Author Topic: "Fried Intake Valves" 1976 CB550 (Read 5892 times)

Can550 · « **Reply #25 on:** March 24, 2017, 12:04:36 PM »

Here is the link of an ended listing on e bay

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/222401229289

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Can550 · « **Reply #26 on:** March 24, 2017, 12:08:55 PM »

These are the only images I have as of now

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flybox1 · « **Reply #27 on:** March 24, 2017, 12:41:22 PM »

Love it! Even the color. Looks well kept.
Jardine pipes are nice. Original seat too, perhaps...
Good luck with getting it back on the road.

BomberMann650 · « **Reply #28 on:** March 24, 2017, 12:56:23 PM »

What? No saddlebags?!

Can550 · « **Reply #29 on:** March 24, 2017, 01:30:50 PM »

Saddlebags lol

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DaveBarbier · « **Reply #30 on:** March 24, 2017, 01:41:04 PM »

Looks really nice and clean. With the description of fried intake valves I was expecting a crap looking bike. Not the case at all, nice bike. It'll be a nice representation of a 550 once you get the motor situated.

Can550 · « **Reply #31 on:** March 24, 2017, 02:04:31 PM »

Thanks all for encouraging words. Yes it does look clean (bought it from original first owner). Now I'm keeping my fingers crossed that photos are recent and not from 1977 lol
That will be unfair if so.

Owner sounded a real gentleman and I took his word.

I'm not sure as to how much time and $$ it will cost to fix but condition is what got me in to it.

I'm not sure about vetter fairing but my childhood recollection of sound system in similar fairing with cassette player may motivate me to keep the fairing on for sometime. I don't think it's easy clip on/off sort though.

I'm mentally prepared for
Battery
Chain + sprocket
Tyres tubes
All lubes
Brake pads and shoes

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BomberMann650 · « **Reply #32 on:** March 24, 2017, 02:30:14 PM »

I still want to know what the hell happened inside the top end!

Good news tho. Entire engines can be picked up rather cheaply. Or you can just the fresh head if you arent ready to begin hoarding

Can550 · « **Reply #33 on:** March 24, 2017, 03:02:08 PM »

As soon as I have the bike, will be on the board/ forum to seek advices and figure out

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Can550 · « **Reply #34 on:** April 07, 2017, 06:30:53 AM »

So finally she is on her way. Can't wait to have her in my garage. My hands are itching to wrench and have her back on road.

PO, very kind of him to include a brand new battery and some other stuff as goodwill gesture.

Will take loads of photos as Before and post soon. Hope they can get here today otherwise it will be on Monday

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bochnak · « **Reply #35 on:** April 07, 2017, 07:00:28 AM »

When the bike arrives, perform a compression and leak down test. That will tell you where the problem lies:

And if you need to do a top end:

Can550 · « **Reply #36 on:** April 07, 2017, 01:10:23 PM »

I shall do so perhaps with kick paddle.

Can I drop oil onto valves ? Considering mixture of 10-30 oil and ATF

what is advised ?

Oh and on compression test what numbers are encouraging

Thanks

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BomberMann650 · « **Reply #37 on:** April 07, 2017, 01:47:07 PM »

You'll have a hard time doing a compression test with the kick starter. if thats what you had in mind.

The number on the gauage is not so important as the relative equal-ness of the 4 cylinders. Cold unused engines don't score as high anyway. If you end up with something like 130, 134, 128, 132 thats fine. If any one of those cylinders drops into the 2 digit numbers, you have an issue.
The leak down test is a tell all however.

jonda500 · « **Reply #38 on:** April 07, 2017, 04:52:50 PM »

I have never had any trouble doing compression tests using the kickstarter- pull all the plugs out, make sure the choke is off and the throttle is held fully open, same 7 or 8 kicks for each cylinder, John

Can550 · « **Reply #39 on:** April 07, 2017, 05:18:43 PM »

Will remove tank?
By the way what is the opinion on dropping oil in tappet holes ? Since problem initially is with valves. Will be removing tank as I suspect there will be rust and gunk.

Gas is 12-14 years old but good thing he cleaned carbs and disconnected fuel line. Poured fuel stabilizer several times in these years.

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Can550 · « **Reply #40 on:** April 07, 2017, 09:24:00 PM »

Question on seat/ seat cover
Was wondering if I should treat seat cover with some moisturizer or something as it has been sitting unused for 12-15 years may have become prone to crack/ tear, brittle.

I have Maguire's vinyl conditioner , should I clean and massage on ? Or there's some other tip & trick.

It's in pretty good condition and would hate to see it crack/ tear.

