Topic: Testing for oil flow to the top end

[eigenvector]

What's a good QUICK way to test for oil flow to the top end of the engine?

I'm sure there are ways to do it that involve pressure gauges, disassembling the head, etc - but for a newly rebuilt engine is there a reasonably quick way to check for proper flow?

I was thinking - I'll just remove one of the valve cover caps and if oil starts flowing out of it... "Wellll'p  obviously there's oil flow to the top end."

I had to do a really intense cleaning of the oil pickup screen and then had to scour the spooge that accumulates in the crevices of the oil pan on an engine.  Question is - did I get all the crap that accumulated in the internal pipes (I felt reasonably certain I did) but at the same time short of installing a pressure gauge there's really no way to test for proper oil flow in a running engine.  The oil pressure gauge is at the BOTTOM of the engine - not the top where it's probably really needed.

[seanbarney41]

What bike?

[eigenvector]

Specifically it's for the 84 Nighthawk, but I can see this being used elsewhere - on the 550, the 750 DOHC or the Sabre.  Anywhere where you have an unknown engine with a fair number of miles and just want to be sure it's doing what it's supposed to be doing.

Of course this can get out of hand quickly - testing to see if your tester is testing the tester properly and so on and so forth.  That's why I was thinking just removing a cam cover bolt would at least demonstrate oil was present.

Plenty of people here have rebuilt their engines (I raise my hand) - how many have confirmed the internal plumbing works as intended?  I have to admit I take it upon faith.

[seanbarney41]

I don't know of any general test that works on any engine.  All engines have different designs and oil passages and problem areas.

On an sohc cb750 I will loosen a tappet cover, start the engine, and peek in...if no oil splashes out I got problems.  But this is not necesarrily a valid test for any other engine.  Some engines get too much oil in the topend and it cannot drain back to the pan fast enough thus starving main and rod bearings.

[strynboen]

[eigenvector]

That's about right - turn the crank and oil should weep.

It is actually what I did after rebuilding my 550, I recall one of the oil passage valves was plugged.
On the 750 (and probably 900 and 1100) DOHC you get the same thing - turn the crank and oil will just gush.  It's a real problem when doing the valve clearances - every time you rotate the crank oil goes all over the exhaust headers because of the engine tilt.

I suppose then the best method would be to remove the cam cover and turn the crank a few times.  Oil should seep out.  I don't know if an oil pump changes that equation though.

[kmb69]

Pull the plugs. Pull the valve cover. Spin it over with the electric starter for a minute or so.
Any motor should be showing oil on all the cam journals. If all journals are wet, should be good to go!
Kinda generic, but that's how I check it.