Topic: Way high RPM after carbs rebuild

[Can550]

Don't buy the Amazon gauges, you'll regret it if you do as those are the type you don't want, aquarium clamps instead of proper damping wheels.

Right
Wasn't really sold on idea of those but was still considering though


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[flybox1]

sorry...keep forgetting you are up north.

ebay canada   

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/1970-77-Honda-carb-carburetor-FLOAT-BOWL-GASKET-cb550-cb550f-cb500-k1-k2-k3-k4-/391579666557?hash=item5b2bf7887d:g:A-kAAOSwRLZT9nFT&vxp=mtr

whats more funny...is this is a seller near Seattle, WA USA 

[flybox1]

Don't buy the Amazon gauges, you'll regret it if you do as those are the type you don't want, aquarium clamps instead of proper damping wheels.

Right
Wasn't really sold on idea of those but was still considering though


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Ive had a similar set of gauges since 2008.   Always worked flawlessly.

[TwoTired]

Check the leaking bowl for a cracked stand pipe.   Fine cracks will make it weep.
More likely there is an issue with the float swing interference. Pin or side posts.

Are the float valve and seat new?


I'm not going to get #$%*y about gauges.  Get what you want.  I've had a similar set to the amazon type since 1975.    Had to rebuild them after twenty years for congealed grease inside.  Annoying, but no big deal for me.

The gauge quality isn't a big issue, imo.  You will use them infrequently, and as long as they all read the same when attached to a gang manifold, they will tell you what you want to know when connected to your bike.  You only need to check for uniformity, both the gauges and then the carb manifold taps.

Several have made their own manometers with some clear tubing, 4 jars, a board, and a colored viscous fluid.

The shop manual states they all must measure within 3.0 cm  HG.  So, "perfect" is not required.  But, approaching that will make the idle smoother.

Good luck!

[Can550]

A bit of forum search on float bowl O ring and two drops of clear nail polish, same O ring sat just fine. Put it back on carb and for last over 20 minutes it has not leaked.

Yes stand brass tube is clean and no crack or hairline fracture. All internal seals are brand new. When floats are raised and supported with a wedge, it doesn't leak. Just and overall check/ inspection of float mechanism seems alright.

All four headers are warm/ hot depending on how long it's running.

While bike vibrates though


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[flybox1]

Now that its not leaking, probably just needs a vac sync to settle it all down.
Wish you were closer.  We'd have this licked already....

[Can550]

Now that its not leaking, probably just needs a vac sync to settle it all down.
Wish you were closer.  We'd have this licked already....

I know
Distance for working on bike is much but knowledge you guys have shared, has benefitted me like from next door. Much appreciated.

I'm a bit confused with vibration though. It didn't vibrate before I adjusted

Valves
Ignition points
Cam shaft tensioner

Spark plugs aren't brand new (getting later today from Honda as they were on back order)




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[TwoTired]

Spark plugs aren't brand new (getting later today from Honda as they were on back order)

Take them out and look at the tips.  Some might be carbon fouled?

Cheers,

[flybox1]

The vac sync is like a baby's pacifier 

[Can550]

Spark Plugs what story do these tell
1,2,3,4 in order of posting
#4 was cleaned with shop towel (OCD) without remembering why I was taking photos



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[TwoTired]

All but the second one have unreliable spark, if they sparked.

The thick black deposits are carbon coating the center porcelain insulator.  The carbon can/will conduct spark energy away from the spark gap, making ignition iffy.

[firebane]

Bike seems to be running very rich.

[Can550]

I put all 4 brand new spark plugs from Honda (NGK DR7EA) D7EA weren't available and guy there said R are just fine. I guess actual observation shall start from this point as we do not know what PO had done with plugs (3 d7ea and 1 denso)

Started it but still vibration??

Just struggling to ensure bike needs nothing except "sync"

So far done
1- new engine oil and filter
2- new battery
3- fresh gas
4- new plugs
5- valves adjusted
6- ignition/ points adjusted
7- new element (under air filter)
8- original air filter cleaned
9- cam chain tensioner



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[TwoTired]

Didn't expect vibration with new plugs.

You say the vibration only happened after the valve adjust?  If so, recheck that.

