Topic: Removing swingarm bushings?

[HondaMan]

Damn. $24 more. Should I put the new bushings in before I go to the powder coaters?

I wouldn't. You will have to remove their paint from the ends of the pivot tube, and any inside. It scrapes off, or hones off with a cylinder hone (like a brake cylinder hone). You might want to just install some allthread rod thru it with fender washers and nuts on the ends to keep them from painting the ends and the inside. You can get this at Home Despot.

[stereosilence]

Ok. So, swingarm is PC'ed and the excess powder is more or less removed from inside the tube (there is some pitting down in there).

My plan is to heat the swingarm to 200 degrees for an hour in the oven, then take my bushings out of the freezer and jam them in.

Should they fit right in? Do you need to use a block of wood or something to tap them in or what? When I put my finger down the swingarm tube, there is a line I can feel. Do I need to measure how far in the bushings go or do I just push them until they stop going in? Should I grease the bushings with anything to make them go in better?

Thanks guys.

[HondaMan]

Ok. So, swingarm is PC'ed and the excess powder is more or less removed from inside the tube (there is some pitting down in there).

My plan is to heat the swingarm to 200 degrees for an hour in the oven, then take my bushings out of the freezer and jam them in.

Should they fit right in? Do you need to use a block of wood or something to tap them in or what? When I put my finger down the swingarm tube, there is a line I can feel. Do I need to measure how far in the bushings go or do I just push them until they stop going in? Should I grease the bushings with anything to make them go in better?

Thanks guys.

They need to be finessed in, or they can buckle. If this happens, their ID becomes smaller than the collar. If that happens, you will have to hone the ID until it makes .001" clearance with the bushings and collar.

The outer edge of the bushing(s) is to be recessed .200" to .210" into the swingarm tube. This allows the room for the felt washer (grease seal) to sit gently captured by the outer phenolic end cap (if you do not use the flanged bushings) on each side. Then, when the arm is greased, the felt washer soaks up and swells up with grease to make the waterproof seal at the end.

So, grease both the bushing and the ID of the swingarm tube (ends) immediately before assembly. I have some stepped bronze collars that I use as anvils to press the bushings into place. They can be pressed (pulled, really) by using some 5/8" allthread rod all the way thru the center of the arm, with big strong flat washers on the ends, to screw the bushings into place. Be sure to make some sort of small collar to press them down inside, that important .200"-.210", all in one smooth motion. If you stop pressing at the ends of the tube and try to start again later, it will not work out well. The bronze settles into the grain of the steel in minutes, and usually will not move again without damage.

[stereosilence]

It sounds like I need to get them started by hand and maybe use very light tapping to get them flush if they don't go. Then I can use my rod and washers that I used to get it out to push it down in. Seems like this swingarm is just a pain from start to finish.

[stereosilence]

Can I use lithium grease (the spray) or generic grease to get them in? I don't have the grease gun and all that yet.

[KC_Northstar]

I just got done installing bronze swing arm bushings about an hour ago.
Here is how I did it.  The first picture is the saw I used to saw the old
bushings out.  Some people stick a blade through and then reattach the
saw and saw both sides at once.  I used this little handle saw to saw one
side at a time.  They came out real easy after sawing through in two
different spots.
 
I used the method Honda Man recommends to install the new ones:

The second picture shows what I used to install the new bushings.  It’s a
half inch threaded rod.  On the left are two nuts tightened against each
other followed by a couple washers and then a three quarter inch socket.
The socket will slide into the swing and just helps keep the rod centered.
At the other end is the new bushing followed by another three quarter inch
socket with duct tape marking the .20 recess point.  I put the side of the
socket that goes on the ratchet against the bushing, then another washer
and the nut.  (That’s a tape measure holding things up)
I lubed the swing arm and new bushing with 10W30.
I put the swing arm in the oven at 250 for 10 minutes and the
bushings were in the freezer overnight.

The last picture shows it ready to start cranking.  A washer after the socket
and then the nut.  The other socket is now inside the swing arm helping keep
things centered.  Notice the small band of duct tape around the end of the socket
that marks .20   All that is left to do is crank the nut until the socket goes into the
swing arm up to the tape mark.
Went in with ease.  When doing the other side you will have to omit the socket
that was used to center the rod as the already installed bushing is in the way.

