Topic: Fuel level in float bowl

[tlbranth]

Have you checked the float valve spring pins for movement and equal pressure when depressed?
springs all work. Don't know how to measure equality. They all seem about the same.

[tlbranth]

Here's what I've done so far. I set the #1 float using the 26mm (home made) tool. I used the sawed-off bottle to check fuel level in #1 with gasoline. It was 9mm from the lower portion of the body flange. I re-measured using kerosene and the fuel level was 9mm.
So, using kerosene, I'm going to set the other 3 carbs to 9mm and see how it runs.

[TwoTired]

Have you checked the float valve spring pins for movement and equal pressure when depressed?
springs all work. Don't know how to measure equality. They all seem about the same.

They probably are the same then.

I went back and looked at your set up.    The picture omits any leveling device indicator.  So, just a reminder that leveling is very important if you are not running the sight tubes right up against the bowls.

I observe rather large clear tubes.  Any particular reason for that? 
Then I looked at the fuel supply bottle, and wondered if there was enough volume to fill both the bowls and the large tubing.  The longer the tubing run, the more fluid will be necessary to fill it AND all the bowls equally.

I would use actual gasoline, rather than kerosene.  There is a density difference and the floats won't float at the same level as gasoline.  I'm not sure how much level difference that would make.  I just know the numbers are different.

Have you noticed any unusual spatial anomalies near your test site?  Floating trees or somesuch?  Just joking.      I'm probably watching too much Sci-Fi.

Cheers,

[tlbranth]

I went back and looked at your set up.    The picture omits any leveling device indicator.  So, just a reminder that leveling is very important if you are not running the sight tubes right up against the bowls.I leveled side to side and front to back when using tubes

I observe rather large clear tubes.  Any particular reason for that? It's the tube that fit all the fittings
Then I looked at the fuel supply bottle, and wondered if there was enough volume to fill both the bowls and the large tubing.  The longer the tubing run, the more fluid will be necessary to fill it AND all the bowls equally.Yes,
 the reservior is a bit titchy. I built it originally to balance the carbs. You're right, it's not big enough and I had to keep filling it.

I would use actual gasoline, rather than kerosene.  There is a density difference and the floats won't float at the same level as gasoline.  I'm not sure how much level difference that would make.  I just know the numbers are different.As I noted a couple of posts up, I checked a setting with both fuels and couldn't see a level difference.

Have you noticed any unusual spatial anomalies near your test site?  Floating trees or somesuch?  Just joking.      I'm probably watching too much Sci-Fi.I lived in Milpitas in the 60's when it was actually a pretty nice,
 uncrowded place. Here, I'm on 6 acres of 100ft fir, cedar & maple trees but don't see any floaters

[TwoTired]

I wish I could be of more help.  But, the reported symptoms just don't match what should be happening.

I've run out of ideas.  Sorry!

[TwoTired]

I'd sure like to know how this all gets solved.  Please report back when you figure it out.

Cheers,

[tlbranth]

The 9mm number was a fib. It's about 7mm. So all floats were set using a bottle-bottom. I measured by using a toothpick with a flatted end and pencil marks for the distances. I held the flatted end on the body flange and got all the levels to the 7mm mark.
Put the bike back together. No leaks. So the dimple fix did the job. Fired right up. Took it for a short spin and seemed to run well. I did hear an occasional burble, which to me means running rich. But I'll take it for a longer ride, check the plugs and report back.

[DaveBarbier]

So we have the "clear tube method" and now the "bottle bottom method" haha, love it.


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[tlbranth]

I think the bottle bottom method is way easier to do. Turns out you don't even need to remove the bowl clips with the Kirkland body wash bottle

[jonda500]

I'm impressed with the bottle bottom method - wont have to be so jealous of the bowl clips that only 750's have now and should be more inclined to get around to raising my float bowl levels from 4 to 3mm below the top, a finicky task that I've been kinda dreading and procrastinating about for far too long. Me thinks I'll go the kerosene route too, gotta be less fumes there and less chance of dissolving whichever bottle bottom I can find... Now what I really want to do is make a carb stand to make the chore even easier...(notice I avoid saying "should do" as that is something one says about things that will probably never actually get done!)
Thanks for sharing this experience with us tibranth, I'll be interested to see how the 7mm level goes,
John

[tlbranth]

Went on a 700 mile trip with the above settings. Bike ran very well although I do occasionally hear a bit of a burble (rich). I pulled the plugs and here they are: #2 looks good. #3 and #4 look almost good. #1 is veeeery rich. Sooooooo I pulled the carbs again. Fuel levels are pretty consistent. Actually #1 is a tad lower than the rest. Some time back I sent #4 to the carb welder guy back east. Fixed but expensive when shipping is figured in. I noticed - some time back after that - the main jet column on #1 was cracking. I don't remember how bad it was but not being quite recovered from the expense (mostly shipping) of the #4 fix, I 'fixed' #1 myself. I used a section of 7/16" brass tubing & glued it to the column with Seal-All. I've an idea this fix is letting more fuel up the spout. Not sure what to do next.

[TwoTired]

I'd speculate that the burble you hear is misfires on the carbon coated #1 plug insulator.  Carbon electrical path between center electrode and spark plug body.

I think I'd take apart your fix on the main jet column to see if it is leaking.  Maybe get another carb body, or have yours welded up by Jim F.

Depends on your confidence fixing that crack.

Has the column that's cracked also expanded the fit of the emulsion tube and needle jet?

If the needle jet pocket has cracked or expanded, fuel might get around the that jet orifice.  Worth a check, I think.

Cheers,

[tlbranth]

The brass looks good. The aluminum doesn't seem to move any when the jets are screwed in. The whole thing "looks" tight. I thnk getting the sleeve off would be a bit dicey. I'd have to cut it off with a Dremel. I'll see what I can do to improve the seal. I'll also give the idle circuit a looking at to make sure the air isn't blocked off.
I've looked for another body but can't find one. I don't know what parts from K1+ carbs are interchangeable with K0. I see lots of them for sale but no K0's within reach of a mere mortal.