Topic: JB Weld and powder coating..

[Johnny340]

I have this GSXR top triple clamp that I'm using on my CB750 and I want to have a bung on the bottom side to attach the gauge bracket  to.  I tried welding it and it turned out horrible and cold welded.  Same with a professional Tig. (crazy 'metal') So it's in position on the underside of the clamp which I plan to powdercoat black and wondered if JB weld was able to handle 400° in the oven or should I powdercoat it first then JB weld it in place over the powdercoat?

[slikwilli420]

Powderman will be along here I'm sure, but I have been told that as long as you are using the original JB weld formula (not the quick set stuff) then it will be fine.

On the other hand, the fact someone wasn't able to weld that properly is a little disturbing since this is average cast aluminum and should be easily weldable.

[Lostboy Steve]

Powderman will be along here I'm sure, but I have been told that as long as you are using the original JB weld formula (not the quick set stuff) then it will be fine.

On the other hand, the fact someone wasn't able to weld that properly is a little disturbing since this is average cast aluminum and should be easily weldable.

Yes the original jb works. Labmetal is better though.


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[innovativems]

I've had good results with jb weld


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[Johnny340]

So the original JB Weld and Lab Metal has worked as in, you powdercoated on top of it and baked it at 400°? 

I looked them up and apparently JBweld is good up to 550° and regular LabMetal 350° plus onetime exposures to 425ºF for no longer than 20 minutes, after they are fully cured.  I'm thinking JBWeld first, shape if required, then powdercoat, is the way to go.  Thank you for the replies.

[innovativems]

I use it as a filler on a swingarm and it worked fine when I had my powdercoat do it. Not sure what temp they bake it at.  I think 400


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[Lostboy Steve]

So the original JB Weld and Lab Metal has worked as in, you powdercoated on top of it and baked it at 400°? 

I looked them up and apparently JBweld is good up to 550° and regular LabMetal 350° plus onetime exposures to 425ºF for no longer than 20 minutes, after they are fully cured.  I'm thinking JBWeld first, shape if required, then powdercoat, is the way to go.  Thank you for the replies.

No. I personally have not. I have used jb weld for aluminum repairs under powder and baked at 400. I have been told by professional powdercoaters that labmetal is better and that yes it is used prior to coating and baked at 400 degrees.


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[PetesPonies]

There isn't anything that can't be TIG welded.

[Dracon]

I've read that powder coating over JB Weld in very small areas is OK, but what about larger areas? I was thinking about smoothing out the transitions of where the welds meet the frame before having it powder coated. Even though it's not thick, with being a longer section would it still powdercoat OK?

Thanks

[PetesPonies]

As an ex teacher who taught welding, I disagree. If you can make a rod of the metal to be weld, you can weld it. I melted down zinc based metals to make rods to fix the "potmetal" pieces.

[Lostboy Steve]

I've read that powder coating over JB Weld in very small areas is OK, but what about larger areas? I was thinking about smoothing out the transitions of where the welds meet the frame before having it powder coated. Even though it's not thick, with being a longer section would it still powdercoat OK?

Thanks

I don't know, that's asking for trouble later. I would much rather braze those areas and grind smooth.


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[PetesPonies]

I wouldn't braze either. That is asking for problems down the road. Flux used in brazing leaches out and causes paint problems. If you want a smooth frame, use polyester filler.

[Lostboy Steve]

I wouldn't braze either. That is asking for problems down the road. Flux used in brazing leaches out and causes paint problems. If you want a smooth frame, use polyester filler.

Polyester filler under powdercoat?


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[PetesPonies]

No, no under powder coat, forgot about that. I would paint the frame with urethane. They hold up great, no need for powder coating.

[innovativems]

There are some fillers designed for under powdercoat.  One downfall of using jb weld as a filler is its very hard to sand.  If you want to fill the welds I also say fill it and then paint it.


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[Dracon]

Thanks for the suggestions and information!

So as a self proclaimed noob, I was under the impression that powercoating the frame was the "best" way to get a durable/worry free frame. Though I have been reading that touch-up is difficult if something chips. What are your thoughts? Does the ease of touching up a painted frame make it a better solution for a bike that will be ridden often?

I'll admit, saving the money on PC'ing the frame, swingarm, forks, foot pegs, etc. is appealing...

[PetesPonies]

Thanks for the suggestions and information!

So as a self proclaimed noob, I was under the impression that powercoating the frame was the "best" way to get a durable/worry free frame. Though I have been reading that touch-up is difficult if something chips. What are your thoughts? Does the ease of touching up a painted frame make it a better solution for a bike that will be ridden often?

I'll admit, saving the money on PC'ing the frame, swingarm, forks, foot pegs, etc. is appealing...

A good paint job will hold up fine. Urethane is the material to specify, not enamel or acrylic enamel. Have the frame primed with epoxy, followed by the urethane. You re welcome to ask me anything about it, whether you want to do it or have it done.