Topic: CBR600RR regulator/rectifier

[tlbranth]

I put one of these on my '75 Goldwing and it seems to be working OK. Holds at about 13.4v. I just put a voltmeter on My CB750 and the voltage is all over the place (11 - 15v). Some time back I got a rectifier for the 750 from Oregon MC Parts because mine had bit the dust. I could buy his regulator and that would be the safe thing to do with Dolores getting closer but I kinda like the single unit MOSFET setup. Yes I know for $150 I can get one from OMCparts. But for $40 I can get the CBR model.
So has anyone done this swap on a CB? How'd it work? What voltage did it settle in at?

[scottly]

Terry, isn't the CBR a permanent magnet rotor? If so, it's a different type of regulator. While I suppose it could be made to work with an electromagnet system, I'm not sure if it's the best option. 

[TwoTired]

Scottly is right.  All the CBR wire diagrams I could find show only the stator output wires to the alternator.

You need one that controls alternator output by varying the electromagnetic field strength.

[Don R]

 The GL1000 guys claim an improvement, I'm tempted to do my 78 gl.

[scottly]

13.4 volts is on the low side. Was this at idle? What is the voltage at higher RPMs?

[Bodi]

I think the GL also has a PM alternator. Regulators for these "can work" on a controlled field alternator if you connect the field wire directly to a black wire. This shortens the field and stator coil lives as they were not designed for 100% full power all the time.

[scottly]

Actually, after thinking about it, the heating effect on the field coil wouldn't be that much of an increase. A solid state reg that controls the field current always has some voltage drop, while the stock reg basically connects the black wire directly to the white field wire when demand is high, so using a shunt regulator should improve regulation over the stock mechanical unit, as well as provide full output when demand is high.   

[tlbranth]

I'm confused by comments here. The 750 has a rotating magnet and a stator coil. So does the GL1000 and so, I thought, does the CBR600RR. The RR I got has 3 yellow wires for the stator output, a red for 12v and a green for ground. To my knowledge, none of these bikes have a field coil so output is not adjustable.
Yes, Scottly, 13.4 does seem low. I figure 14.3 or so is about right.
Don R is correct. Lots of Naked Goldwingers have made this swap.

[TwoTired]

The 750 has a rotating magnet and a stator coil.

The 750 has a rotating Steel core, but a fixed field coil to energize that core and make it magnetic, at varying strengths.  The field coil must be powered to have a rotating magnet.
So it has two winding elements when you include the stator coil AND the Field coil.

PM (permanent magnet) alternators, only have a stator winding, as the rotating core is always magnetized.


Edit: change coil to core in last sentence.

[tlbranth]

Hmmmmmm

[tlbranth]

Well I looked at the shop manual and sure enough, there's a field coil. Not exactly sure why you get more out than you put in but apparently you do. Anyhow, I've only had the bike for 47 years. Can't expect me to pick this stuff up overnight. So the RR I mentioned probably won't work. I'll contact Oregon MC.

I looked in the GL1000 shop manual and its alternator has a permanent magnet rotor.

So thanks for cluing me in. Glad I asked.

[Don R]

 Thanks, I was wondering also. I may still do the gl1000 someday.

[scottly]

How much is the Oregon regulator?

[tlbranth]

$54. http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/vregulators.html

[scottly]

That's not a bad price for a plug-and-play adjustable reg, and they do have a good rep.