Topic: Getting ready to break-in new pistons/rings,CB550: tips ?

[grcamna2]

I had this engine bored-out by a powersports machinist and it's got a nice looking cross-hatch on the cyl. walls about 220 grit,I'm using oem Honda piston and rings and getting ready to do some 'break-in runs'.
I heard lot's of different ways of doing it.. I was always into going real slow and easy on break-in until 600 miles and then jumping on it. The last time I did that I had honed the cylinders w/ fine(400) grit stones and got 'blow by' and the rings didn't seat. I am considering this way now: Oil-up the cylinders and then wipe-off all the oil w/ shop towels and install the piston/rings w/ a little oil on each skirt and the rings dry.I was told this will still leave an oil film on the cylinder walls but not so much to keep the rings from breaking-in within the first few miles while the cylinders are still rough enough to scuff those hard oem rings in well initially.I'll be using light 5/30wt. oil just for the break-in.
I was planning on getting the bike over to this road(first start-up w/ 0 miles on the fresh top-end bore job) just down the street from me which has a decent 10-15% rise to it for about a 1/4 mile and then it goes downhill to a stop sign and a 'T'.I plan on starting the bike up and letting it idle between 15-2500rpm's and after just a minute or so start up that road w/ about 1/3 throttle and no more than 5-6K rpm and shift up to 3rd by the time I crest the hill and then back-off as i descend and let it decellerate slowly.I then ride back up that part of the road and return/descend down that long hill and do this roughly about 6 times while giving it about half throttle max while letting my rpm's increase slightly/progressivlely.The road is almost a mile long and basically is a steep hill which crests in the middle w/ descents on both ends.I would be climbing the longest part of it at first and returning down that to turn-around and do it again. I'd like to hear how you would do top-end/bore job break-in runs and what has worked for you.There are so many different folks that give advice on this, it's interesting to hear what works for them.I just want to be sure the rings completely seat-in this time around and want to be careful to not over-stress the piston skirts on decelleration.

This is all going to be done After the snow passes out of here  and the roads are nice. 

I have done plenty of engine break-ins before but this thread is just to give me more ideas on how I might improve on my 'technique'. I think 'an old dog can learn new tricks'  in a manner of speaking..

[innovativems]

In the past I've been told don't let them idle at all and to constantly vary the rpms.  I typically keep to flat ground and do pulls in various gears of half to 3/4 throttle and keeps the rpms to a max of 6k.  With Accel and decel.  Probably better methods though


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[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Engine run-in or break-in is as debated as oil, fork braces, etc. 

[FunJimmy]

Cylinder pressure ensures the compression rings are forced firmly against the cylinders providing a good seal. My Kawasaki mechanic and ex-racer told my to accelerate hard up to approx 75% of redline then back off and repeat. He said it's either accelerate or brake. No cruising. That's a perfect recommendation for your favourite canyon road. I did it this way and would do it again.

[BLAC]

Im interested in this as well, but am unsure what to do since I will have to switch up my carb jetting in a big way... I guess I should just make a best guess and go for it? Im planning on Dyno tuning but want to get the motor running and a little broken in before I take it to a Dyno.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Everyone has their own opinions. 

Factory manuals for most modern bikes are very gingerly as to their run in procedures (no revs higher than XXX rpm for the first 400 miles, etc.).

Many qualified technicians say to run the bike like you will ride it BUT not to keep it at constant speed or sustained load for a long time, but to also run it through the gears at a load (not redlining but not being too timid either).  Make sure to run it through several heating and cooling cycles.

Most advise changing the oil and filter after approximately 500-600 miles.

[grcamna2]

Cylinder pressure ensures the compression rings are forced firmly against the cylinders providing a good seal. My Kawasaki mechanic and ex-racer told my to accelerate hard up to approx 75% of redline then back off and repeat. He said it's either accelerate or brake. No cruising. That's a perfect recommendation for your favourite canyon road. I did it this way and would do it again.

I like it. 

[BLAC]

Factory manuals for most modern bikes are very gingerly as to their run in procedures (no revs higher than XXX rpm for the first 400 miles, etc.).

What I have never understood about this is, don't manufacturers of performance cars and motorcycles test most (if not all) engines coming off the assembly line as a part of QC?