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bryanj · « **Reply #41 on:** April 08, 2017, 06:06:15 AM »

I'm in UK and don't get on this board much anymore but here is a set of things to do before trying to start.

Fit battery and remove spark plugs plus disconnect headlamp for tests(saves battery!)

Spin engine on starter till oil light goes out

There is a cover on each end of the head held on with a crosspoint screw--remover both

You will then see a 10mm headed bolt holding on a steel bracket the removed screw goes into, remove these but do not mix them up as they are handed, also take care with the washers as there is a soft alloy one between the bracket and the head.

If you now spin the engine oil should flood out of the holes the bolts were in

This proves oil flow to the camshaft and head area, if flow is good reassemble and go through a service and carb clean to try and start. If oil flow not good get a head, cam and top cover complete (ebay) along with gasket set and replace head AFTER removing cylinders and cleaning oil jets in dowels at base gasket level.

To to a top end rebuild you will need a manual---Honda is best followed by Clymer, hand tools, 3/8 drive socket set and a torque wrench Patience and if all the bits to hand, a weekend

Can550 · « **Reply #42 on:** April 11, 2017, 06:36:08 PM »

So I got the bike four days ago. Charged and put new battery, start switch/ button is pressed in all the way and would not activate starter motor.

Cranked by jumping on solenoid, it cranked but did not fire up.

A Honda mechanic I know, came to have a look and said "it is cam chain tensioner" to start with. Timing is off.

Generally how much it should cost for such job ? Or how hard it's for someone who has never done this before ?
Thanks

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Can550 · « **Reply #43 on:** April 11, 2017, 06:41:52 PM »

Bike overall is decent for age. Tank seems to be fine except with surface rust with 12 years old gas + fuel stabilizer

Last photo shows rust built on baffles, can I just sand it and paint right there or shall I pull the baffles out. These are jardine 4 into 2

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scottly · « **Reply #44 on:** April 11, 2017, 10:11:15 PM »

Quote from: Can550 on April 11, 2017, 06:36:08 PM

A Honda mechanic I know, came to have a look and said "it is cam chain tensioner" to start with. Timing is off.

Ignition timing is not affected by cam timing on these bikes, and it's not easy to check cam timing, so I wouldn't put anymore faith in this diagnosis than the one about fried valves.

Is there any power getting to the coils? A blown main fuse would prevent the electric starter from working with the button, as well as prevent the motor from running when the solenoid is jumped. When you turn the key on, do you get any lights? When cranking the motor, do you have spark?

bryanj · « **Reply #45 on:** April 11, 2017, 11:51:08 PM »

Down on the left side by the rear brake light switch is a rubber boot in which the wires from the points (blue and yellow) connect, not uncommon for them to get disconnected.

Cam chain tension has no effect on ignition timing at all as points are on end of crank not cam.

You need a manual and an OLD Honda man to run through everything methodically.

Air fare is a bit much to come and help sorry

Can550 · « **Reply #46 on:** April 12, 2017, 04:53:02 AM »

When turn the key, all required lights (neutral, oil, headlight, tail light) turn ON

There is good spark (after putting new spark plugs).

When turned over, I noticed cylinder 4 both valves adjustment bolts come up together at the same time.

He referred to timing of cam chain being out a tooth or so (which I have no clue about)

I will check rubber boot by the brake light switch (isn't it on right side when sitting on bike?)

Thanks

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BomberMann650 · « **Reply #47 on:** April 12, 2017, 07:34:53 PM »

Quote from: Can550 on April 12, 2017, 04:53:02 AM

When turned over, I noticed cylinder 4 both valves adjustment bolts come up together at the same time.

Both valves close (tappets up) when the cylinder is ready to combust.

Intake down, intake up, BOOM!, exhaust down, exhaust up, repeat.

scottly · « **Reply #48 on:** April 12, 2017, 08:49:04 PM »

Do a compression test and/or leak down test. The leak-down test will tell if the valves are sealing, and the cranking compression test will help identify if there is a cam timing problem.

Can550 · « **Reply #49 on:** April 12, 2017, 09:19:15 PM »

Thanks everyone for all the guiding and advising posts. I'll attach few photos to show you what I found once it was topless

Pictures will speak thousand words and I'm now quiet!

Cam is broken, sprocket is damaged, rocker arms are marked/ scratched.

One of the bolts that seat sprocket on to camshaft, came loose, was hitting and ultimately broke into half and was sitting right there ( luckily did not fall down) plus some particles of broken bolt which were carefully removed.

To move forward, I need a cam with all rockers, close the top and try cranking it. Await valuable input and if some is selling required parts, pls let me know.

Guess it is not going to be ready soon

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Author Topic: "Fried Intake Valves" 1976 CB550 (Read 5892 times)