Topic: recommendation on carb sync tool

[ekpent]

 I think I did make a mistake on my original post,did Euro and not Sterling. The price of the  deluxe with the bag is 68 pounds + 5 pounds delivery to usa for a total of 73 pounds X 1.25(current exchange rate for a total of $91.03 usd delivered, 2 dollars more than the Motion Pro.  http://www.carbtune.com/carbpric.html
  $11.22 cheaper if you do not want the nylon bag for a total of around $80.00

[Garage_guy_chris]

here is my low cost solution to carb balancing mine is a little fancier than it has to be but it works very well. Its got a 4 port air manifold with nipples at the bottom then 4 lengths of hose near the carb end there is a 0.030" welding tip in the lines for dampening. Filled with regular dextron ATF. I have used it quite a few times with no issues it is fast reacting and very accurate.

[Jarrett_Honda]

Looks like I need to get the carbtune

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[Deltarider]

here is my low cost solution to carb balancing mine is a little fancier than it has to be but it works very well. Its got a 4 port air manifold with nipples at the bottom then 4 lengths of hose near the carb end there is a 0.030" welding tip in the lines for dampening. Filled with regular dextron ATF. I have used it quite a few times with no issues it is fast reacting and very accurate.

I always regretted I didn't make one like yours, the more I found my set of meters always a bit fidly (either you dampen too much or you dampen too little and you're never sure if it hasn't lost it's calibration). I love simplicity and maybe now that I have more time, I'll build one like yours just for the fun of it and see if I can improve it by making that ATF react a little less hyper. Anyway yours never lies and can't loose calibration and so simplicity wins. A tip that I have not read so far: I believe you must have extra long length of the tubes towards the carbs to avoid fluid being sucked in and always choose a fluid that can do no harm like ATF. I remember the original Morgan had mercury in the tubes, not really the stuff you wanna have around. I wonder what's in their tubes now.

[Terry in Australia]

I wonder what's in their tubes now.

Aluminium rods in my Morgan, they haven't used Mercury in many years.

[Deltarider]

Aluminium rods in my Morgan, they haven't used Mercury in many years.

Aha, I wonder if you could make a very simple tester by interconnecting the vacuum openings with transparent vinyl tubes and have something like a steel ball in the middle that has to stay within a marked section similar to the carpenters tool that you use to check if something is level (can't think of the word). Ofcourse steelbal and the inside of that tube would need to have some sort of drag to prevent that steelball going hither and thither too nervously.

[drumstyx]

As others have said, the carbtune is pretty remarkably cheap right now. Even in Canada, it was only around $120CAD shipped IIRC.

For us addicts, having a good tool is worthwhile. I've got 2 multi-carb bikes to keep running, another one or two I'll probably get going at some point, not to mention the 10 or so bikes I've been through in the last 5 years. I just got sick of using my dad's old 4 dial gauges.

All that said, the accuracy of a carbtune is *probably* wasted on these bikes, at least from my short experience with my 750. On the '78, the adjusters being on the throttle slides themselves means you can never really get it perfect -- every movement while you're in there makes a difference. More modern carbs have the adjustments on the linkages between carbs, and of course CV carbs are less susceptible to minor pressure on parts changing the readings.

[Deltarider]

you can never really get it perfect

If you mean by perfect they all 4 have to be exactly the same, be in for frustration. Honda specified a range for each model. For my model it's to be within 3 cm Hg, but if I remember well for the CB650 it's OK when it's within 6 cm Hg. And btw, for a part you can adjust also by listening. 

[drumstyx]

here is my low cost solution to carb balancing mine is a little fancier than it has to be but it works very well. Its got a 4 port air manifold with nipples at the bottom then 4 lengths of hose near the carb end there is a 0.030" welding tip in the lines for dampening. Filled with regular dextron ATF. I have used it quite a few times with no issues it is fast reacting and very accurate.

I always regretted I didn't make one like yours, the more I found my set of meters always a bit fidly (either you dampen too much or you dampen too little and you're never sure if it hasn't lost it's calibration). I love simplicity and maybe now that I have more time, I'll build one like yours just for the fun of it and see if I can improve it by making that ATF react a little less hyper. Anyway yours never lies and can't loose calibration and so simplicity wins. A tip that I have not read so far: I believe you must have extra long length of the tubes towards the carbs to avoid fluid being sucked in and always choose a fluid that can do no harm like ATF. I remember the original Morgan had mercury in the tubes, not really the stuff you wanna have around. I wonder what's in their tubes now.

