Topic: K0 1969 Build...progress

[danyo]

Fork lowers are from later model k1, k2. Anyway very nice bike.

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

[Thunder]

Heya

I'm confused??

Sgt you say they are the wrong sliders?
But they look identical to others i have seen on K0's?

AFAIK THere are 2x fork lower types, i have both , but i was sure these were correct?
The look to be the same as those you posted a link to?

ANy help apprectiated

The double cut , yeah i know, it will come,...in time

[754]

 Its all in the lip under the fattest part of the fork lower where the seal sits.

[Thunder]

AHH, i see it now

The taper is incorrect...

Thanks for the advice guys!

Ok, another thing to correct in time.
I will leave it as is  for now as i havnt even fired her up yet,and will need to see what rears it's head.

Thanks
Thor

[HondaMan]

So still to go...

I need to find the switchgear i refurbished...
Electrickery to be done
fire it up ... hopefully
chase down oil leaks.
ride


oh, picked this up as well, only been chasing one of these for many years but they have always gone for way outta my budget,but this was a lucky find



carb 3 is blocked and to get the carbs out is a bit more difficult than the cb

will update

Thor

Okay, now I've gone from 'very interested' to 'jealous'...
I just got to rebuild an engine from one of these, came from Ukraine to here, left the shop with my drool still trying to dry on it...

[Thunder]

Hi Mark!
Got your book btw, a fantastic buy

As for the X, i have had one on the "mind list"  for about forever.The photos of course lie , and shie needs a total overhaul/restore, but everything is there which is most NB for me
(less parts needed which is a killer with the weakness of our currency)

[Thunder]

Questions before startup...

Carbs are in, but whilst putting them in , i could put a finger in by the airbox section and feel the slides.
They feel even....

Is there anything i need to do before fireing it up other than adjusting the brass adjusters?

I have put oil in the tank, do i kick it "off" until i see the level suddenly drop, meaning it has circulated?

Anything else to bear in mind?

Is been a long time since i did one of these and i have never taken the engine apart to the extent i did this one so any help/advice is taken?

If it runs, how qickly shoudl i dump the first oil.? 100km?10km?

Thanks
Thor

[BPellerine]

I would remove a couple valve adj caps and turn it over until you can see oil getting to the top end.sync the carbs once you get it to run.bill

[HondaMan]

I usually remove the sparkplugs, then use the electric starter to spin up the oil PSI until the light goes out. Do this in short bursts, like 7-10 seconds max, so you don't burn up the starter enroute.

If you have an electric heater, first set it by the oil lines and oil tank (remove the side cover of the bike so it can heat the whole oil tank) to make the oil more likely to push the bubbles out of the oil pump. I heat them up for about an hour to 90 minutes first, before even trying: it works out MUCH faster. Once the oil light goes out (and the starter isn't hot), follow Bill's instructions, above, to make sure the top is wet, too.

[Thunder]

VERY useful tips guys

Thanks alot
will be doing it shortly (as soon as i find the set of misplaced switchgear. which i put somewhere clever for safekeeping..lol)


Thor

[754]

Re you fork legs they are 71,72 . Not sure but might be able to fake hem on the lathe.
Another source is 1970 450 legs, the lower is the same, the fork tubes are abit shorter and springs may be weaker.

[01Thomas]

Hi
You said you were looking for original sidecover badges? I have one each in gold and black, but don't ask me if they're left or right. The gold one will be correct for your bike. They're in Durban and I work in Germany now, so let me know if you're interested but you'll have to wait until about August when I get back for my annual fill of potjiekos.

[Terry in Australia]

Hey Thor, sorry I haven't commented earlier, I didn't realise you were doing a build thread! Nice job mate, well done! I think I've got a spare set of K0 fork lowers if you can't find any? Has yours got the correct K0 hubs and K0 disc mate? Yep, they are different from the later bikes, I think I can help you out with a front disc too, and a two hole K0 rear hub. (sorry, I don't have a spare front hub)  Cheers, Terry.

[Thunder]

Heya

@754  Yeah, when i go the route of getting her 100% i will def be looking for the fork lowers.
ATM to be honest i will be happy just to get her on the road with no oil leaks or engine problems (earlier in thread ) i did a repair on the front sprocket area and am not 100% it is going to seal.

@thomas, yeah please, if you have a yellow one you wll be willing to sell, please give me a shout when you are back and doing a poikie kos

@ TERRY!!!! Hiya mate.

I don't know!!!
If memory serves the front hub is 5mm narrower? yes?
The wheel sits more to one side?
I have a slight difference in gappage on the front forks but it might have been my lacing.

Front disk different ?
How?
2 hole rear hub at a later stage.

As i see it these are things i can replace if and when they come along , but nothing to stop her being on the road, which is most NB at this moment as i want to get some 2 stroke in the gas and coating the hm300's as they are thinish after the rechrome.
Finally, she's a diecast, so i hope a bit of slack in 100% restoration.It will get there eventually.

Also funds are a bit kak at the moment, as i splurged on an exhaust system for the X, and it hurt
and she has a leaking head
and 67000km...so pistons might be nessesary

and theres another goldwing on the bench...

fun times

I suppose it keeps me from affording the pub at least

Thor

[01Thomas]

Give me a reminder early in August. They're both Brand new, one still in the original packaging

[Terry in Australia]

G'Day Thor, no worries, the K0 hub is slightly narrower (5mm sounds right) between the spoke bosses, but the brake disc mounting flange is around 5mm wider than the later hubs. (see pic below) I don't think there's any offset, but someone more knowledgeable might be able to educate us both?

The front disc is different, instead of the carrier being tapered like the later discs, the K0 disc has a pronounced square edge on the boss that is riveted to the disc rotor. I don't have a pic, but if I get time I'll take one today. No problem money-wise, I think you had some K0 parts left over that you were willing to trade? Anyway, we can talk offline about that. Have a good one mate, and if you want a laugh, check out my K0 resto thread! Cheers, Terry.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,165263.msg1910584.html#msg1910584

[Sgt.Pinback]

KO hub is wider, not narrower.

[Terry in Australia]

Yep, but narrower between the spoke flanges.

[Sgt.Pinback]

Ahh, did´nt knew that.

[HondaMan]

G'Day Thor, no worries, the K0 hub is slightly narrower (5mm sounds right) between the spoke bosses, but the brake disc mounting flange is around 5mm wider than the later hubs. (see pic below) I don't think there's any offset, but someone more knowledgeable might be able to educate us both?

The front disc is different, instead of the carrier being tapered like the later discs, the K0 disc has a pronounced square edge on the boss that is riveted to the disc rotor. I don't have a pic, but if I get time I'll take one today. No problem money-wise, I think you had some K0 parts left over that you were willing to trade? Anyway, we can talk offline about that. Have a good one mate, and if you want a laugh, check out my K0 resto thread! Cheers, Terry.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,165263.msg1910584.html#msg1910584

This hub spokes up with NO wheel offset: it should have the wheel rim dead-centered between the fork legs.
The offset hubs have the machined surface for the disc on both sides. Those were set up (on the K1-K6) to have 3.5mm offset toward the disc, to allow clearance for a second caliper to be hung on the other leg if one wished dual-discs for racing.

BTW: this offset adds an undesireable handling tendency to those bikes with it: when rolling gently down a hill around 20-40 MPH and releasing the handlebars, the head will shake. To stop this silliness, you can readjust the offset to 0 and it will largely go away. This should not be confused with headshake brought on by poor swingarm bushings and/or chain snatch from uneven chains: those can cause headshake, too.