Topic: Approach to installing front wheel bearings

[zabzob]

Old front wheel bearings are out and the parts are all cleaned up. I've been searching for the best method to install new bearings. I was thinking that I'd put in bearing on the side opposite the speedo gear, and bottom it out on that rim in the hub. Then I'd put the spacer in the opposite side, and then the bearing on the gear side, tapping it down until there is just a little play in the spacer.

Other methods show doing the speedo side first, and I'm not sure why. If there's a good reason for it I'm open to being enlightened.

[HondaMan]

Old front wheel bearings are out and the parts are all cleaned up. I've been searching for the best method to install new bearings. I was thinking that I'd put in bearing on the side opposite the speedo gear, and bottom it out on that rim in the hub. Then I'd put the spacer in the opposite side, and then the bearing on the gear side, tapping it down until there is just a little play in the spacer.

Other methods show doing the speedo side first, and I'm not sure why. If there's a good reason for it I'm open to being enlightened.

You have it right!
When tapping in the opposite bearing, go slowly until it just traps the collar between the 2 bearings, then tap down the outer race a tad bit more so it holds the collar snugly. This will preload the slack of the bearing all to one side, which will stabilize it as the bearing breaks in. Don't be surprised to pull it apart in 1000 miles to re-seat it for some new slack: Honda used to make theirs very tight, which was responsible for them wearing so soon. If instead you are a little more willing to do that next "step" of maintenance, you'll have a superior front end for the rest of the bearing's life, like 70,000 miles' worth.

[zabzob]

Thanks HondaMan!

New bearings are in with the spacer just snugged up. Doing the fork seals tomorrow, then it all goes back together.

[PeWe]

I had to find a thin shim since the bearing on speedo side went in a little bit deeper, maybe a few tenth of mm to make the gear to sit correct and no get in contact with hub. It should sit flush with hub, right?
Similar as rear hub, the bearing that has a seat going in last.

[HondaMan]

I had to find a thin shim since the bearing on speedo side went in a little bit deeper, maybe a few tenth of mm to make the gear to sit correct and no get in contact with hub. It should sit flush with hub, right?
Similar as rear hub, the bearing that has a seat going in last.

I also noticed this from time-to-time: I think it was just variance in the way the hubs are machined. If they were cut to the deepest-allowed spec and the bearing happened to be the thinnest specification allowed, you get exactly what you found, PeWe!

[chewbacca5000]

I heat up the whole hub in the oven and they slide right in no tapping required.  250 to 300 degrees for a 15 minutes.  Use pot holder, to avoid burning your hands.

Put the first bearing in.  Align the spacer and then the second bearing.  You can chill the bearings if you want, but I have never done that.

[Bodi]

The hub design has the bearing opposite the retained one "floating" to self-align the races. Honda does leave the bores too tight for that to really work: maybe they have a good reason - but I don't know it.
If you drive the free bearing in by its outer race until the inner races are tight on the spacer, both bearings will be out of alignment with the inner races moved outwards from ideal. Both bearings will then  be loaded axially - they don't like that, and will wear out rapidly (still takes quite a long time actually, rapidly compared to properly aligned bearings).
If you drive it in the last little bit by the inner race, the bearings will end up properly aligned but it's somewhat abusive to the bearings. using the axle as a slide hammer is the easiest way to do this, take it easy and stop as soon as the inner races are on the spacer with some force along the axle.
You can also drive the free bearing in by the outer race, but for the last few mm stand the hub/wheel on the axle with the retained bearing inner hub against a spacer. Same thing, a bit abusive but with these methods the bearings are misaligned in the same direction during installation - so the races will be aligned in normal radial load riding.
Or just open up the hub bore with wet/dry paper until your bearing is a snug sliding fit. Try to set the free bearing as close as possible to "right" but the bearings will self-align quickly when ridden, and continue to self-align themselves with temperature changes.

[NobleHops]

The hub design has the bearing opposite the retained one "floating" to self-align the races. Honda does leave the bores too tight for that to really work: maybe they have a good reason - but I don't know it.
If you drive the free bearing in by its outer race until the inner races are tight on the spacer, both bearings will be out of alignment with the inner races moved outwards from ideal. Both bearings will then  be loaded axially - they don't like that, and will wear out rapidly (still takes quite a long time actually, rapidly compared to properly aligned bearings).
If you drive it in the last little bit by the inner race, the bearings will end up properly aligned but it's somewhat abusive to the bearings. using the axle as a slide hammer is the easiest way to do this, take it easy and stop as soon as the inner races are on the spacer with some force along the axle.
You can also drive the free bearing in by the outer race, but for the last few mm stand the hub/wheel on the axle with the retained bearing inner hub against a spacer. Same thing, a bit abusive but with these methods the bearings are misaligned in the same direction during installation - so the races will be aligned in normal radial load riding.
Or just open up the hub bore with wet/dry paper until your bearing is a snug sliding fit. Try to set the free bearing as close as possible to "right" but the bearings will self-align quickly when ridden, and continue to self-align themselves with temperature changes.

Awesome. Thanks Bodi.