Anecdotally, I was at Pista di Fiorano in Maranello and watched the test drivers take each and every Ferrari off the assembly line and drive the piss out of them on the track (followed by a road test), including a rev-limiter launch and burn out after I waved to a test driver in a 599 GTB.

[Camrector]

Factory manuals for most modern bikes are very gingerly as to their run in procedures (no revs higher than XXX rpm for the first 400 miles, etc.).

What I have never understood about this is, don't manufacturers of performance cars and motorcycles test most (if not all) engines coming off the assembly line as a part of QC?

Anecdotally, I was at Pista di Fiorano in Maranello and watched the test drivers take each and every Ferrari off the assembly line and drive the piss out of them on the track (followed by a road test), including a rev-limiter launch and burn out after I waved to a test driver in a 599 GTB.

Yeah those drivers don't own them! 

[calj737]

Factory manuals for most modern bikes are very gingerly as to their run in procedures (no revs higher than XXX rpm for the first 400 miles, etc.).

What I have never understood about this is, don't manufacturers of performance cars and motorcycles test most (if not all) engines coming off the assembly line as a part of QC?

Anecdotally, I was at Pista di Fiorano in Maranello and watched the test drivers take each and every Ferrari off the assembly line and drive the piss out of them on the track (followed by a road test), including a rev-limiter launch and burn out after I waved to a test driver in a 599 GTB.

Yeah those drivers don't own them! 

Yeah, but their employers surely are on the hook for them if they beat them up and cause warranty or maintenance issues. The Italian method is mine.

[Camrector]

Factory manuals for most modern bikes are very gingerly as to their run in procedures (no revs higher than XXX rpm for the first 400 miles, etc.).

What I have never understood about this is, don't manufacturers of performance cars and motorcycles test most (if not all) engines coming off the assembly line as a part of QC?

Anecdotally, I was at Pista di Fiorano in Maranello and watched the test drivers take each and every Ferrari off the assembly line and drive the piss out of them on the track (followed by a road test), including a rev-limiter launch and burn out after I waved to a test driver in a 599 GTB.

Yeah those drivers don't own them! 

Yeah, but their employers surely are on the hook for them if they beat them up and cause warranty or maintenance issues. The Italian method is mine.

Naw those just go to Dubai! 

[BLAC]

Factory manuals for most modern bikes are very gingerly as to their run in procedures (no revs higher than XXX rpm for the first 400 miles, etc.).

What I have never understood about this is, don't manufacturers of performance cars and motorcycles test most (if not all) engines coming off the assembly line as a part of QC?

Anecdotally, I was at Pista di Fiorano in Maranello and watched the test drivers take each and every Ferrari off the assembly line and drive the piss out of them on the track (followed by a road test), including a rev-limiter launch and burn out after I waved to a test driver in a 599 GTB.

Yeah those drivers don't own them! 

Yeah, but their employers surely are on the hook for them if they beat them up and cause warranty or maintenance issues. The Italian method is mine.

Naw those just go to Dubai! 

or straight to Mansory... then to Dubai 

[FunJimmy]

Everyone has their own opinions. 

Factory manuals for most modern bikes are very gingerly as to their run in procedures (no revs higher than XXX rpm for the first 400 miles, etc.).

Many qualified technicians say to run the bike like you will ride it BUT not to keep it at constant speed or sustained load for a long time, but to also run it through the gears at a load (not redlining but not being too timid either).  Make sure to run it through several heating and cooling cycles.

Most advise changing the oil and filter after approximately 500-600 miles.

Heat cycling is especially important with new pistons. Not so much if just seating new rings.

[grcamna2]

Heat Cycling as in allowing the engine to fully cool-off before I go for it again ?
 it has new pistons and rings w/ around .0012in. piston-cyl. side clearances and a nice cross-hatch pattern.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

IMO.......

Easy at the very first, say 50 miles or so, to insure the rings seat 'mechanically' then run them up there but kinda easily and back down say another 100 miles or so. Don't necessarily hard redline it WFO but don't baby it either. Redline is fine. Then when you are confident it is mechanically sound - flog the #$%* out of it. 'The old guys' (when I was young and not one back then) told us you break em in like you're gonna run em.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Heat Cycling as in allowing the engine to fully cool-off before I go for it again?

Yes.

[disco]

All good advice so far. The only thing I would add is don't 'lug' the engine ie not enough rpm's & too much load. Worst thing you can do.