Topic: 1978 CB750 Cafe conversion Front end [re-assembly]

[Rnobx67]

Hi guys I'm going forward with my bike. I strip down everything i could till now, figuring how to remove motor from frame... My lift let me down...

How can I put photos now ? till can't with photobucket !

Also I'm drawing my own triple tree and I will be able do make milling it by a guy nearby, maybe a little overpriced but...

I've some question about the bottom triple till I didn't remove it from bike till now. What's the diameter of the stem, and there is a ball bearing, so before removing these if I can have some advice or information.

I am not sure what your machinist wants to charge you, but you will want to increase the offset between the steering stem and the forks closer to the stock offset.  If the combined cost of replacing the stem and triples approaches the range of $500, you should simply have Devin at Cognitomoto make them for you.

Yeah I want to increase the offset, it's really pain in the ass at low speed/foot to handle the bike.
It would be simple as this, but I have a ZX6R fork now, and Devin charge same price as the machinist, so I want to do mine
I already done some drawings so it's my job too and I will be very proud to do have my own pieces

CAD_top_tree by RnOw, sur Flickr

CAD_down_tree by RnOw, sur Flickr

CAD_drawing by RnOw, sur Flickr


But for now I'm just there :
demontage001 by RnOw, sur Flickr

need to pull off the motor and it will be better to remove front end

[Rnobx67]

You remove the stock CB ball bearings by simply pulling the the stem out of the neck, and they will fall all over the workshop floor.

If you are referring to the GSXR bearings installed on the stem, the easy way is to toss the lower triple into the freezer overnight. Then tomorrow after work, pop out to the shop, a quick but careful tap with a cold chisel between the bearing race and lower tree, and it will come sliding off.

like on old bicyles headset and bottom brackets... Dont, know what my mech have put on the last conversion, so it's a BB from CB or ZX6R, I will see...

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

If you are going to pull the motor, and it is clear you are not doing a concourse restoration, I'd recommend that you install a frame kit (see member 754 aka Frank who has a weldless kit).  This will allow you (after installation) to service the entire top end of the motor in the frame.  So if you have any latent oil leak in the top end, you can easily work on it and not have to pull the entire motor. 

I always thought it would not be necessary, because I never thought I'd pull the motor more than once.  3 times later, I installed the frame kit.

[SKTP]

Don, did you notice any difference in frame flex after you put in the Frame kit?

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Don, did you notice any difference in frame flex after you put in the Frame kit?

No.  Some people believe that it actually makes the frame more rigid.

[calj737]

Don, did you notice any difference in frame flex after you put in the Frame kit?

Welded, or weld-less, I personally don't believe you could ride the difference with a hot rod 750 motor in it. There's just not enough ponies to push that frame's limits on the street.

[754]

Nice looking trees, how thick is the bottom.
 Re the frame kits  I have a guy working on them as we speak.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Nice looking trees, how thick is the bottom.
 Re the frame kits  I have a guy working on them as we speak.

There you go. Straight from the source!

[Rnobx67]

Nice looking trees, how thick is the bottom.
 Re the frame kits  I have a guy working on them as we speak.

You redo some, great   The Low triple is 45mm thik, but there is a recess to 35in middle section and stem.

For the Gordon Kit I'm in !

also design my own on spare time... (to weld)


But I prefer the clamping type til I'm not a welder so GordonKit will be I think, or I will do mine...

[Rnobx67]

Don, did you notice any difference in frame flex after you put in the Frame kit?

Welded, or weld-less, I personally don't believe you could ride the difference with a hot rod 750 motor in it. There's just not enough ponies to push that frame's limits on the street.

calj737, I see on your avatar, You use motogadget did you have all the harness drawing with that ? what did you keep from original harness ?

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Don, did you notice any difference in frame flex after you put in the Frame kit?

Welded, or weld-less, I personally don't believe you could ride the difference with a hot rod 750 motor in it. There's just not enough ponies to push that frame's limits on the street.

calj737, I see on your avatar, You use motogadget did you have all the harness drawing with that ? what did you keep from original harness ?

FYI - Cal has a deserved reputation on the forum as being somewhat of a wiring and Motogadget guru. 

[calj737]

calj737, I see on your avatar, You use motogadget did you have all the harness drawing with that ? what did you keep from original harness ?

I do use MotoG stuff on my bikes, plus many others I help with. And I have helped more than 100 folks remotely or in-person install these systems. I don't think that makes me a Guru, but it does mean I've done it quite a few times. 

I used the stock harness only as a reference. My re-wires are completely from scratch since an M-Unit functions in reverse to the stock electrical system. I do adhere as closely as possible to the stock colors though for consistency, troubleshooting, and future ownership (so those who inherit these bikes can make some heads/tails from a custom harness).