I've been lusting for a mercury gauge since I started syncing carbs. Honestly, nothing is better. The large scale of the mercury makes it incredibly easy to see, as well as basically being self damping because of the high density.

It's not gonna kill ya if you're careful! The muriatic acid I can buy at the hardware store can do a damn sight more damage, just that my body tells me it's dangerous (take a whiff, I dare ya), while mercury is a silent danger.

[ekpent]

 If you can find a mercury type local that is good but technically they would be illegal to ship at least through the post office. They don't even want you shipping a thermometer anymore  https://stamps.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/179/~/usps-content-restrictions  Scroll down a little in non allowed.

[carnivorous chicken]

I brought my mercury tool to Boston when I moved there and ordered replacement mercury through the mail, from Oregon. It was delivered no problem (and labelled). I left it in Boston when I moved back to Phoenix, and that's when I got the Carbtune.

[Jimray23]

If you can find a mercury type local that is good but technically they would be illegal to ship at least through the post office. They don't even want you shipping a thermometer anymore  https://stamps.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/179/~/usps-content-restrictions  Scroll down a little in non allowed.

You can get anything in the mail, you may just have to pay more for delivery

Jimmy
1979 kz1000 ltd mkii
     dyna s ignition, dyna 3 ohm coils, solid copper core plugs, full rewire.

[Imago]

Yikes!

Mine are so old they are full of Mercury!

Very little bounce though...   

[Jarrett_Honda]

Got my Carbtune Pro. Not too bad. I can see how such a tool would come in handy.

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[iFart]

here is my low cost solution to carb balancing mine is a little fancier than it has to be but it works very well. Its got a 4 port air manifold with nipples at the bottom then 4 lengths of hose near the carb end there is a 0.030" welding tip in the lines for dampening. Filled with regular dextron ATF. I have used it quite a few times with no issues it is fast reacting and very accurate.

Maybe you can help me out with this; I built one of these with ATF and mig welding tips tapped to m5*.8 to act as the adapter and restrictor and have been able to hook it up but can't seem to get them all level. 1&2 are similar and 3&4 are similar but I can't seem to get all of them together on a similar plane.

Have any tips on how to adjust once running? I.e. 1&2 are pulling harder so loosen/tighten air idle screw etc. I can't seem to find a dummies guide that spells it out for me.

[ekpent]

 The actual synch is done with the large nut at the top of the carbs that sit under the rubber boots if you still have them and they raise and lower the slides if that is what your asking ?

[carnivorous chicken]

Maybe you can help me out with this; I built one of these with ATF and mig welding tips tapped to m5*.8 to act as the adapter and restrictor and have been able to hook it up but can't seem to get them all level. 1&2 are similar and 3&4 are similar but I can't seem to get all of them together on a similar plane.

Have any tips on how to adjust once running? I.e. 1&2 are pulling harder so loosen/tighten air idle screw etc. I can't seem to find a dummies guide that spells it out for me.

Syncing carbs is essentially the same idea on all of the SOHC fours with some minor variations in how it's done. Some later bikes require taking off the top of the carbs. Some early bikes were done at where the cable goes in to the carb tops (early CB750s with one cable that splits into four, e.g.). Some later bikes with accelerator pumps are supposed to match to the #2 carb.  Which bike and year are you running?

[Jarrett_Honda]

here is my low cost solution to carb balancing mine is a little fancier than it has to be but it works very well. Its got a 4 port air manifold with nipples at the bottom then 4 lengths of hose near the carb end there is a 0.030" welding tip in the lines for dampening. Filled with regular dextron ATF. I have used it quite a few times with no issues it is fast reacting and very accurate.

Maybe you can help me out with this; I built one of these with ATF and mig welding tips tapped to m5*.8 to act as the adapter and restrictor and have been able to hook it up but can't seem to get them all level. 1&2 are similar and 3&4 are similar but I can't seem to get all of them together on a similar plane.

Have any tips on how to adjust once running? I.e. 1&2 are pulling harder so loosen/tighten air idle screw etc. I can't seem to find a dummies guide that spells it out for me.

I found it easy to adjust 1 to 2 and 4 to 3. Then 3 to 2 and 1 to 2 amd 4 to 3 until you get where you need to be.

That worked for me. Just remember adjusting one will affect another.

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[Jarrett_Honda]

Well that last screen shot sucked. So blurry.

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[Terry in Australia]

Thank God for that, I thought I was drunk!

[iFart]

The actual synch is done with the large nut at the top of the carbs that sit under the rubber boots if you still have them and they raise and lower the slides if that is what your asking ?

Oh...whoops and good to know! Guess youtube misled me or I wasn't paying attention. Thanks.