KC

[stereosilence]

Excellent. I did that exact thing and it worked like a charm! I think I put the bushings in .01 or .02 too far (once they got flush, they went in much easier). But if that causes a problem, I'll cross that bridge when I get there. Maybe just add an extra ring of felt on each side or something.

Thanks for all the help guys!

[D-Ral]

Is it possible to powder coat the swing arm with the original bushings inside? I have no play in my swingarm.

[stereosilence]

I guess they could. Also, they can just freeze up. Removing the old bushings was really tough.

[calj737]

Is it possible to powder coat the swing arm with the original bushings inside? I have no play in my swingarm.

Yes, but it is strongly discouraged. Firstly, blast media used to prep the surface for powder coating will get inside the bushing surfaces, and along the entire length of the pivot bolt. Secondly, grease and grime trapped inside the pivot tube will leech during the baking process and may contaminate the coating, preventing proper adhesion.

It is strongly recommended by all professional powder coasters to remove the bushings in the pivot and shock tubes. It's a great opportunity to replace them upon re-installation and your power coated product will look like millions as a result.

[fendersrule]

Replacing swingarm bushings was the hardest thing I've ever had to do for a motorcycle. It makes everything else look so easy.

Just sayin….

On my CB450, the hacksaw trick didn't work. I went and got a nice chisel set to help "break" them. Didn't work. I destroyed a perfectly good socket trying for an hour to pound them out with a sledge hammer. Didn't work.

Finally took them over to my friend's house, who is a Peterbuilt mechanic. He weighs about 280lbs. Watching him crush down own them with a sledge hammer for 3 minutes was scary. Oh wow, we got some movement!. Oh, now we don't again. Didn't work.

He finally took the swing arm  to work and had them pressed out with their tool.

Swingarm bushings are F*$ing bull#$%*. I'd probably ship them to Mark next time.

Get your powder coating done after removing them is my recommendation. I got mine done before. I didn't actually cause much damage to the finish after all of the above. Just some very minor touchup was needed.

[D-Ral]

I will remove them first. It was a bit of a dumb question considering how many others have asked it on the forum, I later found out. I guess I was too lazy to search. I will be giving it a shot this weekend.

[fiascoelment]

Hi All,

I have removed my swingarm bushings and shock bushings over the weekend.
I didnt have much trouble on removing the shock bushing, I used a 15 MM socket with a 3/8 x 1/2 in. hex bolt.

However I did have trouble removing the front bushing, I used the hacksaw method, now I think I have gone messed up my swingarm going to hard with the saw.

Is my swingarm considered garbage and would need to source another one or will I still be able to use it? I am planning on buying the bronze bushing as replacement. I accept any recommendation aswell

[Stev-o]

From the looks of it, I see nothing.

[pjlogue]

I removed the bolt from my swingarm and I think I have the dust cap and possibly pivot off.

How to I get the bushing out?

Dust cap implies you are referring to the pivot bushing not the shock bushing.  The pivot bushing you have to pound out with a metal rod from the opposite side.  (the shock bushing is the hacksaw method.) (I can't see a hacksaw blade working on the pivot bushing in any reasonable time frame)   Use a 1/2" dia.  steel ~18" long rod and shape  one end so it is cut at a slight angle.  Put the longest part of the end against the end of the bushing and give it a good whack with a metal hammer.  The trick is to impart the energy of the hammer to the bushing.  Any rod that can deform, will and not transmit the energy.  Work your way around the bushing.  It takes time but it will come out.  Soak the bushing joint the day before with PB Blaster.  It will help.  The inside of the swing arm may be galled from dirt/rust getting inside so you may need to dress the inside after you get the bushing out. 

-P.

[HondaMan]

Excellent. I did that exact thing and it worked like a charm! I think I put the bushings in .01 or .02 too far (once they got flush, they went in much easier). But if that causes a problem, I'll cross that bridge when I get there. Maybe just add an extra ring of felt on each side or something.

Thanks for all the help guys!

The outside end of the bushings should be 0.210" inset into the arm. This gives room for the felt seal and the end cap bearing (Honda calls it a "bush") that clips in. This end bearing sets the side-to-side slip limit of the arm in between the frame, very important!