parts the first time.

I have a valve core remover in the mail so as soon as it comes in I am going to take off the rear tire to check the rim tape. Should I replace the tape anyway or is it something I can get away with?

[Stev-o]

I put 4.00-18 on the back of my 550 [same rim as 500]. Kendra tube is fine, I usually buy a new rim strip too but your old one is prolly fine.

[hudstr]

SO I've hit another roadblock. I can't get the rear bearing retainer off. I've looked at the shop manual and these websites but I still can't figure it out.
http://blacksquaremotorcycle.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/BEARINGS-REMOVAL-REAR-WHEEL-CB550F.pdf
http://blacksquaremotorcycle.com/how-to-drill-out-stakes/

From what I remember, my wheel didn't look like this image


It almost looked like it had already been drilled out or maybe the punch was on the seam in between the two. This is what it looks like now after I drilled down a few millimeters with a small bit. Everywhere I've read says that is it left hand threaded which means I need to turn clockwise to loosen. However, there is an arrow on the retainer that points counter-clockwise. Is this just telling you which way to install it? The bearings appear to be OEM style but I don't know if they are original or not. Could someone have replaced with oem bearings and put locktite on the retainer, which is why I can't get it off. This the the makeshift tool I am using.



Side note: I've been soaking the rim vertically in a tub of The Works to try to clean the rust without damaging the chrome and it seems to have removed some kind of coating off the spokes. Was this some sort of coating put on or is it just dirt from presumably many years? The yellow is just a tinge from the cleaner, it will go away after washing so it is bare metal underneath.

[Scott S]

 Sometimes, you have to take a punch and hit the holes to get it started. It can take a little bit of force. I've seen quite a few that have oval holes. It is definitely reverse thread. And fine thread at that.

[Bodi]

I use double sealed (not shielded) bearings for wheels. There is a tiny bit of extra drag but nothing to be an issue, and it will be a few decades before they dry out (if ever).
I get "name brand" as a rule but NTN is one of them. NSK, FAG or SKF are also excellent.
The standard electric motor clearance ones (what bearing shops will have in stock) are good for wheel use. Ordering a high ABEC rated set will make no difference except in your wallet.
There are arguments about Chinese bearings both for and against... ones that a reputable bearing shop sells should be fine, but what you find on Aliexpress or ebay... buyer beware.

[hudstr]

Yep, I already have SKF replacement bearings and oem seals.

What type of brake cleaner should I be using, chlorinated or non-chlorinated? The cam (i think that is the right term) that the rear drum uses to expand is stuck and I also want to clean out the hub itself. Is one type of brake cleaner bad/worse than the other type?

[hudstr]

Well everything is not coming up millhouse. I couldn't get the bearing retainer out myself so we brought it to a guy and he was able to get it out. Pretty sure the hub is garbage now unless you guys know of some magic which could fix these threads for less than the cost of a new hub. I don't blame the guy though, that retainer was all sorts of messed up, I don't think anyone could have gotten it out without breaking something. Its almost like honda designed it so you need to get a new hub after two sets of bearings. I would have preferred the retainer getting destroyed instead of the hub, but with my luck the retainer threads were fine for the most part, I'm going to buy a new one anyway though. I am going to post a thread in the wanted sections for a 500 hub but if nothing happens in a week or two I guess I'll go to ebay.

[hudstr]

From a bit of quick research, it seems cb500's and early cb550's (up to 1975 I believe, please correct me if I am wrong) used the same rear hub, and after 1975 they used a slightly different hub that won't fit my needs.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1972-HONDA-CB500-CB-500-FOUR-REAR-WHEEL-HUB-SPROCKET-SET-/381888562112?fits=Model%3ACB500&hash=item58ea5503c0:g:Xp8AAOSw5cNYVYhG&vxp=mtr
This one came off of the same year and model as my bike but the brake surface doesn't look the best.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1975-Honda-CB550k-REAR-Wheel-Rim-HUB-w-BRAKE-cb-550-72-73-74-76-cb-550k-cb500-/162529319279?hash=item25d780996f:g:mroAAOSwcgNZJ5TM&vxp=mtr
This one came off of a 75 550 so in theory it should work, looks a bit better and is cheaper. I just want to run this by others to make sure I am not buying something I can't use.

As for lacing a new to me hub to my wheel, should I use the spokes I have, or buy new ones. My spokes seem alright but the nipples are a bit rusted as was the inside of the rim. The only new spokes+nipples I've found are $70 which is the same price as the hub, and I haven't found anywhere to buy new nipples alone.

[hudstr]

The petcock is always leaking so I need some advice or ideas. When I first opened it up to clean it the broken bit came out with the seal so there was nothing I could do. I thoroughly cleaned it and got a genuine honda seal. Problem is there is always a slow drip from the brass fittings which you attach the fuel lines. It drips with the fuel lines off, and when they are on, I think it squeezes out between the lines and the brass, or between the brass and the housing. The brass sometimes pops out so I guess I am not hitting it hard enough to get it to stay in.

Is a slow drip normal and I just need to put clamps on the lines ( haven't yet because I take the tank off a lot), or is it leaking because of the broken reserve channel thingy? If I need a new petcock, will a $30 chinese reproduction be fine or is it $50 genuine or bust?

[Scott S]

 It shouldn't leak at all. I think the reproduction petcocks are OK, but for another $20 I'd go for the genuine Honda.

[Stev-o]

It shouldn't leak at all. I think the reproduction petcocks are OK, but for another $20 I'd go for the genuine Honda.

I've had bad luck with re-pops, go with genuine and be done with it.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

It shouldn't leak at all. I think the reproduction petcocks are OK, but for another $20 I'd go for the genuine Honda.

I've had bad luck with re-pops, go with genuine and be done with it.

I've heard all kinds of stories about repops leaking.  Spend the extra for a genuine Honda petcock and have some peace of mind.

[hudstr]

I just can't catch a break. Removing the old bearings destroyed the spacer thingy so my dad's friend made up a new one. Problem is something isn't quite sitting right because the bearing I put in last, the brake side, is protruding. This is causing the brake assembly to not sit like it should, which ultimately means I can't put the castle nut on the axle far enough to fit a cotter pin in. I'm not sure if the spacer thingy is too long, or if it isn't round enough. We are going to go see if he still has the old one in a few days and try to evaluate options.



I'm also being kicked while I'm down. The old retainer is mangled (starting to see a patter? things break when I touch them) and the new one is too big. It is bigger in both diameter (threads to threads) and bigger from the threads to inner wall. I can't turn the new one more than 1 turn without feeling like I would destroy the hub threads. The old retainer goes in just fine until the messed up threads at the top. This is a replacement hub as well, so the old retainer wasn't originally with this hub. Anyone got any ideas for the retainer problem?

[hudstr]

I need some opinions. I've got the clutch adjuster out and I noticed a small crack that is about 3/8 long. Is this going to break eventually or can I get away with it. Cmsnl has new ones but with shipping it would be $40.