Topic: How can I get these brakes to stop better? ('75 750K)

[scottly]

In the era these bike were introduced, a disk brake that was sensitive was considered dangerous, as locking up the front wheel was not welcome, particularly in corners.
I think Honda made them the way they were as safety notion, as it is better to stay upright during hazard avoidance than slide on the foot pegs.

Lloyd, it appears Honda made allowances for adding a second brake from the very beginning, given the mirrored caliper mounts on the right fork leg. Have you ever ridden a bike with a dual disc conversion using stock parts? Hundreds, if not thousands were done back in the '70s. BTW, welcome back.

[TwoTired]

Lloyd, it appears Honda made allowances for adding a second brake from the very beginning, given the mirrored caliper mounts on the right fork leg. Have you ever ridden a bike with a dual disc conversion using stock parts? Hundreds, if not thousands were done back in the '70s. BTW, welcome back.

I agree, I think the engineers made dual disk possible from the outset.   Economics and safety minded legal staff, likely nixed a production possibility.

Yes, I've ridden dual disk modified bikes as well as 77 and 78 750 Fs that had dual disks.  Nothing as touchy as a some modern bikes brake levers, though.  They do modulate well once the traits are learned.  That braking power is nice to have when you are perfectly upright.  Not so much if you are doing a turning hazard avoidance maneuver.

Thanks for the welcome.

Cheers,

[PeWe]

Welcome back TwoTired!!!
Your very interesting technical descriptions and discussions have been missing on these forums. Your charging problem threads are linked many times.

[Jayelwin]

It is dangerous to get used with another bike that have working brakes. CB750 must be ridden different, do not brake, see the openings and twist the throttle. Use gear box a lot and do not ride exact behind your buddies, must be displaced sideways.

I'm finding exactly this. I even feel it's dangerous going the other way. I ride the vintage honda all day, then I get on the beemer and SLAM, it brakes so hard I feel like I'm going to be thrown. Then I ride the beemer all day and I feel like I'm going to rear end things on the honda. I really have to keep my wits about me.

[becken]

Welcome back TwoTired!!!
Your very interesting technical descriptions and discussions have been missing on these forums. Your charging problem threads are linked many times.

A big +1!!! You have really been missed.

[Don R]

 Be sure your single brake is optimal. Check the pad contact, adjust or shim if needed, if it's glazed sand the shine off. If it's spongey, new hoses can help that. Scotchbrite the rotor with a gasket disc. remove fingerprints or fluids with brake clean.
 That said, I'm a big fan of dual discs too. I ruined a front tire on my double disc 76F practicing stops with dual stock calipers and original master cylinder. I put Ferodo pads on my 79 wing and it was impressive in an 80-0 practice stop. I plan to double disc my K0 due to excessive horsepower. lol.

[Jayelwin]

Be sure your single brake is optimal. Check the pad contact, adjust or shim if needed, if it's glazed sand the shine off. If it's spongey, new hoses can help that. Scotchbrite the rotor with a gasket disc. remove fingerprints or fluids with brake clean.
 That said, I'm a big fan of dual discs too. I ruined a front tire on my double disc 76F practicing stops with dual stock calipers and original master cylinder. I put Ferodo pads on my 79 wing and it was impressive in an 80-0 practice stop. I plan to double disc my K0 due to excessive horsepower. lol.

My rotor is definitely shiny. I will scotchbrite it. Braided hoses are on the way.


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[scottly]

As per Michael at Vintage Brake, I installed Ferodo organic brake pads, a Galfer one piece brake hose and a 11mm Brembo master cylinder. I still am using the original single disc and am extremely happy with the front brake. The master cylinder has a mirror mount and a brake light switch built in.

The simple swap of the smaller 11mm MC would yield 60% more stopping power, with a single 38mm caliper!! Is the reservoir integral, or is it one of those plastic things that look like an IV drip? What did it cost? Do you have any pictures? Thanks

[becken]

As per Michael at Vintage Brake, I installed Ferodo organic brake pads, a Galfer one piece brake hose and a 11mm Brembo master cylinder. I still am using the original single disc and am extremely happy with the front brake. The master cylinder has a mirror mount and a brake light switch built in.

The simple swap of the smaller 11mm MC would yield 60% more stopping power, with a single 38mm caliper!! Is the reservoir integral, or is it one of those plastic things that look like an IV drip? What did it cost? Do you have any pictures? Thanks

The reservoir is integral and in my opinion looks totally natural on the bike. I had Spiegler steel braided brake lines and they flexed enough to be able to pull the lever to the grip, thus the need for the Galfer brake line. Since the new master cylinder has an integral brake light switch I ordered a one piece brake line and removed the stock brake light switch assembly. I believe the master cylinder was $90 to $100 from vintage brake. I don't have any pictures and the bikes will probably not get uncovered this year due to health problems. Michael at Vintage Brake is wonderful to work with. He works with a lot of vintage class road racers and would have recommended a 10mm master cylinder if I had been racing. I like the lack of weight and lack of complexity with the single disc and am extremely happy with the way it stops now. If you try it I'm sure you will be pleased also.