Author Topic: Gas tank rust - how many pin holes is too many? Tank shop grenaded my tank (Read 9265 times)

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #25 on:** April 23, 2017, 04:24:12 AM »

Another reply from someone not understanding my post. The "Cratering" that I was talking about has nothing to do with inept welders, but rust. As I said previously, they might be pinholes on the outside, but the inside of the tank will look like a moonscape. There's nothing wrong with TIG/MIG welding, brazing etc on good metal of consistent thickness, but if you're going to attempt to weld a cratered tank from the outside with any sort of welder, you're going to have problems........

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #26 on:** April 23, 2017, 04:45:58 AM »

How much experience do you have welding rust cratered gas tanks Cal? Got any pics of your work? Remember, pics, or it didn't happen.............

Lostboy Steve · « **Reply #27 on:** April 23, 2017, 04:52:39 AM »

Some people can fill gaps, and some can't it's just the way god made you, don't feel bad. Lol

I would never solder a tank for many reasons. Mostly because solder isn't structural. If that tank flexes at all you're going to be pissing gas. If it were mine I would electrolytically remove whatever rust I could. Then I'd braze whatever pin holes I could find. Last, I would por15 it just to be 100% sure. I've mig welded several bad tanks with success but it's very difficult and can become a big mess quite quickly. When you work in an industry where people want you to weld thin rusted steel everyday, you get good at fixing little holes and welding junk metal.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #28 on:** April 23, 2017, 05:44:10 AM »

Yep, as I previously posted, you've just demonstrated what usually happens with pics of the classic "Patchwork Quilt", (thank God for grinders!) and of course, where you couldn't pile the weld in, you've welded in new metal, which is a much better idea. Good job...............

BRAD CHIEDUCH · « **Reply #29 on:** April 23, 2017, 07:17:29 AM »

I agree with calj, pinholes can be repaired with the right guy on the end of the torch as my picture demonstrates. However, if you have "craters" then the tank will need to be patched and if done properly will be a solid repair. It sounds like you are opposed to the "patch" repair method but I can guarantee that a patch will have a lot more structural integrity than a glob of solder in a corroded crater.

PetesPonies · « **Reply #30 on:** April 23, 2017, 09:33:51 AM »

I have nothing good to say about POR15. But master Series is different.

nvr2old · « **Reply #31 on:** April 23, 2017, 11:04:53 AM »

I've advocated using a radiator shop for years now, especially for pin holes along the seams. Anything bigger I've had TIG welded. Radiator shops are a great source for confirming they're sealed. They pressure test them and the liner they use is thin. I can't speak for all shops, but I have yet to have a problem. 100% repaired for less then $100. The tank has to be stripped to bare metal, though. The boiling out process ruins paint..but boy, does it determine the areas that need repair.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #32 on:** April 23, 2017, 07:01:27 PM »

Quote from: speedwobl on April 23, 2017, 07:17:29 AM

I agree with calj, pinholes can be repaired with the right guy on the end of the torch as my picture demonstrates. However, if you have "craters" then the tank will need to be patched and if done properly will be a solid repair. It sounds like you are opposed to the "patch" repair method but I can guarantee that a patch will have a lot more structural integrity than a glob of solder in a corroded crater.

Nope, not opposed to the patch method at all mate, your pinhole weld pic looks nice, but like Cal, you don't have a pic of the cratered inside, where the thickest part is your weld, even after you grind it flush. The inside will still be badly cratered, so while your welding will probably inspire confidence, it doesn't really add any strength. In that case a patch would be a much better idea. Cheers, Terry.

PetesPonies · « **Reply #33 on:** April 24, 2017, 06:38:31 AM »

This is exactly the reasons you want to seal both sides of the welds with Master Series. If you do that, you can forget about problems.

bochnak · « **Reply #34 on:** April 24, 2017, 12:16:00 PM »

I recommend using Caswell. Mix up a very small amount and take care of the pin holes from the outside, then continue to derust. Once derusted, caswell line the inside.

I have used caswell about 8 times in the past few years with zero issues.

Matt

slikwilli420 · « **Reply #35 on:** April 24, 2017, 04:25:05 PM »

Shop calls today and said they blew my tank apart and it's destroyed. I'm literally at a loss for all words.

I have another tank but I don't trust them to try their hand at this one. It looks much more sound inside. I have evaporust and prep n etch at home. I'm thinking try the evaporust and see what happens some it's non acidic.

Thoughts?

