I feel your pain. Melted a piston and got ready to put in a CR 836 kit. Went to THE machine shop in town. He wanted to bore 20 over the pistons. Nothing else. Went to another shop. Explained what I wanted and wrote it down. Put it together and it leaked and smoked big time. Just like yours. Oil on top of pistons and leaking around exhaust spigots and dripping out of exhaust drains. Took it apart and had the machine shop measure the holes. He had bored it to twenty ANYWAY. I said screw it and sent it to Mike. Only good decision I made. He decked both sides. Put in sleeves and bored to the proper spec. Chamfered the sleeves for easy assembly. New valves and guides so he could install seals on all of them. Beautiful job!
Put it back in and still smoked and leaked. Took it apart and realized I had gapped all three parts of the oil ring not knowing any better. Fixed that and it is running like a champ. Although pipes were full of oil, no smoking after I fixed the rings. As I understand, per Mike and HM, the piston gap is critical and different than most shops think it should be. Something to do with forged vs cast pistons. Pretty sure if I sent my rings to Mike along with the other stuff, I would not have had the problem.
As far as CR, n problems. Asked if rings were marked for up and down. He said no. I also re-ordered single ring sets three times because I kept breaking them. He even put one set together for me. Good luck going forward. Re-measure everything.
Thanks for sharing your experience, sure sounds like what I'm going through.
I had my piston-to-bore clearance done at .0008", definitely 'tight' by most standards.
The machinist raised his eyebrows and questioned my request, but I was sure and he basically said hey man, not what I recommend but it's your engine. He measured it after the work was done, And I took it to an independent machinist to double check. The assembly spec is .0004-.0012, and the wear max is way past that. Mine were bored and honed to .0008", with a slight hourglass shape at .001", so still within spec.
I confirmed my rings were in right side up (all three had 'top' markings), and I didn't need to file them as the gap was just over the minimum spec, other than the compression ring in #3 which needed a tiny pass with a file.
I requested the new guides be set to the clearance in my manual, I think it was .0006 if I remember correctly. Maybe .0004, I'd have to check my notes.
So all the stuff you're talking about having to re-do, I've re-done as well. I don't like hearing that your bike stopped smoking with the old oily exhaust though, I don't understand how that could happen. My machinist reminded me to be aware that I'd get some smoke coming from old oil when I picked up the head too.
I won't be taking this engine apart again this year. I think it's premature to open stuff up again, especially when I KNOW it's all measured within spec, after only one 5 minute ride. There's snow on the ground but first chance I get I'm going to throw a quart of oil in my backpack and ride the piss out of this bike till it either stops smoking or I run out of oil. Then I'll make a call on opening it up, or buckling down and finding a 400F engine.....