Topic: How bad did i just screw up?

[dunk8811]

so i was just attempting to replace me shifter oil seal. per a thread i had read, i drilled a small hole in the old seal and screwed in a small screw to have something to grab ahold of and pull the old seal out. i was sure i had enough clearance when i was turning the screw into the seal, but it turns out, i did not...





how bad did i mess up? it looks like the marks are going to be inside of where the seal sits. is there anything i can do to the shaft before i put in the new seal to make it not leak permanently?

[Scott S]

 Not sure about your question, but take that dang sprocket off and give yourself some working room!

[Pan1cReaper]

What he said!

Honestly it doesnt look too bad. Mine had some rust pitting. I would try some emery cloth or very fine sand paper to smooth the worst of the scratches out and see what happens.

Oh and put a wrap of electrical tape around the splines to avoid catching the new seal on a burr when you slide it over the end.

[HondaMan]

Like what Reaper said ^^^.
If you can get the peaks sanded down, the rest won't leak much. It only really leaks when the engine is hot, the seal is old, and the bike is leaning deeply on the sidestand, because the oil in the pan is then resting right against this seal.

In a worst-case scenario: you can make a thin brass sleeve (often using the brass tubing found at hobby shops and hardware stores) and slide it over that part, inside the seal's lip. The seal can take up to +0.5mm more diameter and still work fine. Been there, works fine (Honda Twins).

[BomberMann650]

Thats a clever trick hondaman!  Thank you!

[DaveBarbier]

+whatever on removing the chain and sprocket. How can you work like that!?

You could try filling the scratches with epoxy or solder, then with a fine sand paper sand it smooth. But since the scores go parallel with the seal lip and not perpendicular to it, you could be fine.


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[dunk8811]

You could try filling the scratches with epoxy or solder, then with a fine sand paper sand it smooth. But since the scores go parallel with the seal lip and not perpendicular to it, you could be fine.

this is what I was thinking, but if others think it will be OK after a little bit of smoothing over, I will try to run it like that and see how bad it leaks first

[Pan1cReaper]

Epoxy would work if you feel the need just to be sure. I bet after taking the sharp edges down you wont remember its there after a few months.

[TwoTired]

I once filled in a gouge on the shaft with JB weld.  Flushed the surface with acetone, applied JB and then contoured it after cure to match surface of remaining shaft. 
The engine case was also chewed badly.  I think I used permatex to seal that.
Stopped the leak.

I for sure removed the chain and sprocket.

Cheers,

[HondaMan]

I once filled in a gouge on the shaft with JB weld.  Flushed the surface with acetone, applied JB and then contoured it after cure to match surface of remaining shaft. 
The engine case was also chewed badly.  I think I used permatex to seal that.
Stopped the leak.

I for sure removed the chain and sprocket.

Cheers,

+1 on the JB Weld: I've used it to fill in a stone hole in the side of a case, chips on cases, and gouges in shafts where they went thru seals. All worked! The ones in the seals needed smooth sanding, though, to prevent leaks.