If you plan to use an M-Unit and use the stock controls, there's a number of wires that have to be altered. Easiest for you to compile a detailed list of your controls, components, and brands so that I can help direct you accurately. If that's what you need?

[Rnobx67]

I do use MotoG stuff on my bikes, plus many others I help with. And I have helped more than 100 folks remotely or in-person install these systems. I don't think that makes me a Guru, but it does mean I've done it quite a few times. 

I used the stock harness only as a reference. My re-wires are completely from scratch since an M-Unit functions in reverse to the stock electrical system. I do adhere as closely as possible to the stock colors though for consistency, troubleshooting, and future ownership (so those who inherit these bikes can make some heads/tails from a custom harness).

If you plan to use an M-Unit and use the stock controls, there's a number of wires that have to be altered. Easiest for you to compile a detailed list of your controls, components, and brands so that I can help direct you accurately. If that's what you need?

What I plan is like you said start from scratch with entire new harness, think I will change the controls by new one or other bike, newer or juste one from the ZX6R. I will keep whatever works, like coils, acid battery, already bought new regulator cause old one grilled all my lights. If I can I would like to put everything new but sometimes $ could talk.

SO I will be very flatered to be helped with that. I could make my list and send it to your private message

[calj737]

GSXR controls are tricky to wire to. Just so you know. I'm a huge fan of momentary push buttons for handlebars. There's plenty of inexpensive versions of those out there. You send me anything you want, or continue to post here. Matters not to me. 

[Rnobx67]

It was too cold outside for going to the garage so I was trying some stuff to do in the appartment. What do you think ? I removed black background on side sigle tank and replace the chinese copy which wasn't fitted properly on the tank.
Also trying some pinstriping lines, my first ones.

[calj737]

Removing the black background looks fine, but re-paint the letters in White. The contrast will make your stripes and letters standout better.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I would keep the background black.  Cal is right. There needs to be some contrast between the letter and the surround or the letters look messy and undefined.

[Rnobx67]

Removing the black background looks fine, but re-paint the letters in White. The contrast will make your stripes and letters standout better.

I would keep the background black.  Cal is right. There needs to be some contrast between the letter and the surround or the letters look messy and undefined.

But the letters are not like 69-76 tank. They are plan and "silver" plated, difficult to paint without wall to maintain paint inside the letter...
My goal was to add gold touch for matching with the front legs. chinese logos were good in term of coloring, I have an other idea, but plan it for later

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Removing the black background looks fine, but re-paint the letters in White. The contrast will make your stripes and letters standout better.

I would keep the background black.  Cal is right. There needs to be some contrast between the letter and the surround or the letters look messy and undefined.

But the letters are not like 69-76 tank. They are plan and "silver" plated, difficult to paint without wall to maintain paint inside the letter...
My goal was to add gold touch for matching with the front legs. chinese logos were good in term of coloring, I have an other idea, but plan it for later

You can mask the individual letters OR use a Dupicolor paint pen Or (ghetto-style that won't last) use a Sharpie.

[Bankerdanny]

Nice looking trees, how thick is the bottom.
 Re the frame kits  I have a guy working on them as we speak.

Good to hear. I am going to need one for my 750F. It's still sitting in my sister's garage, but I plan to move my 550 from the shop where it is stored now to a storage unit I rented recently and finally get the 750 up the shop so I can get it running and have it ready for Spring.

[nvr2old]

Looking at your tank emblems, to me they look so much better with the black background, if for no other reason then the screws in the O and the D..they stand out like a sore thumb, but with the background black, they disappear.  No need to mask the letters to paint.  Just spray the whole thing black, let it tack up a bit, then dip your rag tipped finger into a bit of acetone and wipe the letters clean.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

No need to mask the letters to paint.  Just spray the whole thing black, let it tack up a bit, then dip your rag tipped finger into a bit of acetone and wipe the letters clean.

Excellent solution.

[Rnobx67]

GSXR controls are tricky to wire to. Just so you know. I'm a huge fan of momentary push buttons for handlebars. There's plenty of inexpensive versions of those out there. You send me anything you want, or continue to post here. Matters not to me. 

What kind of factory switch is better ? I want to keep something normal, (with red for start, logos for lights....)

[calj737]

The issue with the modern GSXR controls is all the extra wires that are not used with an M-Unit install. There's no Flash-to-Pass function with an M-Unit, there's at least 3 wires in the GSXR control for headlight power, 3-4 more for TURNS, etc...

So your handlebar controls will have functional buttons with no operation. This is why I use momentary push buttons. Each button does 1 thing, and has 2 control modes. Press once, do this... press twice, do that... Press 2 buttons simultaneously, do something else. Plus I find them ergonomically more comfortable. But thats my preference. Just post a clear picture of your controls, and the year of the donor bike, and I'll see what I can do to make you a mapping table.

[Rnobx67]

I finally order my parts, with a m-unit, very weird all I'm ordering cost 666$