Topic: changing spark plug wires

[cb750f-2010656]

Are the wires a unit with the coils?  I think I tried removing one once and it wouldn't come out.  (Might be the source of my current issue)

[evanphi]

YEs they are all one piece. They can be spliced out, but it is a hack job.

But coils rarely, if ever, go "bad". Might be something else. What is the issue?

I replaced mine because my wires were getting too stiff and cracking. Now I can replace my wires when I want to.

[disco]

See this thread in the "Tips/Tricks" section.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,17310.0.html

[Maximum Carnage]

Yes, I'd check to make sure you have spark on all four but if you need or want to swamp it out just replace the whole unit as you should. Go with a Dynatek Coil and like Evanphi stated you'll have the option to change wires as needed.
Got my Dynatek coil for under $100 and wires from Napa. 

[cb750f-2010656]

Dang.  Well, looks like I'll just buy some aftermarket coils with interchangeable wires.  Both my fork seals are blown, on bent forks.  That aren't meant to be rebuilt.  The fork oil is covering everything up there.  My wires are a bit stiff, and I'm having intermittent running issues (another thread).  Looking like I should put her back in storage until I win the lotto.

[flybox1]

Just cut the wires back to about 4", and install new wires using NGK splice kits.

[iFart]

Whats the consensus of trimming back just a little bit of the spark plug wire an inserting a connector(i.e. chopped nail, bit of solder, electrical wire) for the resistor cap to better transfer?

[Deltarider]

Have you had a look at a sparkplug cap (top, inside) yet? There's supposed to be some sort of fixed screw in there. The idea is by twisting to screw the cap on the HTlead. Trimming a mm is probably enough to have it connect well again.

[flybox1]

Whats the consensus of trimming back just a little bit of the spark plug wire an inserting a connector(i.e. chopped nail, bit of solder, electrical wire) for the resistor cap to better transfer?

Just trim it back mm by mm till you get to good copper.  No need to insert anything but the plug cap.
Shouldnt be much more than 5mm total

[iFart]

I was wondering as I read the post where people trim the wire all the way back to the coil and stick a nail in the end. I was wondering if you could slap something in the end of the wire to help the cap screw in and grip cause my wires are brittle. I trimmed a mm or 2 off and the casing just crumbled around where I cut.

I got new NGK resistor caps cause they were only like $3 a pop.

I'm can't tell if the wires are copper or not. They just look like multiple almost braided silver colored wires running the perimeter of the hole where the core should be.

Not to hijack the thread but I get a good spark on all the plugs but cylinder 1's pipe doesn't heat up like the others. I've checked and double checked timing, valve tappets, slapped new hose clamps on to insulators in case of an air leak so I just keep looking for something else that might be at fault.

I'd like to run new wires from the base of the core but I also don't want to if I don't have to. Oh if money was no issue.

[Deltarider]

but cylinder 1's pipe doesn't heat up like the others.

But when, right after a cold start? At idle? At any rpm?

[iFart]

Most all the time; I've ran it and let it come up to operating temperature for say 20 minutes when I was trying to sync the carbs and it was still noticeably cooler than the other 3.

When I first got it running I noticed this and blocked the carb intake with my hand and you could hear it awaken but I checked through it's carb and everything seemed in order there too.

[flybox1]

I was wondering as I read the post where people trim the wire all the way back to the coil and stick a nail in the end. I was wondering if you could slap something in the end of the wire to help the cap screw in and grip cause my wires are brittle. I trimmed a mm or 2 off and the casing just crumbled around where I cut.
Might have to trim a little more.  Youre fine.
I got new NGK resistor caps cause they were only like $3 a pop. good

I'm can't tell if the wires are copper or not. They just look like multiple almost braided silver colored wires running the perimeter of the hole where the core should be. theyre copper..

Not to hijack the thread but I get a good spark on all the plugs but cylinder 1's pipe doesn't heat up like the others. I've checked and double checked timing, valve tappets, slapped new hose clamps on to insulators in case of an air leak so I just keep looking for something else that might be at fault.

I'd like to run new wires from the base of the core but I also don't want to if I don't have to. Oh if money was no issue.

No need to trim it all the way back to the coil.  but in the event you decide to, as I mentioned, NGK sells splice kits.  they do a good job.

[markreimer]

I trimmed mine back to about 1-2 inches from the coil after I saw sparks arching through the wires to the engine close to the plug caps. The wires were still firmly held into the coils. I used the NGK splice kit, new wire and NGK caps. I did that last year and it's been running great ever since. Very easy to instal. Just make sure you get the right caps (shape and resistance) and wire.

[cb750f-2010656]

I find that when I lift the cap off of #3 plug a little bit it begins arcing the gap and presto, sounds good.  Put it back and it may or may not run great for a sec but then loses it again.  It's a bright fat blue spark.  Perhaps that cylinder is consuming more oil than the others and fouling the plug?  Never heard of a plug fouling and then coming back without intervention by the mechanic, though.

[markreimer]

I find that when I lift the cap off of #3 plug a little bit it begins arcing the gap and presto, sounds good.  Put it back and it may or may not run great for a sec but then loses it again.  It's a bright fat blue spark.  Perhaps that cylinder is consuming more oil than the others and fouling the plug?  Never heard of a plug fouling and then coming back without intervention by the mechanic, though.

That is exactly what happened on my 750, except it was cylinder #2. It would fire inconsistently unless I wiggled the cap and wire around a bit. I was fiddling with it one night in the dark, and that's when I saw the sparks arching through the caps and wire finally. I replaced the wires and caps and boom, problem disappeared.