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #36 on:** April 24, 2017, 04:35:45 PM »

Well if your tank was that bad mate, it's probably a good thing it was destroyed, all the welding in the world wouldn't have saved it. I've used POR-15 with 90% success (one fail out of 10 or more) and once again, as long as you follow the instructions for any tank liner, you should get a good, permanent result. Cheers, Terry.

PetesPonies · « **Reply #37 on:** April 24, 2017, 04:59:35 PM »

Terry, zero fails with Master Series. It's a much better product.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #38 on:** April 24, 2017, 05:15:45 PM »

Quote from: PetesPonies on April 24, 2017, 04:59:35 PM

Terry, zero fails with Master Series. It's a much better product.

Thanks mate, it sounds great, if I can find it here I'll give it a try.

PetesPonies · « **Reply #39 on:** April 24, 2017, 05:20:22 PM »

My guess would be you cannot. However, I don't know that for sure. Just add it to your next shipment from the US.

BomberMann650 · « **Reply #40 on:** April 24, 2017, 07:00:28 PM »

Quote from: slikwilli420 on April 24, 2017, 04:25:05 PM

Shop calls today and said they blew my tank apart and it's destroyed. I'm literally at a loss for all words.

Pressure test gone out of hand?

slikwilli420 · « **Reply #41 on:** April 24, 2017, 07:06:29 PM »

Guy said he poured acid in to get more rust out and it exploded. It doesn't add up to me. I'll know more when I get to the shop tomorrow.

eigenvector · « **Reply #42 on:** April 24, 2017, 07:32:10 PM »

"Hey man I don't know what happened. We filled the tank with nitroglycerin to get the rest of the rust out - and when we set it down on the work bench it just exploded. I just don't understand what happened man."

Smudgemo · « **Reply #43 on:** April 24, 2017, 07:55:15 PM »

One day just for the hell of it I'm going to get my hands on a rusty tank and try brazing up the holes with the bronze I use for making bicycle frames. After soaking it, of course. I keep thinking I could fix rust holes, but maybe I'm full of crap.

slikwilli420 · « **Reply #44 on:** April 25, 2017, 06:13:25 AM »

So this happened this morning...

I am at a total loss for words. Its totally destroyed and while not beyond repair, it would cost far more than the effort is worth. I do have a backup tank (in background) that I will have to try and figure out myself.

They claim some gas vapors were hidden in the rust and it exploded. He also mentioned he had not checked to see if the vent was working properly. This tank has been stripped and soaked more than once with non-flammable products and I just don't see any way on God's green earth what he is telling me is the truth.

Im going to give the other tank a soak in Evaporust and then go from there.

slikwilli420 · « **Reply #45 on:** April 25, 2017, 06:47:22 AM »

He claimed when he put flame to the area he was working on that's when it ballooned up. Thing is, about 90% of the work was already done. He was just finishing up, which mean he has a torch on just about every other square inch of the bottom of that tank with no issues.

It was a nice SS tank (minus the rust holes), but now its a modern art masterpiece. I can't even chalk up to the Gods of Speed since it never even had a chance to be used on a running bike.

PetesPonies · « **Reply #46 on:** April 25, 2017, 06:49:16 AM »

Its really not that difficult. I wish someone here would do as I suggest, come back and tell everyone how well it worked. Then there wouldn't be such worry and such destruction. A rusted tank, start by pouring in phosphoric acid. Leave it in a couple days. You can get it at the big box stores. It is not expensive. After that, pour it out and blow air inside the tank until it is dry. Let it sit for a couple days, airing it every so often. Then pour maser Series silver in the tank. Turn the tank from side to side. Let it sit on each side no longer than an hour. Once you have coats all the tank, or all sides you want coated, pour out the rest. The next day, you are as good as gold.

slikwilli420 · « **Reply #47 on:** April 25, 2017, 07:00:01 AM »

Pete, you sound like you are ready to take the Pepsi challenge on this stuff.

I don't want to got the acid route, but will use Evaporust which I have had really good success with. Will that still work?

You willing to send a quart my way gratis? If it does as you say, I will sing from a mountain top.

Stev-o · « **Reply #48 on:** April 25, 2017, 07:00:08 AM »

I'm surprised we have not heard of this product before...

http://masterseriesct.com/

drumstyx · « **Reply #49 on:** April 25, 2017, 07:00:34 AM »

...that sort of thing doesn't just happen...I think they might owe you a tank...

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Author Topic: Gas tank rust - how many pin holes is too many? Tank shop grenaded my tank (Read 9265 times)