Topic: Bare fame... no paint?

[memphis3724]

I'm not sure yet what I'm going to do with the frame but am wondering if it is possible to remove all the paint pollish it and clear coat or do something to it so it doesnt rust?  In other words how can I get a nice shine and be able to maintain it without having it chromed?

[USN20]

There was a thread about this not too long ago:

http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php?topic=15977.msg162413#msg162413

[cafe75-550]

I did it on my frame, polished it and then clearcoated with VHT clear. I will say that since the surface is polished its a little harder to get the paint to adhere (runs easier) and that if the clear gets damaged you can get some rust/corrosion, I've picked up a couple little spots in the last year...Just make sure you prep well, cleaning with acetone etc. for better adhesion. Aluminum shouldn't be too different....

Yes, its possible!  Thats my frame above (from the other thread). There's more info in the linked thread, but if you need any info about any steps in the process I'd be more than happy to help. The polishing part is definitely time consuming! 

[memphis3724]

Thanks guys!  This info was exactly what I was looking for, a 'Yes' with options  .  What's the fastest easiest way to strip the frame?

[cafe75-550]

I used paint stripper, available from most auto parts stores ("aircraft stripper"). Getting rid of the paint is the easy part. If you've got rust (and I imagine you do) you'll need to either sand it or use a wire wheel. I personally used a wire wheel mounted to a drill, then moved to progressively finer 3M pads (also using the drill) to create the shine...

[memphis3724]

Thanks again.

[KB02]

You could also get it sand blasted, but then you'll have a little bit more pollishing to do.

[cafe75-550]

If you could find a place to do the blasting with walnut shells that would be a lot less abrasive, but should still take care of the rust, if you really wanted to blast...

[eurban]

I personally have not had very good luck with clear coating bare shiny steel parts.  I have used a range of spray type clear coats but the parts begin to show rust fairly quickly if exposed to any significant moisture.  The parts were pretty much rust free when sprayed but the clears just don't seem to be up to the task of protecting steel from the elements.  I did not try the VHT like cafe75 did so hopefully this product will work better than the ones I tried.  Eastwood's Diamond Coat is purpose made for coating bare metal but it didn't protect well on steel.  It has worked well when I have used it on some satin finished aluminum parts however.  I just wanted to caution you here that if you are going to put a huge amount of effort into shining up steel parts that you should at least consider that clear coating  may not be a particular long lasting / maintenance free type coating.  If you really want this look you might also consider a clear powdercoating. 

[Hockers Choppers]

I personally have not had very good luck with clear coating bare shiny steel parts.  I have used a range of spray type clear coats but the parts begin to show rust fairly quickly if exposed to any significant moisture.  The parts were pretty much rust free when sprayed but the clears just don't seem to be up to the task of protecting steel from the elements.  I did not try the VHT like cafe75 did so hopefully this product will work better than the ones I tried.  Eastwood's Diamond Coat is purpose made for coating bare metal but it didn't protect well on steel.  It has worked well when I have used it on some satin finished aluminum parts however.  I just wanted to caution you here that if you are going to put a huge amount of effort into shining up steel parts that you should at least consider that clear coating  may not be a particular long lasting / maintenance free type coating.  If you really want this look you might also consider a clear powdercoating. 

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I agree with the powder coating. I've seen some race gokarts with this on the frame. Phantom racing did this on some of their karts. They didn't polish them but clear powdered the frames, looks cool. I don't know how long it will last. Should be ok. How much would it cost to get it chromed after you had it all polished? I wouldn't think it would be much more since all the hard work is done?

[cafe75-550]

No point in polishing if you're going to chrome it, the finish would be plated over. Plus, the cost in chrome plating is primarily the plating process itself and its associated hazardous material disposal fees...

I've had my frame polished and clear coated for almost a year now...I've only got a couple of rust spots, both under the tank and less than the size of a pencil eraser, both cleaned up easy, after which I touched up the paint. No problems anywhere else so far. It might not be maintenance free, but its definitely manageable. A clear powder coat would be pretty cool (I haven't seen one available myself), but a little pricey...though it should last as long as a regular powder coat I would think

[paulages]

i'm certainly no expert, but as i've had it explained to me at my local metal plater, the finish before plating is very important, much like the prep process in painting. plating is very thin compared to powdercoating, and imperfections show very easily. i've been told the exact opposite---that most of what you pay for in chrome plating is in the preparation and polishing.

this from a chrome plating FAQ:

"The steps for tank plating of Chrome over steel, pot metal, zinc diecast or other metals is very similar to the tank plating of any common metal other then aluminum. Like any plating, most of the work is in the preparation. Preparation for plating is very similar to preparation for painting. The end results can only be as good as the finish on the piece before you start plating it. Sand, buff or polish the piece to get a good surface finish. Make sure you have removed all of the paint on the area that you want to plate."

i've been pricing having my new project frame plated instead of powdercoated, and i've been sent all over the place trying to find someone that will deal with it, due to complications in the process, such as adequate venting of any closed tubing that may trap hydrochloric acid during the cleaning process when the metal becomes particularly porous, which can cause serious corrosion problems from the inside out.  there are powdercoats out there with metal flake in them, which can be clearcoated to give a metallic look.

in any case-- much like you, bryan, i want to make damn sure i have all welds finalized before doing anything permanent.

[cafe75-550]

Hmmm. I think I may have been misunderstood. I didn't mean to say the the finish was unimportant, just that actually polishing it would be unnecessary (there's still a difference between a perfectly pristine bare metal tube and a polished one...though polishing the former would be a lot easier  ...). Most of the items I've seen chromed (old Brit car pieces like bumpers and such) have to be clean, bare metal for sure, and the chrome-rs that I've seen are definitely masters at straightening a surface, but at least here in Cali I know that a fair chunk of the rising cost for chrome is in haz mat fees...

On the other hand, my experience has been completely in stuff that needs re-chroming, and not chroming things that haven't been already, so I may have gotten ahead of myself. 

Needless to say, I have to agree that plating, chroming, and even powder coating are things to be done once you've finished with a part, and I'm certainly not that.

Paul- so if I understand you correctly you need to vent all the closed spaces before plating? If so I'm out on that option ( not that I'm not happy with my clearcoat), since I actually completed all the welds on my frame (around all of the pressed pieces and the spot welded down tubes...)

[paulages]

as i had it explained to me, when the part is dipped in hydrochloric acid for cleaning, a vacuum is created inside the tubing, sucking the acid (or vapors, maybe?) into any porous areas, particularly the welds. without proper venting, this is a recipe for quick corrosion. the guy i talked to (at a place that does extremely high-volume plating---dental industry parts, etc.) said that typically a frame manufacturer that chromes, say Specialized bicycles for example, would provide venting in the tubing, so that when it comes out of the tank, you see fluid shooting out of the holes. he seemed to think that it is a liability without, and that many platers are wary of dealing with it otherwise. i think i found someone here. in any case, i'm sure you or the plater could vent it yourself, even if you've already closed off all the welds.

[cafe75-550]

Yeah, but then of course you're left with the vent holes...

I'm actually very happy with the clearcoat so far. My bike is garage kept and I have no need to be riding it in foul weather so its not much of an issue. Good stuff to know though!

[paulages]

again...i'm no expert, but it seems like if you hid them, they wouldn't matter. proper cleaning should insure that it is plated inside and out, in which case internal rust should not be an issue. anyway, i'll report back when i have more conclusive info from my plater...