Perhaps do a compression check.   
If ok, move on to the carb sync.

Did you solve the carb overflow issue?

[Can550]

Thanks TwoTired

I did adjust valves but my hunch is that ignition timing may not be right. Can that cause vibration ?

Yes I did solve #4 overflow issue and wrote back for all those who have been very helpful !

Amazed with so much knowledge/ experience available here.


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[TwoTired]

Yes, ignition issues can cause vibration.  But, i think you have an ignition failure, rather than just poor timing.  Won't hurt to check for gap and full closure ability of the points. Also check the contact surfaces for contamination/ loss of continuity.

Check the spark leads, and the plug caps.

One coil routes to 1-4 the other routes to 2-3 .

Cheers,

[Can550]

I have a brand new Honda complete plate with points and condensers, will put that on tomorrow. Should be simple swap, do these come pre adjusted ?

I had trimmed about 1/4" plug wire end and screwed in plug caps to firm contact.

Will search how to check plug caps for accuracy of resistance. Will report back.

I have started enjoying posting on forum than riding


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[my name is nobody]

Next time you're in Auto Zone, ask if they stock D7EA. I got some about a month ago for cheap. They stock the D8EA for the 750 as well.

You mention in another post of a choke problem. Might want to resolve any issues
with that and verify that all choke plates open/close properly and that there are
none stuck closed. Apologies if this has been covered already.

[flybox1]

That #2 plug is the only one colored nice.  The others are rich and yes, the carbon will compromise spark.
How old are those plugs?   Some of the corrosion/grime on them indicate they are less than fresh 
Any auto store should carry NGK D7EAs.

Redo the valve adjustment as suggested.
No, the points plate will need your adjustment.

[TwoTired]

I have a brand new Honda complete plate with points and condensers, will put that on tomorrow. Should be simple swap, do these come pre adjusted ?

This was tongue-in-cheek, right?  Such a kidder...

I had trimmed about 1/4" plug wire end and screwed in plug caps to firm contact.

That's good.  Be nice to verify with an ohm meter, the end to end resistance, plug cap connection to plug cap connection for each coil.
S/B ~ 25-35KΩ.

Have you looked at the spark system in the dark to see if there is visible arcing?

Cheers,

[Can550]

Learning!

I'll check ohms once I'm home but so far to report;

Re gapped points to 13
Re adjusted points 1-4 and 2-3 (test light comes ON just before F) if I get it right on F for 1-4, 2-3 go little off. Current setting is F 2-3 and little before F 1-4

Had fired up (earlier in the morning after all above done) hesitated to fire up but I felt quite reduced vibration than before.

To answer arcing, No I did not notice any arcing anywhere when tank was off.

Hope I'm doing right

Cheers


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[firebane]

Learning!

I'll check ohms once I'm home but so far to report;

Re gapped points to 13
Re adjusted points 1-4 and 2-3 (test light comes ON just before F) if I get it right on F for 1-4, 2-3 go little off. Current setting is F 2-3 and little before F 1-4

Had fired up (earlier in the morning after all above done) hesitated to fire up but I felt quite reduced vibration than before.

To answer arcing, No I did not notice any arcing anywhere when tank was off.

Hope I'm doing right

Cheers


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Timing should be spot on. 1-4 should not affect 2-3 and if it is then there is another issue. The adjustments for 1-4 and 2-3 are different.

[Can550]

Got it
Will re adjust to be spot on F

Cylinder 2 (header) is noticeably hotter than rest of 3 


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[TwoTired]

Probably time to vacuum sync.

I recommend that since #2 seems to be working well, use that as a master, and sync the other three to it.  Don't adjust #2 vacuum level.  If it changes during sync, use the new level as a reference for the others.  You'll probably be readjusting the idle knob during the vacuum sync, and this too will change the vacuum reference on #2.

Cheers,

[Can550]

Got home, oops (got to garage) and (think) fixed timing. Will post this and go in (before old lady gets on my case). Pls advise if correct (timing)!

Oh and is it normal for battery voltage drop with 15-20 minutes of test lamp and ignition ON while setting timing? Couldn't crank with starter motor and voltmeter shows 11.68 volts. Kick started ok




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