Topic: front wheel skipping

[evinrude7]

noticing on a curve at 45 mph that the front wheel feels like it's skipping a bit.  it's not super dramatic but it's noticeable.  what is that an indication of?  note: there is no knocking in the steering and the bars turn smoothly.  it's only on a curve.  could this be an indication that the front shocks are past their prime?

[BomberMann650]

Hows the front tire lookin?  Good head bearings and a serviced/working suspension is no match for a farked up tire.

Also, brake drag.  Check for that.

[evinrude7]

no brake drag.  tire could use replacing.  slightly < 50% tread left.  pretty sure it's out of balance to some extent. 

[Bankerdanny]

Could be balance, could be slightly out of round. Put it on the center stand and use a jack to support front so that the wheel is off the ground. Give the wheel a spin and watch to see if the tire appears to rise at some point. If you have a front fender it should be visible as a slight closing of the gap between the tire and the fender.

[evinrude7]

good idea danny.  i'll get a look after the kids go to bed. 

[evinrude7]

Hows the front tire lookin?  Good head bearings and a serviced/working suspension is no match for a farked up tire.

Also, brake drag.  Check for that.

i'll be damned.  it is brake drag.  you nailed it bomber. 

[evinrude7]

caliper was stuck. rust in it.  flushed it out.  compressed piston w/clamp.  plenty of space.  then i bled the system and it's back.  caliper or mc won't allow pad to sink back down.  any idears?

[BomberMann650]

Hows the front tire lookin?  Good head bearings and a serviced/working suspension is no match for a farked up tire.

Also, brake drag.  Check for that.

i'll be damned.  it is brake drag.  you nailed it bomber.

Huzzah!

Any luck on the caliper?  Did you end up stuck at full lock or just draggin again?
When in doubt, clean it out!

[evinrude7]

Just drag. I'm going to try clearing return hole in res.

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[DaveBarbier]

caliper was stuck. rust in it.  flushed it out.  compressed piston w/clamp.  plenty of space.  then i bled the system and it's back.  caliper or mc won't allow pad to sink back down.  any idears?

Sink back down? Do you mean the pad won't fit back in the caliper? You mean the pad won't retract when you let off the lever? At this point I would remove the caliper piston and seal and clean thoroughly. Get that groove as clean as possible; I use a dremel with a brass wire wheel. Steel will chew up the aluminum. Use a small dental mirror to be sure the underside of the groove is spotless too. Then get a new seal and reinstall. If your piston is pitted, get a new one. I like the phenolic ones that member Godffery offers. Won't ever corrode.

The piston seal is one of the main parts that retracts the piston after you release the lever.

[evinrude7]

caliper was stuck. rust in it.  flushed it out.  compressed piston w/clamp.  plenty of space.  then i bled the system and it's back.  caliper or mc won't allow pad to sink back down.  any idears?

Sink back down? Do you mean the pad won't fit back in the caliper? You mean the pad won't retract when you let off the lever? At this point I would remove the caliper piston and seal and clean thoroughly. Get that groove as clean as possible; I use a dremel with a brass wire wheel. Steel will chew up the aluminum. Use a small dental mirror to be sure the underside of the groove is spotless too. Then get a new seal and reinstall. If your piston is pitted, get a new one. I like the phenolic ones that member Godffery offers. Won't ever corrode.

The piston seal is one of the main parts that retracts the piston after you release the lever.

pad won't retract when let off lever.  piston won't go down all the way without a c-clamp to compress it.  did this when disconnected from the brake line.  pad moves free on it's own.  i'll look into the piston and seal as well as fluid return hole in res.  no leaks to speak of.  recommendations on seal resource?   

[Stev-o]

The pad really does not retract much back into the caliper. It's a very basic system, take it apart and give it a good cleaning - especially the groove. A new seal is recommended and only about $6.
Would be a good time for a coat of caliper paint, if you are into that.

[DaveBarbier]

The piston is probably heavily corroded.

I usually type 'Honda' then the part number into eBay. Many parts distributors like 4into1 and Partzilla sell on eBay as well as their website. I'd definitely get an OEM seal.

Regarding assembly, read through and follow this post by member TwoTired. Doing this will ensure years of a trouble free caliper.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,104349.msg1215995.html#msg1215995

[PeWe]

Good post. I wish I had found it before I used silicone grease on the seal.
Yes, it did not work well. Huge leak passed the piston and impregnated the pad on rotor really soon after the job. Opened again. Cleaned everything inside and piston with acetone. New seal. Flushed extra with brake fluid.

[Bankerdanny]

I picked up a bottle of brake assembly lube a few years ago when I installed new seals on my GL1000 calipers. It only takes a small amount so the bottle will probably last me the rest of my life.

[evinrude7]

The pad really does not retract much back into the caliper. It's a very basic system, take it apart and give it a good cleaning - especially the groove. A new seal is recommended and only about $6.
Would be a good time for a coat of caliper paint, if you are into that.

i am into the caliper paint.  semi gloss or satin? 

all great replies and i'm thankful for the help.  i know i post a bunch and it's probably really annoying but i really dig this hobby since i hung up my musical hat and needed something to keep my mind occupied. 

[DaveBarbier]

I think semi gloss is closer to OEM. No worries about the posts. The more posts, the more info people have to search for in the future.

[Smudgemo]

I got some actual caliper paint from O'Reilly's that is a semi-gloss, I believe.  My bike came with a repo piston side so I only painted the static side and I think it looks pretty good.

[evinrude7]

looks right

[RAFster122s]

VHT can be baked in the oven for a more durable finish. Worth considering if you are going with painted calipers.
Glad you are getting it sorted. Could be a bit of issues with the MC as well. It could use a good cleaning, or possible just swap it out with one of the repo MCs that DSS in US site sells for less than $60 last I looked.

[evinrude7]

DSS?

[Smudgemo]

David Silver Spares
https://www.davidsilverspares.com/

[Stev-o]

DSS?

David Silvers Spares, sells nearly every part for your bike, OEM and aftermarket.  Their master cylinder is a bargain...

https://www.davidsilverspares.com/CB750K2-FOUR-1972/part_123912/


I used VHT Satin Black carliper paint on caliper.....

[evinrude7]

David Silver Spares
https://www.davidsilverspares.com/

DSS?

David Silvers Spares, sells nearly every part for your bike, OEM and aftermarket.  Their master cylinder is a bargain...

https://www.davidsilverspares.com/CB750K2-FOUR-1972/part_123912/


I used VHT Satin Black carliper paint on caliper.....

gotcha.  i believe i ordered some parts from them for my cb200T about 15 years ago.  site has changed. 

hey there's a set screw on the pad of the piston side.  where should that be set?  also when i spin the wheel i know there should be a slight rub of the pad but how much is okay?  does anyone have their's completely free of any pad rub?