Topic: Oil Light ON, here's what I've done so far.

[WaxhawFive]

Oil light is now ON at all times, idle to redline.
I installed a new oil pressure switch from 4-into-1
Verified that the light goes OFF when I disconnect the pressure switch (this verifies that the wire isn't finding another ground somewhere else).
It "LOOKS" wet under the rocker caps
Changed oil using Honda 10-40 GN4

Engine sounds fine.  Should I need to install a temporary gauge to check oil pressure?

[05c50]

I would.........and I'd stop revving the engine to "red line" until you find out if you have oil pressure.

.......Paul

[BomberMann650]

Have you removed the oil pump to make sure the o-ring seals are good?
When my seals split the pump was still able to deliver some oil to the top end.  But it also began to fill the left side engine cover.  Spilled about a half quart when I unscrewed it.

[Jimray23]

I would.........and I'd stop revving the engine to "red line" until you find out if you have oil pressure.

.......Paul

X2

Jimmy
1979 kz1000 ltd mkii
     dyna s ignition, dyna 3 ohm coils, solid copper core plugs, full rewire.

[Airborne 82nd]

I wouldn't even start it until you put a gauge on and find out for sure what is going on. When was the last time you had the pan off? What does the screen look like? +1 on checking the pump.

[markreimer]

Oh boy I agree, don't run that bike till you know it's pushing oil up there hard. One easy thing to do is remove the right side oil galley cap and hit the starter with ththe kill switch off. Oil should come pouring out of there, so have a bucket and rag ready. Easier with a second set of hands.

With the engine running that port should blow oil all over your floor, so don't have the killswitch on! If you're not getting much of anything, or nothing at all, something is screwy.

Any chance you changed the oil recently, or removed the pump? I'm wondering if you have an plait bubble in the pump. 


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[WaxhawFive]

I put a gauge in place of the switch and get 70psi at idle, 80psi at 4krpm.  This seems right to me.

[WaxhawFive]

I tested the new switch for continuity in free air, and then with some air pressure, and it worked as it should.

So I re-installed the switch and now the light goes off at idle.  Haven't ridden it yet, bit I bet it's going to be OK.  I hate it when a problem fixes itself with no real solution.  I'll update if the problem resurfaces.  Maybe I burped out an air bubble under the switch? 

[markreimer]

How odd! 60-70 at idle with a cold engine is right. I get about 60-65. It'll drop down to about ten at idle once you're at full running temp, and then average around ten psi per thousand rpm.

I kinda doubt an air bubble if the pressure was correct right off the bat with the gauge. Sounds like an electrical issue of some kind. Better that than an engine one though!


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[drumstyx]

Did you, in fact, change the oil recently, or perhaps immediately before? I found it took *ages* (maybe 15 seconds? I don't remember well) for the oil light to turn off after I'd drained the engine real well. Kind of scary seeing the engine actually running with the oil light on! But at least I knew there was still some fresh oil all around (this was a 15 minute change after a rebuild).

Could also be that the new switch is a bit defective, and jostled free by removing it? I had a coolant switch like that on my Concours.

[Don R]

 Maybe just a sticky switch, it's always something. If it's not a sticky switch, it's lint in your belly button.

[Deltarider]

Have you removed the oil pump to make sure the o-ring seals are good?

You don't have to remove the oil pump for that. Oil press switches are known to fail sooner or later on our Fours. Cheap replacement.

[markreimer]

Have you removed the oil pump to make sure the o-ring seals are good?

You don't have to remove the oil pump for that. Oil press switches are known to fail sooner or later on our Fours. Cheap replacement.

How would you check/replace without removing the pump?

My 750 was showing zero pressure on my gauge during cold morning starts. A blip of throttle would bring pressure up. After a minute pressure would stay up.

I removed the pump, replaced all the seals and now have perfect pressure all the time. Can't see how you could replace seals with the pump in the engine.


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[Deltarider]

How would you check/replace without removing the pump?

He was not talking about replacing but checking. On my bike you can easily check if seals are leaking by removing the left cover. Then if they are leaking, removing the oilpump cover is enough to replace them.

[WaxhawFive]

Took a ride today and once the oil warmed the oil light came back on.  I suppose it could be that the new switch is faulty.  Or could this be a symptom of an oil pump issue?   

[drumstyx]

Check the actual numbers for pressure when it's warm -- that is, put that temporary pressure gauge back in, and warm it up in your garage, watching the pressure settle at its hot level.

Pressure switches are calibrated for a certain pressure, and it's certainly possible for that calibration to be off, even from new.

[BomberMann650]

There could be an issue with the pressure valves in the pump and oil filter bolt.
(Provided the system is anything akin to the 550)

I didn't have any problems with a new pressure sensor (which is what it is, it only switches on the dummy light).

[ekpent]

 Did I miss somewhere where the bike was actually identified ? Is that a 550F tank in your sig pic ?

[markreimer]

If it's a 750 but Elan's rebuild kit, rebuild the pump and be done with it. He's a member here and his kit is excellent. It fixed all my oil pressure issues.


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[WaxhawFive]

Sorry, it's a '75 CB500F. 

[BomberMann650]

Does your oil pump look like this?

[WaxhawFive]

Yes, why do you ask?

[BomberMann650]

Making sure I was thinking of the right sort of pump.

Have you had any luck fixing it?