Topic: Way high RPM after carbs rebuild

[flybox1]

What is the opinion on

Motion Pro 08-0411 Syncpro Carburetor Tuner


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Poor quality...

Go with one of these. 
http://www.saber-cycle.com/store/product735.html
https://www.carbtune.com/

[flybox1]

I have the ones from Saber Cycle.  They are well made and I have successfully used them for years.

[Can550]

Thanks
Things are over the top here in that case

Prices starting over 150$ (Canadian)


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[TwoTired]

I like the gauges.  My set from 1975 is still my go to set.

The set you mentioned (Motion Pro 08-0411 Syncpro Carburetor Tuner), might work ok for the short term.  But, it doesn't look like it will last.  Maybe you're ok with that.


It is certainly better than nothing at all!

Cheers,

[firebane]

Thanks
Things are over the top here in that case

Prices starting over 150$ (Canadian)


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You can pickup a set of the 4 gauge vac sync tool from ebay for $50-60 US if you look around.

[Can550]

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[Can550]

Would appreciate to have experienced opinion


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[Can550]

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[Can550]

I have the ones from Saber Cycle.  They are well made and I have successfully used them for years.

I found this one on Amazon.ca what is the general opinion




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[flybox1]

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sounds like you need to do a valve adjustment, cam chain adjustment, and then a vac sync.

[Can550]

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sounds like you need to do a valve adjustment, cam chain adjustment, and then a vac sync.

Thanks flybox
I shall now adjust tappets/ valves and chain tensioner per manual and then get a set of vacuum gauges to sync carbs.

It feels like doing these two adjustments shall make difference how bike sounds ?


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[Can550]

On the same note,
(After carbs rebuild)turning choke is pretty hard it sort of locks in somewhere. Can't figure out how to fix it. Did some search and didn't come across any thread/ post.

When chocking, it's very hard to move up (used leverage of a screwdriver) from open position, bringing down to running position, feels like a spring resistance.



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[TwoTired]

Did you remove the carbs from the joiner plate?

Choke binding can happen if they didn't get aligned right on the joiner plate.


Did you remove the choke plates from the carbs?  If the plates didn't get put back in the same place they can bind in the bore.

Cheers,

[Can550]

Yes I am sure it/ plate was removed (as this job was done by someone) God I hope I don't have remove carbs ;(


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[Can550]

Sorry but if you are asking about flaps (butterfly looking plates) or the main plate on which all four carbs attach?

I'm not certain if flap/ plates were removed.


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[Can550]

But initially it was not hard like it was today, though there was some hesitation present before


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[Can550]

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sounds like you need to do a valve adjustment, cam chain adjustment, and then a vac sync.

Terribly sorry but should I do valve adjust then chain tensioner or otherwise ?


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[firebane]

Sorry but if you are asking about flaps (butterfly looking plates) or the main plate on which all four carbs attach?

I'm not certain if flap/ plates were removed.


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Looking at airbox side of your carbs there are little adjustment screws and tabs for each of the butterfly valves. If this are not seated correctly they will fight against one another and not function properly. Using a screwdriver to work them is also very bad and could cause twisting or bending of parts which should not.

And yes you should adjust the valves, tensioner then do a sync because all the internal mechanicals have to be functioning together to run properly and if they are not the synch process will not be accurate.

[flybox1]

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sounds like you need to do a valve adjustment, cam chain adjustment, and then a vac sync.

Terribly sorry but should I do valve adjust then chain tensioner or otherwise ?


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I prefer (on a cold engine) the cam chain adjustment, first, and then a valve adjustment.
These, and a good vacuum sync will quiet your engine.

[Can550]

Loosening the locknut of cam chain tensioner didn't change the screw/ stud at all. Does it mean it's on right spot or something else


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[firebane]

Loosening the locknut of cam chain tensioner didn't change the screw/ stud at all. Does it mean it's on right spot or something else


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There is a very specific way of setting the tensioner that needs to be followed. You can't just undo the nut and have it be correct.

Needs to be 15 degrees past TDC #1

[Can550]

Yes I did it 15 degree past TDC #1 as per manual. When the lob of spring is just past the line/ marking


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[firebane]

Yes I did it 15 degree past TDC #1 as per manual. When the lob of spring is just past the line/ marking


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Using a screwdriver and wrench can you undo the nut?

[Can550]

Undoing locknut wasn't a problem. It came loose but the screw inside the locknut (my understanding that it should move a bit itself) didn't move


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[flybox1]

@ 15deg past TDC
-undo the lock nut
-back out the retaining bolt so the cam chain plunger is free
-snug the retaining bolt back in to lock the plunger back in place.
-tighten down the lock nut.
done.


If the cam chain tensioner has never been serviced, it might be best to take out the three bolts, pull out the unit, and clean/grease it well.
Look for a depression in the plunger rod, and fix as necessary.
The plunger should move freely in the tensioner.  Old grease there can prevent it from 'tensioning' the cam chain as the plunger spring is kinda weak.